Blowing white smoke

[Bonaro]

I bought an old L275 and I'm trying to bring it back. I only paid $600 for the tractor with FEL so I can spend a bit and not get hurt.

The tractor was very rough and the previous owner let it freeze up which pushed out a couple freeze plugs. I split the tractor and replaced the freeze plug behind the front cover and one other on the starter side and it runs! I have been using this tractor lightly for a year since with no real problems.

Recently I flushed out the cooling system, tested the thermostat, refilled with antifreeze and have used it for about 6 hours... Normally it smokes a bit and misses when cold then smooths out after 10-15 minutes. The last time I used it it smoked white a LOT, was noticeably louder and never smoothed out. It was low on power and missed. The smoke seemed to be fuel because of soot on the undercarriage near the outlet and the smoke lingered in the air. There was black liquid oozing from the crack in the exhaust manifold
I was guessing a drippy or plugged injector.

At a high idle I cracked the injector lines and #2 was not firing. #2 exh manifold port was colder than 1 and 3. I pulled all the injectors for tear down and cleaning. Then I held the kill valve down and cranked the engine, fluid sprayed out of #2...tasted like antifreeze

The injectors are worn and show some water damage but are probably usable. I am now looking at a head gasket or possibly a cracked head.

It's spring and I have work to do so I am going to put the injectors back in, add a bunch of Stop Leak and run it... then tear it down this winter for a proper fix.

My question is: with this age and history, what are the odds between finding a blown head gasket or a cracked head?
Just trying to prepare myself....

 

[lugbolt]

if coolant is in #2 cylinder, you likely have at least two problems. One, a coolant leak (obviously) into the #2 cylinder. Two, bent rod causing low compression on #2 cylinder.

 

[Bonaro]

if coolant is in #2 cylinder, you likely have at least two problems. One, a coolant leak (obviously) into the #2 cylinder. Two, bent rod causing low compression on #2 cylinder.

Not sure about the bent rod, it never hydro locked (to my knowledge)

Are these heads weak?

 

[Fladogman]

Sounds like a blown head gasket to me. We had that happen to use last summer

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

 

[Roadworthy]

I would not use the Stop Leak. It's possible to cause more problems than it cures. You may have a bad head gasket but given the freezing issue it could just as easily (and probably more likely) be a cracked head. Plan for the worst and hope for the best.

 

[Jim L.]

My question is: with this age and history, what are the odds between finding a blown head gasket or a cracked head?

Good odds either way.

If it is the gasket, and keep running it, it will crack the head.

I would find out if I could get a head, and how many dollars before making a decision to continue as is.

If the head has cracked, temperature control is lost and heat will tear up what is left.

Antifreeze is leaking. If it accumulates enough in the cylinder, on start antifreeze coolant will not compress and things will get bent.

I realize the normal inclination to keep going and push through. Most likely it will not make it through summer, and will add a bunch of things to fix, if repairable at that point.

 

[Bonaro]

Ok, I tore down and cleaned the injectors then reinstalled in order. I bled them off and restarted. It ran fair for a few minutes then started missing as it warmed up. #2 was still not firing. About 5 minutes in, it is warming up and missing and smoking white. I was about to shut down and move the #2 injector to another hole to isolate when I reached over and squeezed the radiator hose, pretty firm. I opened the radiator cap, lots of pressure came out and the motor immediately smoothed out and ran fine, smoke stopped. No water in the oil

I am about 80% sure this is a head gasket. Im thinking a cracked head would probably not pressurize so quickly

 

[Bonaro]

I would not use the Stop Leak. It's possible to cause more problems than it cures. more likely) be a cracked head.

Why would stop leak cause more problems? If I can stop or slow the leak and run with the cap open, wouldn't it be good so long as I check the coolant often?

 

[GeoHorn]

Stop Leak will congregate at the leak and exacerbate a “hot spot” and can lead to further damage. It’s only a temporary fix.... and a hazardous one at that, intended for leaks in radiators not in heads or blocks.

 

[D2Cat]

Not sure why you balk at pulling the head and fixing it the right way. You can also have the head magnafluxed to be sure it's not cracked.

You've done a lot of work to it, pulling the head is not a big complicated job.

 

[Bonaro]

Not sure why you balk at pulling the head and fixing it the right way. You can also have the head magnafluxed to be sure it's not cracked.

You've done a lot of work to it, pulling the head is not a big complicated job.

Couple reasons....i don't have access to a head if its cracked so it would be out of service for about 2 weeks or more.
I have an excavator coming this weekend and I'm clearing a spot for a new shop...really need that tractor now.

I'm not afraid to tear it down to any level but right now is a really bad time

 

[rentthis]

Couple reasons....i don't have access to a head if its cracked so it would be out of service for about 2 weeks or more.
I have an excavator coming this weekend and I'm clearing a spot for a new shop...really need that tractor now.

I'm not afraid to tear it down to any level but right now is a really bad time

Considering the potential damage you could do running your tractor, it might do you well to rent a tractor for your immediate needs.

 

[torch]

I'd change the head gasket. If the head is cracked, and if a replacement is not available, then before I gave up and scrapped the motor I'd try CRC brand "Block Seal". Use is more involved than most leak sealants that are just added to the coolant, but it's also more likely to work -- if you follow the directions properly.

You have to flush the coolant out with plain water thoroughly; it won't bond to the metal in the presence of coolant. (After it's set then you drain the system and can fill with coolant.) An old mechanic put me onto this stuff years ago and I've used it quite successfully twice now.

 

[Bonaro]

I added stop leak but it still has issues. Put some load on the motor and she wanted to overheat.
I shut it down and ordered a full gasket set, thermostat and new exhaust manifold. $189 total and it will be here Tuesday.
I will flush the system and tear it down while the parts are in transit...gonna be busy for a while

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Cracked head is more common than a blown head gasket.

 

[torch]

I added stop leak but it still has issues.

Most "stop leak" products are virtually snake oil. They might stop a small external leak but don't stand a chance against compression pressure.

CRC's "Block Seal" is the only product that I am aware of that might work here.

 

[GeoHorn]

Stop Leak will congregate at the leak and exacerbate a hot spot and can lead to further damage. ....

I added stop leak but it still has issues. Put some load on the motor and she wanted to overheat.:

Hmmnnn......

 

[thepumpguysc]

Arent u supposed to use that stuff only after taking out the thermostat.??
I could see it clogging a thermostat..{overheat}

 

[Bonaro]

Cracked head is more common than a blown head gasket.

Unfortunately...you are correct.

I pulled the head tonight. pretty simple except the fuel tank flange stuck out .5" too far and wouldnt allow the head to clear. I had to pull the (full) fuel tank off but I got it.

I found one spot on the head gasket that was suspicious but there is definately a crack in the head. It extends from the valve seat and runs over to a freaking hillbilly weld that some previous abuser put on.
I am going to talk to my machinist tomorrow but I think this one is spent

 

[Bonaro]

Anyone have a decent used head laying around for a L 275 D1302-A?