The first b5100 Delorean

[Rob]

Hi John, i think my worst fears about your pto output have now been relised i'm afraid.
If the bolts are not there which would normally hold the adapter boss onto the pulley wheel, it looks almost a certainty that the adapter boss is also totally rusted to the pulley wheel also.
Mine has bolts, which do need to be fitted to prevent the boss working its way along/loose on the splined shaft, it is just a push fit, maybe a firm fit but still a push fit.
I really think you need to re think wether you want to go further with this part of your project my friend.
The first problem with the shaft sleeve rusted solid to the adapter boss is one thing, but if the boss is also solid on the pulley wheel, things are just going from bad to worse.
At this stage i would be seriously considering just getting the whole lot off the end of the crankshaft , then , if you still want to use that kit, start afresh from the crank end and possible get a new pulley wheel as a good fresh starting point.

just my thoughts, but i do honestly think you are on a slippery slope with it as it is.
good luck with it.

Great project your doing aswell

rob

 

[johngwalsh]

Hi steve,
I was looking for item 4 on your diagram looks like a bolt holding the male spline flange to the pulley.Should this be visible?

 

[Apogee]

Hi John,

Yes, these should be visible. If the bolt heads had rusted off, I would think you would certainly see nubs left in the hub flange slots. Looking at your pics, I'm guessing whoever put it together assembled it without the bolts because they are not really necessary.

Keep in mind that this assembly is *supposed* to be removed every now and again to grease the spines. It could be that the person figured it was easier to just re-assemble without them.

Steve

 

[johngwalsh]

Steve[/QUOTE]

Hi John, i think my worst fears about your pto output have know to a head i'm afraid.
If the bolts are not there which would normally hold the adapter boss onto the pulley wheel, it looks almost a certainty that the adapter boss is also totally rusted to the pulley wheel also.
I really think you need to re think wether you want to go further with this part of your project my friend.
The first problem with the shaft sleeve rusted solid to the adapter boss is one thing, but if the boss is also solid on the pulley wheel, things are just going from bad to worse.
At this stage i would be seriously considering just getting the whole lot off the end of the crankshaft , then , if you still want to use that kit, start afresh from the crank end and possible get a new pulley wheel as a good fresh starting point.

just my thoughts, but i do honestly think you are on a slippery slope with it as it is.
good luck with it.

Great project your doing aswell

rob

Sitting hear getting dizzy at the thought of which way to go.It came with a center mounted mower deck run from the front pulley.Admittedly its also in horrific condition.The fly wheel in the front ...does this power my lights as well as drive the belts there is a wire coming off it i presumed it was a dynamo..so do I need this to run the tractor.Thinking if the anti seize doesnt work and i was going to run a few light welds on the spline collar it would keep the heat just on the collar and might loosin things up

 

[johngwalsh]

Hi John,

Yes, these should be visible. If the bolt heads had rusted off, I would think you would certainly see nubs left in the hub flange slots. Looking at your pics, I'm guessing whoever put it together assembled it without the bolts because they are not really necessary.

Keep in mind that this assembly is *supposed* to be removed every now and again to grease the spines. It could be that the person figured it was easier to just re-assemble without them.

Steve

I looked again there isnt a hole,bolt or blemish to say something like that was there.Think it might be slightly different arrangement to yoursDrilling out those bolts would have been easier than what might have to come yet.The corrosion actually inside the pulley is a minimum so unless the pulley sheared them and moved so I cant see them they werent there.

 

[johngwalsh]

Pedals complete.throttle lever came next...

 

[Apogee]

Well, the splines could have worn to the point that the pulley shifted and "caught" again while it was being run, but I kind of doubt it. My guess is it just was assembled without the bolts.

I'd use your big torch and just heat the whole collar red hot and see what you get. You might be able to grow it enough that it comes right off... (I know, wishful thinking)

Not sure if it will get hot enough to destroy the crank seal because the there is quite a bit of metal to dissipate the heat. Worst case, it does zap the seal and you have to replace it. However, at that point everything is apart and you'd be good to go anyway...

Please note, the actual crankshaft damper is held onto the end of the crank by a nut. You can see it on the exploded diagrams. That nut is hiding under the hub flange so you don't want to pull against the damper (belt pulley) itself.

VERY nice job on the new pedals!

 

[Rob]

The ball's in your court here i'm afraid, no there is no quick fix on this by the look of it and with very questionable end results also.

if i were in your position i would have to have a good think about if i really do need to have this part ftted and then move forward to a resolution.

If i did want to use it, i would do as allready mentioned , get the whole lot of the crank to start with without damaging the crankshaft end.
Then check the condition of the parts involved and check their condition, then progress from there.
At the moment you're in no mans land with it.

Maybe a few stiff drinks may help

good luck
rob

 

[B7100]

I can't see a clear picture of the pulley where the wire comes out,are you sure its not an electric clutch?
dave

 

[johngwalsh]

here it is.I actually think the old one will look better if painted butI have the choice either way

 

[Apogee]

Nice job John!!!!

Kind regards,

Steve

 

[johngwalsh]

can anyone tell me ...in the last photo it shows the carriage part of the throttle lever.. is this supposed to have the round bent pipe mark on it.Not sure is it from the lever being pressed on something round or is it actually supposed to be there as part of the design. Dont want to replicate damage on the new part only to have to fix it later.

 

[Rob]

EMC on the end of shaft to power the mower deck.

That lever is correct, no prob with it shape, half round is for your finger to pull it up and stop the engine.

rob

 

[johngwalsh]

I can't see a clear picture of the pulley where the wire comes out,are you sure its not an electric clutch?
dave

Its the pulley on the very front by the aluminium block has the wire coming out.

 

[johngwalsh]

EMC on the end of shaft to power the mower deck.

That lever is correct, no prob with it shape, half round is for your finger to pull it up and stop the engine.

rob

Thanks rob.that will be next weeks project.

 

[Rob]

Its emc (electro-magnetic clutch ) , all the time the engine is running the shaft is rotating (live) , without the EMC you would have no means of controlling the mower deck (engegment/disengage) .
You control the deck blade engagement by a switch on/off to cut or stop.
rob

 

[johngwalsh]

Just one last question.If I put a bottle jack on the crank shaft pulley heat the splined collar and push off the alluminium block will i damage my engine or is it just the crank pulley i risk damaging

 

[Rob]

thin alloy casing - v- steel pulley wheel , dont even go there john.

 

[johngwalsh]

thin alloy casing - v- steel pulley wheel , dont even go there john.

sorry Rob I wasnt clear..i dont mean the engine block I mean the block that the mower pulley is bolted to ,its a big lump of aluminium.As seen in the last photo's

 

[Rob]

here is a question for you john which may swing things.
What condition is the cutting deck, good bad or other, and how ofter are you likely to use it.


If the answer is bad or other, just bin the lot and look out for a rear mounted topper or similar.