Loader does not tilt

[knightgang]

On my L2950 with LA 450 loader, my wife was operating and bucket got tilted all the way down and will not tilt back up (curl up). The rear 3PH hydros still work and the loader will lift up and down. I did notice fluid on the outside of the loader valve and that is new today. It is only coming from one side of the valve, I am assuming this is the tilt/curl side. I can't see it leaking, but the fluid on it is fresh today.

i have felt that the loader valve was quite worn and in need of replacement anyway, but why would it stop curling? What should I look for? Maybe a seal busted and a piece of it jammed the valve?

Thanks

 

[D2Cat]

disconnect your hydraulic connectors and reconnect them. Probably one popped loose.

 

[Bulldog]

Does it load the engine when you move the stick side to side?

Like D2Cat said, or could have blown a internal seal in one of the rams.

 

[knightgang]

If it blew a seal in one ram, wouldn't the other one tilt it back???


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[North Idaho Wolfman]

If it blew a seal in one ram, wouldn't the other one tilt it back???

No because the fluid would just flow through the path of least resistance, the blown seal.

 

[cerlawson]

I had the same thing when attaching loader.
DCat has it right. My connector not quite connected.

 

[knightgang]

I will check on this today. I learned move about the events leading up to this. Seems that while my wife was working in the woods, branches and vines caught the loader handle and it was pulled with quite a force. There is a slight leak at the valve body on the tilt control side. Will check the connections first, then move to trouble shooting the valve.


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[knightgang]

I disconnected and reconnected the lines and the tilt functions again. However, I did notice that both cylinders are leaking and the valve body for the curl/tilt functions has leaked as well.

I will most likely break down those cylinders and have them resealed and repacked and replace the loader valve body.

 

[Bulldog]

Glad they are working, better get a splint for your wallet if you plan on buying a valve body.

 

[knightgang]

Glad they are working, better get a splint for your wallet if you plan on buying a valve body.

Really? I am looking at one on EBay for $200, new. Price checking it against local distributor and have checked out the manufacturer website. Up to 10 GMP and 4000 psi.

I did see that Messicks wanted like $1500 for the valve body.


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[ShaunRH]

Some hydraulic shops can rebuild your existing valve for about the same amount as a new Chinese one. That might not seem like a fair deal, but all the fittings will work and you'll stay original parts.

 

[knightgang]

Some hydraulic shops can rebuild your existing valve for about the same amount as a new Chinese one. That might not seem like a fair deal, but all the fittings will work and you'll stay original parts.

This is on Ebay, but not a Chinese valve. Manufactured by Brand Hydraulics in Omaha, Nebraska.

 

[Bulldog]

Yeah, I was talking about original equ.

 

[OLD GAR]

Glad they are working, better get a splint for your wallet if you plan on buying a valve body.

Or if you intend to replace the cylinders. Kubota thinks they are solid gold. OEM Seal kits aren't easy to get either. Can I post here where I finally found my seal kits for my LA272 loader?

 

[knightgang]

I think you can post your source.

For my cylinders, there are a ton of hydraulic shops in my area where I can break down the cylinder and take it in and get all new seals.

One reason I am planning on a new valve body is because the latest linkage on mine is old and antiquated. A new valve with new linkage is a simple fix of all of those problems. Might even relocate the valve a little for better operational control.


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