Saw a 6x6 8' PT post at $50 and 12' at $75.....yeah, no.Gosh - - Ken's and Old Paint's projects had me hankering for a build.
Both are taking on some great projects. My hat's off to you.
Ken, if you do sleep there, I won't tell anybody...
Our lot next door has a 30'x140' slab where a 3-story chicken coop once stood. Place was an egg farm for years.
Slab is in pretty good shape 50 years later. I park Moline and implements there. Good headstart.
This morning was in Lowe's looking for 4/4 x 6" pine.
At $6/bdft, I passed, and it tempered my enthusiasm....I didn't dare go one more aisle to the framing lumber....
View attachment 60330
Well it is looking mighty fine to me. I will again be on a remote sawmilling job next week so maybe it will be completed when I get back home.its a huge upgrade for me to be able to keep the two Kubota's dry, in the shade, and level along with some of my implements .
Agreed! It just doesn't get any better than that, does it?But in the big picture its a very minor hiccup especially when I think how blessed I am just to be able to have a piece of land such as I do that allows me to enjoy my passions etc. Habitat creation, wildlife and EVEN Kubota tractors! LOL
If you were talking about the steel gussets that I see connecting the truss members, no, they don't offer any structural integrity or load capacity. Their primary purpose is to hold the corners of the triangles in place and translate vertical loads into horizontal loads. Think about how a triangle works. If you lay it on the longest side, and put downward force on the peak, the middle of the side that's on the ground has very little or even NO downward force on it. It will have PLENTY of tensile force on it, though. This is why a splice in the bottom chord of a truss is of little or no concern until you get extremely heavy snow loads. Then the solution is to make the splice longer. Truss strength also lets you use smaller lumber (less weight and cost) as well as half as many required as there would be for regular rafters. That's how trusses work, so that there aren't any center columns or posts required under a large area.
Try this little experiment with popsicle sticks. Take two, glue one end together in a V shape, which is standard rafter configuration. Turn it upside down and put a little pressure on the point. It'll break easy. Now, glue another member to it to make an A frame. A bit harder to break. Add a "W" in the small triangle in the A, and now it's even harder to break. The more places you distribute the load and change it from compression to tensile loading, the stronger the truss gets. And it doesn't take many pieces to make a VERY strong truss. Mine span 24 feet, and I'm not the least bit concerned about any loading on the top. That is NOT to say that I would consider hanging any significant load from the bottom truss chords, though, especially toward the middle or at the splice.
Ken, I posted this a while back on someone else's building project:Thanks for the info on the trusses Old_Paint! What I was wondering about though was the steel used for the roof and sides, if that offered any structural integrity to a pole type construction such as mine.