Changing out 25 yr old hydraulic hoses

[woodsy]

Wondering what I might be up against before I turn any wrenches.
Figures I would spring a leak on my 1st time out with the new snowblower.
The weather cracked hose in need of replacement runs from the joystick block to the
block next to the hyd filter. Its a 95 L3300dt FWIW.
One end is a quick connect coupler and the other end connecting the joystick box
is threaded to a 90* fitting at the IN port., looks a bit rusty there.
Should i spray some WD 40 on it prior to trying to turn it off ?
Should I also change the line running parallel to it from the OUT port while I'm at it ?, probably same age but not leaking yet.
Will i lose any hyd fluid at the quick connect down lower by the filter when I disconnect that ? New to hydraulic hose replacement so trying to get off on the right foot.

 

[jyoutz]

Wondering what I might be up against before I turn any wrenches.
Figures I would spring a leak on my 1st time out with the new snowblower.
The weather cracked hose in need of replacement runs from the joystick block to the
block next to the hyd filter. Its a 95 L3300dt FWIW.
One end is a quick connect coupler and the other end connecting the joystick box
is threaded to a 90* fitting at the IN port., looks a bit rusty there.
Should i spray some WD 40 on it prior to trying to turn it off ?
Should I also change the line running parallel to it from the OUT port while I'm at it ?, probably same age but not leaking yet.
Will i lose any hyd fluid at the quick connect down lower by the filter when I disconnect that ? New to hydraulic hose replacement so trying to get off on the right foot.

First thing: shut off engine and then work your joystick to relieve pressure. Remove hoses and then be sure to cover the valves and connectors on the tractor to keep the system clean (plastic bag with rubber bands). Take old hoses to a hydraulic shop and have replacements made. Then install new hoses and tighten. Start the tractor and work the loader and 3ph to burp oil bubbles from the system. Then check the hydraulic reservoir lever and top off as needed. You will lose a little bit of fluid, but not much, especially if you remove the upper portion of the hose first, much of the fluid will drain back into reservoir before you disconnect the lower fitting.

 

[DustyRusty]

You will be losing a lot of fluid by the time that you are finished with the project. I would be using Deep Creep by Seafoam to break them loose. If you are working outside and the temperatures are below 60 degrees, the task gets even more difficult, because the steel contracts holding the grip on the threads. I know a lot of people that will not agree with this, but think about it this way, you heat the metal to expand it when you are trying to get something apart. I would use a tubing wrench on the hose that attaches to the valve, and possibly a dead blow hammer on the end of the wrench to shock the fitting loose. Once you have the hose off, you can bring it inside your shop to disassemble the other end. If you are using a local shop to make up the hoses, they will transfer the quick disconnect to the new hose. Some use a single wrap of Teflon tape to install the new hose, but be careful not to get the tape close to the ends of the hose, because you don't want any of that to get into your hydraulic system. I use pipe dope on NPT fittings (National Pipe Thread). Good luck with this and I don't envy you for the task you have ahead. If you are a lucky person, it will go easy. With my luck, I will be fighting it for a couple of hours, and for that reason, I would gamble getting through the winter with no failures and do it in the spring. I would also keep soaking the rusted fittings hoping that when the time comes to remove them, the penetrating oil will have done its job.

 

[GeoHorn]

IF it ain’t broke…..

But if you insist, change ALL the hoses and ALL the fluid and filters and get this job over-with.

 

[lugbolt]

this post reminds me.

About 20 years ago, we (dealer I worked for) traded for a good used L35 TLB, complete. It was used but not used up. Most of the trades were wholesaled out. The buyer was from out of state, Ohio as I remember. We'd amass 4 or 5 tractors for him to pick up and he'd come down to pick them up as a full load, but not until he had a full load.

So the L35 was the last of a 4 tractor load. He shows up, and upon loading it blows a loader hose. Fine, I had one stashed behind the toolbox. Bucket cylinder hose. I put that on for him, and it immediately blows the other one. We didn't make hoses at the dealer, so I Ran across town, had another hose made, put it on. Then a hose from the valve blows out. Run across town, have a hose made up, installed it. Then it was a boom cylinder hose. 5 hours later, we came to the conclusion that it would be best to replace ALL of them (I think there were 26 total). By then I'm hungry, it's hotter than a 2 pecker'd billy goat outside, and I'm getting hangry! Told the guy he was gonna have to unload it so I could put the last two hoses on, inside the backhoe boom (y'all know the ones I'm talking about...). Guy gets upset, goes and talks to my boss, boss says put them on I'll pay you overtime. Another 3 1/2 hours later and every drop of udt I could scrounge up, and I'm done. Exhausted, mad, and extremely hungry! McDonalds never tasted so good.

I was never so glad to see a tractor leave.

 

[Mark_BX25D]

I would be using Deep Creep by Seafoam to break them loose.

Yep. WD-40 is the worst excuse for a penetrating oil out there. It wasn't invented to be a penetrating oil in the first place. Marketing just decided to slap that label on it.

I've had very good results with Deep Creep. Might be better than PB Blaster. Certainly either one is FAR better than WD-40.

If you are working outside and the temperatures are below 60 degrees, the task gets even more difficult, because the steel contracts holding the grip on the threads. I know a lot of people that will not agree with this, but think about it this way, you heat the metal to expand it when you are trying to get something apart.

Yep, and that's a very good idea. Where flammable liquids (like hydraulic oil) are involved, I prefer a heat gun. 16 bucks at Harbor Freight actually gets you a decent one.

I would also keep soaking the rusted fittings hoping that when the time comes to remove them, the penetrating oil will have done its job.

Amen and amen!

 

[torch]

Where flammable liquids (like hydraulic oil) are involved, I prefer a heat gun.

I'll do you one better: induction heater. A mechanic friend put me on to them. I bought this one a year ago and have been extremely impressed at how well, safe and fast it works. It only heats the metal inside the coils and can heat a nut to red heat if left on long enough, although for heat sensitive materials or flammable liquids, I apply some penetrating oil and then just heat until the oil starts to smoke. Repeat once or twice to really draw the oil into the joint.

 

[D2Cat]

Before installing a new hose I'd at least blow it out with air to clear anything loose that may be in there.

 

[woodsy]

Thanks for all the tips and tricks. Hopefully can get it straightened out before the
next snow storm.
Hadn't considered getting the hose made up locally but seeing Messick's wants $20 !!! to ship the $30 hose will probably look into the local shop.

 

[Jchonline]

Thanks for all the tips and tricks. Hopefully can get it straightened out before the
next snow storm.
Hadn't considered getting the hose made up locally but seeing Messick's wants $20 !!! to ship the $30 hose will probably look into the local shop.

Go to a hydraulic shop, not the Kubota dealer. It should be much cheaper.

 

[ctfjr]

I would tag each hose and fitting - may be obvious where they go but for me nothing is obvious.

My personal 'break free' penetrant is Mouse Milk.

 

[GeoHorn]

Mouse Milk is good. So is PB Blaster.

It’s difficult to find one anymore…but a high-wattage soldering gun placed against a flammable fitting for a few minutes will loosen it right up.

 

[Mark_BX25D]

I'll do you one better: induction heater. A mechanic friend put me on to them. I bought this one a year ago and have been extremely impressed at how well, safe and fast it works. It only heats the metal inside the coils and can heat a nut to red heat if left on long enough, although for heat sensitive materials or flammable liquids, I apply some penetrating oil and then just heat until the oil starts to smoke. Repeat once or twice to really draw the oil into the joint.

Excellent advice! I've been looking at those induction heaters.....

 

[Henro]

Thanks for all the tips and tricks. Hopefully can get it straightened out before the
next snow storm.
Hadn't considered getting the hose made up locally but seeing Messick's wants $20 !!! to ship the $30 hose will probably look into the local shop.

Hoses are not tractor specific. Get it made locally. Myself, as a non commercial enterprise, or not even an enterprise, I would just let things go and replace each failure one at a time.

But if I were running a business, I would replace them all and be done with it. But with locally sources replacements...

 

[DustyRusty]

If you are going to be replacing all the hoses, then consider having them done by one of the online mail order bride hydraulic hose companies. I have had very favorable dealings with https://www.discounthydraulichose.com/ for fittings. They are great if you are not certain as to what each type of end you will need, and they will work with you to get it right the first time.

 

[ctfjr]

If you are going to be replacing all the hoses, then consider having them done by one of the online mail order bride hydraulic hose companies. I have had very favorable dealings with https://www.discounthydraulichose.com/ for fittings. They are great if you are not certain as to what each type of end you will need, and they will work with you to get it right the first time.

I also used them for my hoses between my fel (for the grapple) and the valve. Excellent service!

 

[fried1765]

Wondering what I might be up against before I turn any wrenches.
Figures I would spring a leak on my 1st time out with the new snowblower.
The weather cracked hose in need of replacement runs from the joystick block to the
block next to the hyd filter. Its a 95 L3300dt FWIW.
One end is a quick connect coupler and the other end connecting the joystick box
is threaded to a 90* fitting at the IN port., looks a bit rusty there.
Should i spray some WD 40 on it prior to trying to turn it off ?
Should I also change the line running parallel to it from the OUT port while I'm at it ?, probably same age but not leaking yet.
Will i lose any hyd fluid at the quick connect down lower by the filter when I disconnect that ? New to hydraulic hose replacement so trying to get off on the right foot.

Buy a spray can of Kroil, and spray it on the rusty threads at least once each day for a week, before you begin trying to remove rusty looking fittings.
Kroil is sometimes difficult to find (Grainger?) but is the best rusty thread penetrant on the market.

 

[DustyRusty]

I also use Kroil, but it isn't readily available to most people, and that is why I recommended the SeaFoam Deep Creep. I buy the Kroil from Amazon, and I like the liquid in the can vs. the spray. Both are about the same money, but there is more in the dropper can than in the spray can. With the dropper, I can put it exactly where I need it. I also have penetrants in small medicine dropper bottles for the more delicate work.
I just received a new penetrating oil from CRC that I was asked to evaluate. Still haven't had anything to try it on. I will have to look around the backyard for some rusty metal to see what is so badly rusted that it won't come apart. That should be a good test.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Based on my experience, I say replace them all - unless you can tell that some of them are newer. Here's why:

1. As you've mentioned, unless you have a cheap local source, you can buy them cheaper. My dealer was reasonable when I had time to let them ship on their shop order. But some of them were NLA, so I had to find an alternate. I can also recommend discounthydraulichose.com. I ordered on the weekend, they shipped by noon Monday, and I had them Thursday. So I did have some downtime, but if you replace them all, you'll only incur this once. They charge shipping, but you'll save by placing one large order rather than several small ones.
2. I would have saved on fluid cost. As you know, UDT2 isn't cheap, and a few of my hoses failed pretty dramatically. By the time I got back to the barn, I had lost a gallon or more (each time). If you work this into a fluid change, you won't have any extra loss.
3. The mess factor. I make a bigger mess than most, but even if you're a neatnik you'll need a catch can, gloves, rags, etc. each time. Might as well do it once and be done.

Hints:
1. Make dadgum sure you mark 'em before you take them off. Sometimes you have to remove one to get it out of the way of the one you're working on. If you get a couple crossed, you'll use words you have haven't in years.
2. Buy a few bolts for sizing. If you buy hoses on-line you'll have to provide hose size, length, and ends. My hoses were mostly 3/8 (#6), but some had #6 and some had #8 JIC fittings.
Your hose ends will probably be JIC flare type, with these bolt size and thread:
#4 7/16-20
#6 9/16-18
#8 3/4-16
( I haven't figured out how a Japanese standard uses Imperial threads, but . . .)
3. You may want to get some hose protector. Besides protecting the hose from rubbing, it breaks up the leak stream which can penetrate the skin if it directly hits your skin under full pressure.

 

[DustyRusty]

I will second what PoTreeBoy has said, and I will add that it will be a lot easier if you take a lot of pictures at various angles, and also use manilla tags with wire wrapped around both ends of the hose along with a matching number/letter for identification purposes. When you take one hose off, then photograph the ID tag and where it went on both ends. This is important because you will have possibly as many as 20 different hoses you will be dealing with. I remember when I re-hosed my 1964 Minneapolis Moline TLB and those hoses were extremely long and heavy. I lucked out having a friend that would pick up a pair of hoses in the evening and the next evening drop off the new hoses. I would install those and then take another pair off until the job was done. Once I had all the hoses done, I found that I had leaking cylinders, and he also rebuilt them. I only had to pay for materials, and his labor was free. If I had to pay for everything, it would have been less expensive to buy a new machine.