surface saver for back blade?

sheepfarmer · Nov 29, 2015

http://polyurethanesnowplowblades.com/ATV_Snow_Plow_Blades.html

Anyone try anything like these on their tractor? The problem I am trying to solve is that there is now a concrete "alley" between two of my barns that has had the concrete carefully sloped to carry water away from the two barns AND from a third barn that forms the end of the alley. The concrete is an asymetrical V shape over most of its length to do this. The alley is about 10 feet wide, 48 feet long, and my blade is 6 feet, so the sharp corners of either bucket or blade are likely to gouge into the concrete. I was planning to blow snow out of it , but the bigger problem is that snow from two roofs slides off into it in a sodden or frozen pile, no way will any of that blow anywhere. So if I open a gate I can back the Bota in there and scrape it out...maybe. But I don't like the idea of gouging up the concrete, so these sounded helpful. Do they work, or alternative suggestions?

North Idaho Wolfman · Nov 29, 2015

Yep they work great.

Another option is a hard rubber blade edge, I've seen edges made from industrial tires.

They also have poly blade attachments for your loader too.

Diydave · Nov 30, 2015

I have made many, from plastic boards, just take tour steel edge off, and use it as a template to drill the mounting holes. Drill 2 sets of holes, and you can flip it, when it wears down one edge...

D2Cat · Nov 30, 2015

Here's some ideas that might help. Scale down some of these ideas to something practical for you. Might get a handy neighbor to do some fabricating.

http://www.wenzelconstruction.com/scrapers.html

sheepfarmer · Nov 30, 2015

Diydave said:
I have made many, from plastic boards, just take tour steel edge off, and use it as a template to drill the mounting holes. Drill 2 sets of holes, and you can flip it, when it wears down one edge...

Plastic boards?

would undoubtedly be cheaper but not sure what you mean...

sheepfarmer · Nov 30, 2015

Thanks guys! I'll look into the tire idea. Probably the fastest would be the ready made one, but I like to save a buck when I can.

ShaunRH · Nov 30, 2015

sheepfarmer said:
Plastic boards? would undoubtedly be cheaper but not sure what you mean...

He might be talking about the amalgam PVC decking boards (Trex, etc.). They are common in 1"x6" and I have my deck here in CA built out of them. They would make a decent wear edge and as you wear it down, just flip and use the other side. I'd guess one edge might last a snow season. They are pretty cheap, about $15 a 12' board out here. That's 4 edges for a 6' blade.

Diydave · Nov 30, 2015

ShaunRH said:
He might be talking about the amalgam PVC decking boards (Trex, etc.). They are common in 1"x6" and I have my deck here in CA built out of them. They would make a decent wear edge and as you wear it down, just flip and use the other side. I'd guess one edge might last a snow season. They are pretty cheap, about $15 a 12' board out here. That's 4 edges for a 6' blade.

Yep, that, and some others. I got some white nylon ones, that were used at a truss building plant, for next to nothing, just have to pull an occasional nail or screw out, before cutting or planing with regular woodworking tools. Trex and some of the recycled milk jug boards like they make park benches out of work good, too. I do raid dumpsters, for such like...

bxray · Nov 30, 2015

You can get these free on the freeway.

hitechredneck · Nov 30, 2015

bxray said:
You can get these free on the freeway.

How's that?

Sent from my LG-V410 using Tapatalk

85Hokie · Nov 30, 2015

ShaunRH said:
He might be talking about the amalgam PVC decking boards (Trex, etc.). They are common in 1"x6" and I have my deck here in CA built out of them. They would make a decent wear edge and as you wear it down, just flip and use the other side. I'd guess one edge might last a snow season. They are pretty cheap, about $15 a 12' board out here. That's 4 edges for a 6' blade.

Along with the boards, the 2" PVC pipe works well too. Cheap - split it, tap it on, and go! After it cracks in the cold - hopefully the cold will be gone!

D2Cat · Nov 30, 2015

In this situation the PVC pipe will not conform to the angled concrete the lady sheepfarmer mentioned! Has to be something flexible or already shaped as required.

sheepfarmer · Nov 30, 2015

Flexible would be good...I did think about the pvc pipe because I think someone mentioned it to me last fall as I was learning how to gouge up the grass with my new back blade

, but I lack the tools to cut the pipe longitudinally. (More tools needed obviously!

) at least the back blade already has holes and bolts in it, so some kind of softer edge could be easily attached. Ideally it would be sturdy enough to do the rest of the plowing too.

Thanks everyone, those are all good ideas.

85Hokie · Dec 1, 2015

D2Cat said:
In this situation the PVC pipe will not conform to the angled concrete the lady sheepfarmer mentioned! Has to be something flexible or already shaped as required.

I was not suggesting the pipe to conform to the :

"The concrete is an asymetrical V shape over most of its length to do this. The alley is about 10 feet wide, 48 feet long, and my blade is 6 feet,"

Nor will the trek conform, all plastic based materials will "shatter" under extreme cold or abuse. Now if you cut the trex first to the desired tilt......it might work, but to wear it to that point would be ....

However, using the 3 point blade and turning the blade at a desired angle to pull ( or push ) the snow and using the correct pitch of the adjustable leg of the 3 point, the angle can be matched either peaked at the top or peaked at the bottom - depend on horz slope of the camber/crown of the concrete. Now if she wants to hit it at 90 degrees then neither will work well.

Now cutting the PVC pipe is a PITA - been there done that on several occasions, table saw and circular saw both do it, both are not exactly fun and can be rather dangerous if not prepared for correctly.

The rubber would be the cats lick, the half tires was a really neat invention!

Sheepfarmer, do you have any "old" rubber mats that your horse stand on or travel on? I have used those too for various things, it too is tough to cut - but would bend to any contour that might pop up on the driveway! And they could be bolts to the cutting edge of the blade with a little creativity.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/rubber-mat-black-4-ft-x-6-ft

alansz400 · Dec 1, 2015

I used a piece of 1 inch thick rubber belting. I bought a roll of it years ago and used the circular saw with a wood blade to cut it. It was a rough and smelly job. The roll is 3 feet wide and about 15 feet long so I should have a lifetime supply.

85Hokie · Dec 1, 2015

alansz400 said:
I used a piece of 1 inch thick rubber belting. I bought a roll of it years ago and used the circular saw with a wood blade to cut it. It was a rough and smelly job. The roll is 3 feet wide and about 15 feet long so I should have a lifetime supply.

Sounds like you have a perfect solution!

Man I remember that smelly job of cutting rubber - I had to cut 15" radial tires around the outside edge when I worked commercial construction. Used a jig saw and a rather good couple of blades to cut those tires.

.....5 straight days of cutting rubber........they were bases for the orange barrels for road side barriers.

alansz400 · Dec 1, 2015

Good thing my neighbors know to wait to see flames before calling the fire dept. I had the whole back yard filled with smoke. The sawsall might have been a better tool for that job.

D2Cat · Dec 1, 2015

Sheepfarmer, might ask the operator who helps you, if he has any old baler belts. They would work fine. They come in various widths from 4-12" but thickness are all the same, about 3/8". Would be easy for you to cut and drill holes in, and would last probably several years scraping manure/snow.

coachgeo · Dec 1, 2015

I'ld make two assuming there is a barn on each side of the path.

On First one; make it so when blade is horizontal, bottom edge of plastic/rubber (both?) sits at proper angle to push outside of path toward the center. Hit path on one side, turn around, then hit the other side going back

Now swap the edge out to second one.

On second; when blade is horizontal make the edge of plastic/rubber (both?) in a V shape to fit inside V of the path. With this drive right down center and push it all out.

use Stainless fasteners greased up so not so hard to swap the pieces out.

later when it fits the budget get a 4' or 5' blade (or cut an old one down) and then you can use only first one described above. No need to swap things out. two passes instead of three as well.

bxray · Dec 1, 2015

Whoops!
Not all my words made it in that post.
I use a tire throw/pelt from a truck.

You can get it free on a freeway!

Ray

surface saver for back blade?

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