Need advice from lumberjacks/lumberjills

[Trapper Bob]

I have a large elm to bring down. It’s growing where the new shop will be erected.

Right is East, Left is West

Right is South, Left us North
I’m torn between removing some limbs before dropping it or all at 1 time. The limbs are just high enough to need a platform of some type, if cutting before the tree is down.
What direction do you think it will fall? How would you bring it down? The chicken coup will be raised anyway, so potential damage is of no consequence, other than just in the way.
The Northwoods guys have impressed me with some of their work, how would you do it? I have 2 saws, plenty of chain, tractor, & could draft a little help.

 

[Trimley]

I would take the East, West, and North limb off, then fall it South

 

[Captain13]

I would say it would would fall to the east or south without help. A tractor will help guide it but I have seen trees that size drag a tractor and fall away from the direction of pull.

Look on Youtube for videos of falling a tree using a hydraulic jack. That will give you a good idea of how to control the direction of fall without depending on a movable object as an anchor point for a chain or winch.

 

[will721]

The direction it falls is dependent on how its cut. If you were to cut it straight I'd say it would likely fall south perhaps slightly west judging by what looks to be the majority of mass. Assuming that it doesn't pivot on itself.

The key is to control the drop. You can remove limbs to bias weight in the direction you want it to drop. But as long as they don't hinder your escape path and there are no obstacles you want ro prevent from damaging it isn't 100% necessary. If it were me, assuming its a healthy tree, I'd just cut a wedge on the south side, straight cut from the north and use a felling wedge to force it to fall that way. Controlled drops are safe drops.

I'm not a professional though, just dropped quite a bit of timber in my time.

 

[MapleLeafFarmer]

I find it hard to give rec. based on these photos.

I sense your skill level as a faller is low as seems you be thinking of bringing it down in 1 piece so recommending a climb and work your way down strategy out of the question.

so based on limited info. initial reaction would be recommend you consider to take each of the 4 main limbs individually from a gnd position leaving the main stock at what looks like the 5' level intact for the last cut at ground level

 

[D2Cat]

That would be a good tree to work down with the LimbHog! One limb at a time, but I'm not driving down there for the practice

!

 

[ajschnitzelbank]

I watched a lot of videos on YouTube giving bad advice before I took a tree felling / chainsaw safety course called Game Of Logging. Since being schooled there, this is the best tree felling video I’ve seen:

Good luck!

 

[rc51stierhoff]

Good morning. That looks like a fun couple of days. I have no way of knowing. Your skill and experience, but since their was question (I am assuming there is some hesitation…which is always good in this type of thing)…i am not a husquvarna owner, but I am a fan of some of their resources…

I’d start with their academy page and a pot of coffee before I’d get too happy with the throttle. (Check out their resources)

How to make a felling cut – Husqvarna Chainsaw Academy

Step-by-step guides, animations and videos of the most common felling methods – and which one to use for smaller, medium-sized and larger trees.

chainsawacademy.husqvarna.com

IMO it’s hard to give anyone much advice via a picture on a task that is very dangerous to the task doer.

Couple things I would mention:

Is there anything wrong with the tree? Are you Sure no widow maker limbs overhead? They come down in a hurry.

It looks like not much around except the coop….so that good for dropping limbs not in range of the coup, but that is also going to put eight to the limbs over the coup when you remove the others…so I’d think about that before dropping the limbs vs cutting once.

As looks not much around is there anything to achieve some cable to winch it? I would not winch anything that size to your vehicle / tractor unless you really like trebuchets. The if it goes wrong a tree that size wins.

Are you familiar with the elm in your area? I am a good bit east of you, and I have some elms that disused didn’t get…and at least ours have a grain that is sort of twisted, as as a result they like to twist to some extent when cutting…even when straight…beautiful grain, not enjoyable to split, but burns hotter than the btu tables would have you believe…I don’t know how other elms are but I know the ones around me on my hillside aren’t much fun until they are on the ground.

Even if you cut that once at the base to fell it, you are going to have a lot of tension and dangerous cuts on the limbs, even once it is dropped. Take your time, don’t get in a rush, stop and reassess…sooner or later it’s going to want to roll.

Again since you asked…if you don’t feel comfortable doing your self, call a service and watch and learn. A tree like that can be overwhelming…I’d prioritize personal safety vs paying someone if it doesnt feel comfortable (risk vs reward). But to each their own…I mean no disrespect. Just looking at the size I would not encourage someone to do that themselves to learn on without a pro advising.

Good luck. Keep us posted. Be careful.

 

[mikester]

I have a large elm to bring down. It’s growing where the new shop will be erected.
View attachment 115833
Right is East, Left is West
View attachment 115834
Right is South, Left us North
I’m torn between removing some limbs before dropping it or all at 1 time. The limbs are just high enough to need a platform of some type, if cutting before the tree is down.
What direction do you think it will fall? How would you bring it down? The chicken coup will be raised anyway, so potential damage is of no consequence, other than just in the way.
The Northwoods guys have impressed me with some of their work, how would you do it? I have 2 saws, plenty of chain, tractor, & could draft a little help.

The best advice I can give you is top up your life insurance. The second best advice is to hire an arborist.

Elm trees have a reputation as widow makers even for experienced people.

 

[Trapper Bob]

Thank you for the replies. You are right, I’m not a professional, but did clear 73 acres of medium & heavy forest (NRCS measurements) with only 1 ER visit & that was a pencil thin 3’ locust tree (another story).
The Husqvarna video is great, that guy is a professional.
This Elm has the largest base, oval shaped, all of 4’ the long way, of any tree I’ve put down. It is very old & prob hollow in the center.
I may chain the tractor to a limb to guide it down, but not to the tree. I understand physics. I also understand it is hard to judge the tree by 2 pictures. I asked the question because I wanted opinions.
I’m inclined to take the W limb over the coup first. The N limb may go N when I make that plunge cut. There appears to be a seam that goes down both sides of the trunk that makes me wonder if it will try to separate. I think the N limb needs to go second to eliminate that possibility. The remaining mass will take the tree S & maybe a little E. I do have a JD 750 bulldozer on the property that I could utilize. I’ll talk to the owner & see what he thinks. I’d like to get the tree on the ground, then cut it up.
The tree will come down Thanksgiving weekend. I’ll check my life ins. policy. Hmmm, it was the wife who suggested taking those trees down & putting the shop there.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

curious.. what are you going to do with the tree when it's on the ground ?
if you're not going to use as YOUR firewood, post ad 'free elm tree firewood'. Let someone else cut it down, buck it, and it's gone. I've done did that a few times.
If for you, you could rent a 'manlift', to safely cut some of the higher branches.
options, lots of options but choose SAFETY over saving a dollar or two.

 

[Treckerzeug]

The only good advice for this tree can be
hire a specialist with
a heavy tractor with a cable winch with a cable double as long as the height of the tree

 

[mikester]

curious.. what are you going to do with the tree when it's on the ground ?
if you're not going to use as YOUR firewood, post ad 'free elm tree firewood'. Let someone else cut it down, buck it, and it's gone. I've done did that a few times.
If for you, you could rent a 'manlift', to safely cut some of the higher branches.
options, lots of options but choose SAFETY over saving a dollar or two.

Read this before taking your own advice

Homeowner Liability for a Home Contractor's Injury | Axess Law

Injuries happen. Slips, trips, and falls are an everyday occurrence. Here's a dilemma for you: is a homeowner liable for a contractor's injury?

www.axesslaw.com

"FREE" labour can cost you your life savings, future earnings, and property.

FYI YOU are responsible for Workman's Comp if someone gets injured on your property and you didn't demand proof of WSIB coverage from your FREE labour.

Part of the cost of hiring a professional arborist is THEY take on the headaches and costs of having GCL insurance and WSIB coverage. The cost of business insurance these days has gone insane.

 

[Trapper Bob]

curious.. what are you going to do with the tree when it's on the ground ?
if you're not going to use as YOUR firewood, post ad 'free elm tree firewood'. Let someone else cut it down, buck it, and it's gone. I've done did that a few times.
If for you, you could rent a 'manlift', to safely cut some of the higher branches.
options, lots of options but choose SAFETY over saving a dollar or two.

All the people who burn wood in my neighborhood turn their noses up at Elm wood. They want Oak, Maple, Hedge, Hackberry, the “real hardwoods” (their words, not mine). The neighbors around the farm want some wood from the brush piles I already have on the ground (which is extensive). I did pull out the easy wood as I was cutting, & will go back for more before I burn the piles.
I preach Think, Plan, Act at work. Safety is a big part of that.

 

[SAR Tracker]

Hook a cable to it up as high as you can, then the other end to the dozer. Give it a pull to see if indeed it is hollow, and will come down without a saw. If not, then resort to plan B (saw, cut, etc).

 

[jimh406]

I think you'd be better off paying an experienced local logger to fall it. I don't think it would cost much.

 

[jaxs]

I think you'd be better off paying an experienced local logger to fall it. I don't think it would cost much.

That's my take. Do something you specialize in to pay the logger.

 

[Tarmy]

Interesting video. That guy sure has a dull chain…

I worked for a tree service many moons ago. about 1/3 of the tree work we did was removing home owner felling from some of their garages or homes! I cut one 4’ diameter tree up in a master bed that had fallen thru the guys roof when he tried it on a windy day…opps…

Up the 3’ I do myself. Bigger that that I pay for a crane and crew. I have found the crane technique very safe and clean.

 

[Bearcatrp]

Do it the easy way. Get 200 lbs of tannerite. That should knock it down easy peasy.

 

[jyoutz]

The direction it falls is dependent on how its cut. If you were to cut it straight I'd say it would likely fall south perhaps slightly west judging by what looks to be the majority of mass. Assuming that it doesn't pivot on itself.

The key is to control the drop. You can remove limbs to bias weight in the direction you want it to drop. But as long as they don't hinder your escape path and there are no obstacles you want ro prevent from damaging it isn't 100% necessary. If it were me, assuming its a healthy tree, I'd just cut a wedge on the south side, straight cut from the north and use a felling wedge to force it to fall that way. Controlled drops are safe drops.

I'm not a professional though, just dropped quite a bit of timber in my time.

Your advice is sound. I’m not a professional faller either, but I’ve spent decades working around and observing professional fallers.