Binder chain question

[DocGP]

OK, stupid rookie question, but I have not transported larger tractors for many miles. I have stepped up to the MX5100 with the BH92 backhoe. Will be hauling it 400 miles about 3-4 times per summer. Have the binder chains and and 4 load binders, but on the bottom of the back of the hoe, there are too tie down loops in the metal. Is it OK to drop the hooks in the loops, or should one run the chain through the opening and back and hook it on itself?

Sorry, I know that is probably a dumb question, but is the hood stout enough to hold it alone like that? Any other recommendations for longer haul with the tractor loaded would be appreciated. I have a chain and binder for each corner and one of the big (3") nylon straps for the bucket.

Thanks
Doc

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Depends on which hook the chain has.
Is it a slip hook? if so hook them too the loop.

or a grab hook? if so then loop the chain and tie back on it's self.

 

[DocGP]

Yep, Wolfman, second one would be it. Grade 70 (?) so I will double it up and hook it to itself.

Thanks
Doc

 

[85Hokie]

Doc hit it - ALWAYS bind it back on the chain never on the "hook"

 

[Stubbyie]

I'll offer this for the what-it's-worth dept, realizing we all have different life experiences.

I grew up with the eccentric-type handle-flip-down type load binder and didn't know any better for the first few decades.

Was using cheater to bind down a small dozer and the cheater slipped out of my greasy gloves. When the handle flipped up the cheater went cart-wheeling through the air and narrowly missed my spoues's head. It would have killed her stone dead cold.

Threw every one of that type over the cliff and bought all new replacement ratchet-type binders. Been very pleased with the results over the last ten years or so. Since then been haunting garage, tag, and estate sales and find all brands for $5 to $15. Haven't had one break yet. Keep the threaded ends greased.

Spouse very important to me in this life and perfer her alive.

Be safe.

Please post back your ongoing experiences so we may all learn.

 

[philztoy]

I second the ratchet binders. Crank the chains down really tight and then tighten them again. I have no idea how but those chains get sloppy loose sometimes even when you crank them down really really hard.

I noticed you talked about using a strap too. I stay totally away from straps when transporting tractors. I have had heavy duty double layer 4 inch straps cut through pretty fast when tensioned against the wrong piece of seemingly innocuous metal. Save the straps for motorcycle transport.

Also, don't forget to load with ample weight on the tongue. I am not saying why I know this, but 6000 pounds of tractor will wag your truck around like a toy if it is loaded wrong.

 

[Lil Foot]

I have both ratchet & lever load binders, & occasionally I'd find a lever type had released itself allowing the chain to slacken. (I check often) While re-tightening one of these at a truck stop, a trucker told me to tie the lever in the closed position with anything I had handy- bungee, duct tape, whatever. Since then, I wind a heavy bungee around the lever (or duct tape in an emergency) and I have never had one come loose since. I swap out the lever type as I get more ratchet types, and will someday use only ratchets.

 

[ShaunRH]

You can use the lever type if they have the 'eye' in the end of the lever and you zip tie it back to the chain. I've never seen one come loose like that, however, the story of launching the cheater pipe is actually more common than not and why I'm leery of the lever type. I use them but keep everyone away when tightening and stay out of the line of fire of them. Healthy respect of the equipment. I love the ratchet binders but they are more work to fasten up and take down, it's just a time loss thing so if you have the time, use ratchets.

 

[BadDog]

When I was hauling my rock crawler buggy all over the SW US, I used over center "boomers" to quickly take up chains on the rear axle. Not going for locked down load with a extra lever and straining for that last little bit, just take out the slack. Each had a piece of wire twisted through the eye of the handle, and that was used to tie them shut. Doesn't have to be particularly strong, they pop open only when they get slack due to movement. The final piece was 2 chains on the front using ratchet binders. They took all the slack out of the system. Everything was sized and fitted for the purpose, and my son and I together could easily be loaded and rolling in well under 10 minutes most of the time.

We eventually switched to axle straps with wear sleeves and ratchets designed specifically for vehicle transport. Much lighter and easier to install in far less time, particularly when I was alone. On my own I could be rolling in about 5 minutes with the straps. But you do have to be careful where you tie, and what it might work against. We never lost or damaged a strap, or even the Kevlar wear sleeves, but it is something you have to be aware of and inspect.

In both cases we always stopped after 10 minutes or so, or after encountering our first "shake it out", or in any case before pulling onto a main road. Check trailer connections, tires, tie downs, final check for loose stuff left in the buggy, etc; then we never had a single OH SHEIT!!!" moment in all those miles.

 

[Daren Todd]

Company I used to work for used the break over binders. Had a kid working with me, and started to stand over the binder when he went to break it loose. I caught it before he let it loose. Had him stand off the side, then I purposefully let go of the the cheater pipe when I broke them loose. Launched the pipe 60ft out into the woods and ping ponged off some trees. Pointed out to him that, that could have been his face He got the point

I personally use the ratchet binders. Seen to many people get hurt by the others. Always check your load like others have stated, within ten minutes of leaving. I'll usually load up, drive to the truck stop. Grab a coke and check my load and trailer.

 

[Tooljunkie]

Kubota i used to haul had two grab hooks pinned to loader frame in front. Two chains to deck,reverse tractor to snug them up and two ratchets for rear of tractor. 60 miles of rough gravel roads and they hold fast.
Check your local regulations, they may require loader and backhoe buckets secured to deck also.
Check your load at every stop.

 

[Orange Turbo]

Used binders for over 45 years, can't remember ever having any issues.
As stated above, just pull down good and snug, wire handle down, Check after a few miles, retighten and carry-on, I have 4-5 of the screw type and never use them. I've seen people using l-o-n-g pipe to tighten and still could hardly pull them down They do not have to be that tight. That's when you create a danger.
Just my 2-cents....

 

[85Hokie]

Company I used to work for used the break over binders. Had a kid working with me, and started to stand over the binder when he went to break it loose. I caught it before he let it loose. Had him stand off the side, then I purposefully let go of the the cheater pipe when I broke them loose. Launched the pipe 60ft out into the woods and ping ponged off some trees. Pointed out to him that, that could have been his face He got the point

I personally use the ratchet binders. Seen to many people get hurt by the others. Always check your load like others have stated, within ten minutes of leaving. I'll usually load up, drive to the truck stop. Grab a coke and check my load and trailer.

Aint it funny how no matter how tight you get them, a few bounces around of the tractor on the trailer and there is always room for a little more tension!

 

[Orange Turbo]

I've found cross tie down works the best.... (rt front to left side of trailer)
left front to rt side of trailer and the same on back.

 

[Bulldog]

Don't know about your area but Ga. requires a 5th chain and binder for the BH bucket. My thought is that if 4 don't hold it one more ain't going to make a difference but the DOT seems to think different.

 

[Daren Todd]

DOT actually requires four on the unit. And a minimum of one on any attachment. So, one for the fel. And a minimum of one hooked to anything on the back. If it's a back hoe, or trackhoe, then the boom needs to be lowered with the bucket secured by chain and binder as well. They get pretty finicky about crossed chains as also. If they cross to the opposite side, they cannot contact each other and hold tension on another chain. There theory is if one loosens, then the other will loosen as well. Crossed chains touching is a fast way to get pulled over and ticketed.

 

[Tallahassee Kubota Man]

I'm trying to run down the Florida regs on load securement. They don't make it easy. Anyone have a link to the USDOT regs? What little I've found seems to indicate the rules apply to cargo weights of 10,000 lbs + and that those rules may apply to cargo less than that. My max tractor weight is around 8,500 lbs. Right now I use 2-3 straps each rated at 6,600 working strength.
Any help appreciated.

 

[Bulldog]

From what I have found regulation 393.128 will apply to loads under 10K. Minimum requirement is 1 strap in front and 1 in the rear.

 

[Tallahassee Kubota Man]

Thanks Bulldog, looks like I'm meeting the Federal regs. I would think if I meet theirs I would meet the state's....we'll see. Waiting for response from FDOT Motor Carrier Compliance.

 

[sheepfarmer]

Well I just watched the Ingersoll and the Kubota go down the road on the dealer's rig, not optimally chained down as best I can tell from the posts above. Worse than sending your kid off to school the first time. Young man that was sent to haul it started out with the light Ingersoll in the front and the heavy tractor way behind the axles, which seemed like a good way to lift the hitch off. Best I could do was to get him to take the Ingersoll off and put the kubota on first so the weight of the big loaded tires was over the wheels on the trailer rather than hanging off the back end of the trailer which sloped down. He was going to just put a chain over the back of the bucket and I got him to run it through the tube on the loader instead. Hate to have the paint dinged up, but better that than mashing the quick attach levers. He didn't have a clevis he was supposed to attach to the draw bar, and had the second chain draped over the 3 pt hitch which was up but not locked . I lowered it and he said well sometimes they ran it through the support arms for the lower links. I said it will bend these, how about the axles, he said the chain wasn't long enough, and we had a conversation along the lines of he knew all about it, he had driven semis, and the dealer would be responsible for any damage, and my saying that if I let him go down the drive and he got hurt I was at least morally responsible. By now the 3 pt was resting on the snow blower on the Ingersoll. I hope it made it. I called the dealer and he said it would be fine chained to the lower links. At the time I didn't remember all of the suggestions above, and it is hard to argue from a position of someone who has never done it before, it just didn't look safe to me. So fingers crossed...