Shop/Shed 30x60

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6/2 - day 6. One more frame fabbed and raised + 2 braces. Had to take midday off for heat. Decided to move man door from center of far end nearer the right corner.
View attachment 104069
Good job!
Personally, I have found that corners are too valuable of a space to waste with a door. I prefer anywhere out of the corners, even if just a few feet out. Just enough for shelves or something.
 

fried1765

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I specified 5" in the slab, but I think it's a little more. I wanted an 8" wide footing, 12" minimum depth below grade. But Humberto's used to local code, so he made the footing 16" wide and same depth. I calculated 37 yards, his worker said they used 5 - 8 yd loads, but Humberto told me they used 6 - 8 yd loads, which I don't doubt for that huge footing.

There's 3 - #4 rebar in the footing and wire mesh in the slab. I didn't see any effort to raise the mesh, so it's probably not adding much. He preferred mesh over fiber, but I'm not sure why. Maybe the fiber doesn't finish as well?

It's supposed to be 3500 psi mix. I tried to keep it damp for 4 days. There's one small shrinkage crack about 1/3 from one end, all the way across. Overall, I'm pleased with it.
That is a large slab.
If no pre pour planned, or cut in expansion joints, certain to develop more cracks over time.
 

PoTreeBoy

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6/4 - walls are up. Needs a lot of bracing, etc. but they're up.
IMG_20230604_124107682.jpg
 
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PoTreeBoy

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Are you considering an "attic truss"?
Free storage space, for relatively light weight items.
No, at 4:12 they'll only be 5' high at the peak. I may check into adding a little live load to store long, light stuff.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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When I do these types of builds I put metal bands the them in a V or X fashion to give it super shear strength.
If you use structural screws you can tighten the braces to make the corners perfectly straight and solid!

1685987883490.png
 
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fried1765

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No, at 4:12 they'll only be 5' high at the peak. I may check into adding a little live load to store long, light stuff.
I have 6/12, and over a 50' span, so an attic truss gave me some nice extra space.
 

PoTreeBoy

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When I do these types of builds I put metal bands the them in a V or X fashion to give it super shear strength.
If you use structural screws you can tighten the braces to make the corners perfectly straight and solid!

View attachment 104220
I don't understand where you're using the metal bands. I didn't order any 1x4s so I let in 2x4s. I'll add a 2x4 stiffener on the studs directly under each truss.
 

PoTreeBoy

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6/5 - this morning I finished installing the mudsill anchors, installed the last letin wall brace and removed the strongbacks we had installed to raise the long panel with the 10' door in it. We measured the top dimensions, both ends and one side were within 1/2", the other side was about 1" long. Good enough.

It was hot by noon, so I knocked off and went to Tuesday Morning to check out their store fixtures. Bought 4 - 8' tall x 4'wide x 2' deep shelf units.
 
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mcmxi

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6/5 - this morning I finished installing the mudsill anchors, installed the last letin wall brace and removed the strongbacks we had installed to raise the long panel with the 10' door in it. We measured the top dimensions, both ends and one side were within 1/2", the other side was about 1" long. Good enough.

It was hot by noon, so I knocked off and went to Tuesday Morning to check out their store fixtures. Bought 4 - 8' tall x 4'wide x 2' deep shelf units.
Looks like it's going well. I started digging holes for steel pipe for the first of two storage sheds but I feel like Bruce Willis in Armageddon with the LP auger I'm using. So many rocks and boulders to deal with. I'm going to switch from the 12" auger to the 8" auger in the hope that I can thread the needle.

A friend is going to give me a bunch of metal siding that I'll be using on the roof and or walls.

Looking forward to seeing your build progress. It helps to inspire me to beat myself up making progress on my own builds. (y)
 
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North Idaho Wolfman

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I don't understand where you're using the metal bands. I didn't order any 1x4s so I let in 2x4s. I'll add a 2x4 stiffener on the studs directly under each truss.
The metal bands go from the top corner top plate to the bottom plate.
 

PoTreeBoy

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6/6 - spent the morning in the halls of beauracracy. Rural electric company needs E911 address from county planning and permit dept. County permit office this month is interpreting 'living quarters' as any plumbing. So I have a permit from the county directing the power company that plumbing must be complete before permanent electrical connection is made. Sewage treatment, formerly managed by the health department, is now handled by the DEQ all on-line. Except the state website hasn't been updated, so how do you make contact?

I did get the trusses on order. I asked about the impact of adding 20psf BCLL. It changed the top and bottom chords from 2x4 to 2x6, but removed some web members. Bottom line, less than $100 total additional cost, so I went for it. I'll be able to store/hang things 'in the rafters' and feel more comfortable.

Installed last 2 top corner braces and top plate of one end.
 
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PoTreeBoy

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We are officially waiting on trusses, and someone to install them.
IMG_20230609_130134664.jpg
 
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fried1765

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6/5 - this morning I finished installing the mudsill anchors, installed the last letin wall brace and removed the strongbacks we had installed to raise the long panel with the 10' door in it. We measured the top dimensions, both ends and one side were within 1/2", the other side was about 1" long. Good enough.

It was hot by noon, so I knocked off and went to Tuesday Morning to check out their store fixtures. Bought 4 - 8' tall x 4'wide x 2' deep shelf units.
1" out of wack is "good enough"
Not in my book.
 

GreensvilleJay

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me neither !!!
1/2" is waay to much, an inch...well, you wouldn't be working here...

The Master German Timber Framer next door was 'upset' to be off 1/8" in 45 feet.
 

PoTreeBoy

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1" out of wack is "good enough"
Not in my book.
me neither !!!
1/2" is waay to much, an inch...well, you wouldn't be working here...

The Master German Timber Framer next door was 'upset' to be off 1/8" in 45 feet.
Man, you guys are a tough audience! I thought that was pretty good for a rank amateur. Heck, I had one door in my house out of plumb almost that far. Door wouldn't stay open. I finally took it completely out. The 'pros' had nailed the hinge side straight to the stud, which was 3/4" out. Then shimmed the jamb with corrugated paper.

I'll try to do better next time.