Recent content by Captain13

I did look more into your problem and it seems that you might be on to something with how it is shut down. From what I read, it allows the engine to burn off excess fuel before it stops. Now that was on a Kawasaki engine but still may be applicable to your situation. Glad everything was...

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/906943/Kubota-Gr2020g.html?page=90#manual Page 90. Looks like it’s on a pigtail at the back/top of the engine where the hood opens.

I buy my LEDs from a company called Headlight Revolution. You can call and talk to their tech guys and they will usually be able to give you some good advice. My truck LEDs operate on the CANBUS system that controls everything on the truck. They are the only place I have found that has the...

If raw fuel is running in the cylinder then you could get cylinder wash down. I don’t know how hard it is to access the bowl On that engine. I had this happen on my 19 horse Honda powered splitter. It was easy to get the bowl off. There was crud in the bowl and I ended up pulling the carb to...

Could the carb float needle/seat possibly have some dirt in it causing it to flood on startup when hot? Sounds like it’s flooding when you shut it down. Like gas is continuing to seep past the needle valve when you shut down and the bowl is most likely full. Or maybe the float is sticking...

I do mine on the ZT and the RFM twice a season. I use the Woods method using a flap disk. Smooth the top wedge and then square the cutting edge off (instead of sharpening the cutting edge) to a width of about 1/16 inches. The blades stay sharp longer and require less metal to be removed...

i still keep a plug kit on my bike just to get me to a place where I can get a permanent repair or a new tire. Most places won’t even patch a motorcycle tire at all.

I didn’t have to replace the blade safety switch. There was a debris build up between the lever and the swictch which was not allowing the switch to make/break. Of course, the switch tested ok because I pushed the lever by hand when I tested it. Then I noticed the debris, blew it out and all...

No problem. Lots of solutions being discussed here. Hard to keep up. As I said in my first post, my issue was a safety switch. The switch was good, but debris wouldn’t allow the switch to operate properly. A lot of thing to check when there is a problem on the zero turn mowers. Have a good day.

You are right. I was thinking that the 990 had multiple widths like the PRD series.. I have the PRD8400 which they just discontinued. I really like it. The last Woods RFM 60 I had lasted over 20 years and I just sold it to my brother in law. Great mower. He may want to check out the TK series.

I read it to mean he was looking for a low voltage relay. Next to the last sentence.

Check out the Woods 990. Great RFM, rear discharge.

I took my old one to Napa and they had a replacement in stock.

Have you checked all the fuses? Go to this post: https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/40-amp-fuse-fusible-link-keeps-blowing.574/ it has the wiring diagrams for the ZD21. May it will help.

The safety switches may test ok but something may be preventing the micro switch lever from fully operating the switch. On my ZD21 it was the blade engage lever safety switch. Debris had built up on between the silver switch lever and the switch itself causing the switch not to work right...