New Holland T2310, New Holland TC21D, Kubota l3010 GST, Farmall H
- Mar 18, 2021
Hilarious, that 12" is deep. . Meanwhile, some people got what 5-6 ft recently.Deep snow 12 "
Plowing certainly requires more weight and traction than blowing. In my defense, I did note that under the advantages of snowblowers. But yeah, I failed to mention the effect on steering, particularly with a front mounted blade.I am not sure i missed or it is assumed regarding traction. I would suspect that in general a blade would need more traction (weight and/or traction aide)…with an angled blade it is not unusual for the material(snow) to wash out the steering if no traction aides used.
Pets and children! I have my wife keep the dog inside while I'm clearing the snow, otherwise he's apt to try and play with either the augers or the discharge.Lastly my four legged friends help in snow removal…I understand that the human should control the animals…however in my mind I have had an ornery dog charge/chase and in one instance attack front plow (but no harm to the dog or anything like that). I believe a snow blower could pose a problem if operator not really careful. I guess a snowblower could blow a chunk at an ornery dog also, so maybe a wash?
Good point. One of the nice things about using a tractor is the ability to have attachments on both the front and the rear. I myself usually have the rear blower and FEL on the tractor. I usually use the FEL to clean up close to the concrete around the garage and scrape right down to the ice when clearing a rink, but it becomes the prime mover when the snow is really slushy.For individual implements, you list a lot of good information. However, many people use more than one.
No, I didn't. I was focused on tractor-related options.You didn't include an ATV or UTV with a plow. It is ridiculous how much snow they can push and how fast. You just have to have enough area for the plowed snow to go.
Ok, I'm trying real hard to come up with some advantages of an open station when clearing snow and I'm drawing a blank here. Cost, maybe?I would add though that you could expand it a bit for open station vs. cabbed tractors because there's a difference there too.
About 750' (feet, not yards <lol>) through the bush, up through a cut in the hill and opening out into a large parking area between the house and the garage. I clear enough of the parking area to comfortably accommodate a dozen cars or so. Once the lake freezes, I clear a path down to the shore and a large ice rink for the grandkids.You don't say how long your "long wooded lane" is,
I don't see many advantages for open station having been there and done that for five winters. But as you say, cost could be a significant advantage. A blower on a cabbed tractor is a joy, not always so much on an open station if the temperature and wind aren't cooperating.Ok, I'm trying real hard to come up with some advantages of an open station when clearing snow and I'm drawing a blank here. Cost, maybe?
My favorite weapon is 80 degrees and light south windA frequent question that comes up here revolves around "I have xxxxx. What should I use to remove the snow around here". Usually this results in a plethora of replies with each poster expounding on their own personal favourites. So I thought it might be fun and potentially more useful to condense the pros and cons of each approach in one thread.
Disclaimer: my own personal bias is towards snowblowing, because it seems the best solution for my own particular situation -- up to 18' of snowfall per year through a long wooded lane. So I'll start with the pros and cons of my personal favourite and invite you to join in with your perceptions.
1. Lowest traction & horsepower requirements in deep snow. Instead of pushing and shoving a heavy load out of the way, a snowblower picks up the snow and tosses it off to the side. In deep snow, one can simply reduce the travel speed and move the snow with no additional stress or strain on the tractor.
2. No tendency to narrow the path over the course of the season. Since the blower tosses the snow well beyond the side of the lane, there are no banks falling back in beside the tractor after the blade passes or shoving the tractor towards the centre.
3. Discharge can be aimed. The combination of chute rotation and deflection allows the operator to place the removed snow anywhere within range of the discharge. EG: pile the snow to the side of an intersecting cleared path or away from the garage.
1. Highest initial cost. A snowblower costs more than a simple blade. In addition, some blades can be used for other purposes like moving dirt, whereas a snowblower is dedicated to one task only.
2. Higher maintenance requirements. A snowblower has moving parts that must be lubed or greased. Chains, gears and bearings eventually wear out.
3. Increased hazards: Snowblowers can ingest objects hidden under the snow -- frequently stones and rocks -- and then either hurl them with considerable force or jam in the mechanism, hopefully breaking only the shear pin. Operations are halted until the mechanism is repaired (it's as much fun changing a shear bolt with frozen fingers as it sounds).
4. Poor performance in wet, sticky snow. Some blowers are better able to handle this than others, but all blowers are subject to plugging under certain circumstances.
5. Slowest method of removing light snow.
1. Rear mounted: Cheapest and often heaviest duty option, this hangs on the existing 3ph, is powered by the existing PTO and requires no special mounts or frames. Will fit a variety of tractors, opening up the used market. The tractor travels on the cleared path. BUT the operator has to twist around in the seat and drive in reverse. Can blow right up to a fixed object.
2. Rear mounted pull-behind: Similar to above, but the intake is on the tractor side so the blower is used while facing forward. Unfortunately, this means the tractor travels on the uncleared snow. Best suited to larger tractors with ag tires. Also, more difficult to get close to fixed objects. Operator can comfortably face forward while operating, although may require some twisting to observe discharge.
3. Front mounted: Most expensive. Tend to be lighter construction to reduce weight. Special mounts or subframes limit models each one can be used with, limiting used market. Requires forward-facing PTO, possibly at non-standard speed, or complicated drive mechanism. More prone to rudder effect (resistance to steering input) in deep snow. Can get right up to fixed objects. Most comfortable operation as the driver faces forward. Best view of discharge for the same reason.
4. Snowthrower (aka: single stage): Lightest construction, usually front mounted and offered for small low-powered (eg: lawn) tractors. These differ from a snowBLOWER in that the intake auger also throws the snow through the chute, instead of a separate impeller below the chute fed by the auger. These are suitable only for dry snow and plug very easily in wet snow. They don't throw the snow as far and may require a higher travel speed to throw it at all in light snow.
1. Cheapest and most versatile option. An existing dirt blade can readily be adapted for use with snow, although a lightweight snow blade may not be up to the task of moving dirt.
2. Minimal maintenance. Other than a pivot for angling the blade, there's not much in the way of moving parts to maintain.
3. Fastest method of removing light snow. In fact, sometimes faster is better, giving the snow some momentum to help clear an existing bank.
4. Best way to move wet slushy snow. Blades don't plug up the way a blower can.
5. Best way to get close to objects. Front mounted or rear mounted, the operator can ease right up to an object (eg: garage door), drop the blade and pull the snow away.
6. May push gravel around and off to the side, but doesn't hurl it onto the lawn or through the neighbour's window.
1. Doesn't move the snow very far. This can be a huge problem where objects such as trees or fences border the path being cleared. After a few snow falls, such objects become anchors that prevent the bank from moving back and the path starts closing in.
2. Limited control of where the snow ends up. EG: leaves plow rows across intersecting paths that must be cleared.
3. Greatest strain on the equipment. Every action has an equal and opposite reaction; shoving several hundreds of pounds of snow out of the way means several hundreds of pounds of force pushing back. Particularly problematic if the operator tries to ram a frozen bank back further.
4. More likely to require multiple passes. Long paths and/or deep snow eventually leads to spillage past the leading edge of the angled blade, requiring either additional passes or smaller bites.
1. Rear mounted. Most commonly seen with dirt blades. While the operator will spend most time facing forward, it may be necessary to twist around when plowing alongside obstructions. Blade and operator must be rotated backwards to push banks back.
2. Front mounted. Usually replaces a FEL bucket. May require 3rd function for angling. Operator faces forward in use with good visibility. Easily pushes banks back without reconfiguring blade direction. In fact, banks can be pushed in stages by initially lifting the blade and pushing the top first. Easy to drag snow back from buildings.
3. Snow pusher. Basically a blade with wings or perhaps a FEL bucket with no bottom, the sides help contain the snow within the confines of the blade without spillage or plow rows. Most useful for piling snow dead ahead instead of off to one side, up to the capacity of the pusher. Of limited use on long runs and deep snow. These tend to come in sizes suitable for large, heavy tractors with good traction and power. The wings limit how close one can get to drag snow back from a building.
Front End Loader
1. Perhaps the most versatile attachment for any tractor. It works with snow as well as it works with dirt. It can pick up loads of snow and cart it away to pile it anywhere you please. And since snow is lighter than dirt, you can fill the bucket to the brim with impunity.
2. Operator is facing forward not twisted around.
3. Possibly the best option for confined areas with limited capacity for piles of snow.
4. Great for heavy, wet, slushy snow.
1. Limited capacity. Unlike a blade or blower that continually move snow over a long pass, once the bucket is full you need to go dump it.
2. Limited ability to drag snow backwards away from objects. Even fully dumped, the bucket is angled away from the direction of travel and may tend to ride up on packed snow.
1. Since snow is lighter than dirt, one can purchase a separate, larger, snow bucket to increase capacity and further leverage the investment.
OK: What have I missed about your favourite weapon?
That's funny! A light south wind is your idea of a snow blower!My favorite weapon is 80 degrees and light south wind
Cool set up and that's one very cool tractor. I really like the aesthetics of that B7100. The pup is awesome too! Guarding the tractor for you.I have maintained my blacktop driveway and my neighbors gravel driveway with my B7100 with B2650 front mount blower and 6 foot scraper blade for 13 years now. Here in central Wisconsin we rarely see 12 inch plus storms, most are in the 4 to 8 inch range.
I use the scraper blade 90% of the time. I never reverse it and I can still push the snow banks pretty high. I do angle the blade and do most of the clearing by pulling with the snow rolling to one side. I use the blower for the rare 12 inch or so storms and to move banks back, clear around the mailboxes and areas that are tough to get with the blade. Heavy drifting is seldom an issue.
I enjoy the open station and fresh air it provides but I have the luxury of waiting till the storm is passed and winds subside before I start cleaning things up.
For me , with our snows , this has been about the perfect machine and implement set-up.
March of 2019 saw the snow start to pile up. The pushed up snow in these pictures was accomplished with the back blade, not reversed , pushing.
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Thank you! I agree with you on the aesthetics! I prefer tractors and trucks to have a more "squared off" appearance but a lot of that is my age catching up to me!Cool set up and that's one very cool tractor. I really like the aesthetics of that B7100.
I agree 100%. I'd much rather my MX and M had that "squared off" look rather than the rounded look. I grew up in a time when tractors had edges, not curves, so the seeds were sewn long ago. Maybe that's why I've had my Jeep TJ for 22 years. I like the boxy look.Thank you! I agree with you on the aesthetics! I prefer tractors and trucks to have a more "squared off" appearance but a lot of that is my age catching up to me!