Let me say that video is 99% phooey... Here is why..
1. I run the cheapest OIL filters I can buy on both my machines. Been running STP filters from Autozone $1.99 on sale, buy them in quantity usually. I run premium oil, in my case Rotella 5-40 T6 Synthetic. I use both my machines hard as in farming. Neither tractor is a 'hobby' tractor, they both work at their design limits, why I have what I have. The only time an oil filter will go on bypass or plug is lack of maintenance or fatal engine failure as in something comes apart inside and the shrapnel makes it to the filter and then it's moot anyway because the engine is toast.
I do an oil analysis on every change and I change my oil according to what that analysis tells me, in my case every fall, irregardless of engine hours. That analysis tells me the rate of depletion of the additive package as well as the suspended solids (combustion by-products), viscosity index and a bunch of other important factors. Oil analysis don't lie. Having said that I do change the drivetrain lubricants and FWA lubricant on the recommended change intervals (I do an analysis on that as well and I'm always within recomended depletion level (additive package / viscosity and suspended solids at the recommended change intervals. Having said that, I do use Kubota branded Hydraulic filters always (more on that later....)
2. The case is inconsequential on an oil filter because the oil pressure developed don't ever exceed the design limits of ANY filter and on all filters (OIL) the case head is roll crimped to the body, all made that way. Even the cheapest filters will have a bypass spring inside if they are bypass filters, my cheapo STP filters have it, I look. Sealing rings don't need to be 'soft' they need to seal against the filter boss and thats it. Hard or soft is not a factor, seal ability is.
3. On both my machines the oil filters are on the right side of the block, under the fuel filter, not underneath. Having never owned anything but M's, cannot comment about filter placement but on my machines, damaging the filters would be impossible. Hard enough to remove them as it is...
4. On fuel filters, I look at the micron pass specification, not the brand. I run Wix commercial fuel filters, 5 micron pass rated. If anything gets past the primary filter the phenolic secondary filter will catch it and as a matter of consequence, I've never had anything in my secondary filter and that includes water but then I'm particular about fuel. I fill my tractors from a bulk tank and my fuel supplier pre treats the fuel before he fills it. Same fuel that powers my diesel standby genny. No 5 gallon cans to fill with here.
Both tractors have a bit over 1500 hours on them with no lubrication or fuel issues and no filtration failures. Thats all at rated load, no babying them here. I'm in the farming business. Not a hobby. I work them. Why I bought what I did (other than I'm color blind as this is Deere country and I take some razzing about them once in a while)....
5. Finally, a while ago I tried Messics online for filters and they sent me the wrong hydraulic filters, the ones they sent me fit and I put them on only to discover later that the filters they sent me didn't have the flow rating my M's require. Went to my local dealer, got the right ones and installed them. Lesson learned, get them from your dealer and not online. and Messic's prices were no better than my local dealer other than they were tax free which in my case is moot anyway because I'm exempt on ag purchases anyway. No tax on tractor related items or implements.
On oil filters, I consider an oil filter a secondary line of defense. The filter filters the lubricating oil but if you use high quality oil the only thing the filter does it marginally filter it. Small engines (lawnmower engines), most don't have a filter and they run hotter and turn more rpm than a diesel tractor does and they don't fail from lubrication issues unless they come apart, which is rare.
Don't buy into that phooey. What you see online in some dissertation may be factual but in the real world it may not be. In my case, it's not.
Your mileage may vary, but I know what my mileage is because I depend on my units to make a living with.
No hobby here. Just hard, proper maintenance and careful tracking of lubricant life. Another reason why I run Rotella engine oil, Spirax GL5 85-90 gear oil and Chevron All weather THF synthetic hydraulic oil. I read the specifications and disregard the cost.
The Internet is an interesting place but the facts presented may not always be actual facts. In the case of Messics it in their best interest to push Kubota branded products, after all, they are a Kubota dealer (and other lines).
My opinion and I stand by it from actual experience.
