Broken 3PT Hitch Feedback Rod on B3030HSDC

Chaldaean

Member

Equipment
B3030HSDC
Apr 24, 2016
32
4
8
Seacoast, NH
I found that the "Feedback Arm" controlling the three point hitch is broken. I have ordered a new one and have two questions:

(1) Why would this break? Is there a lot of load on it or is this a symptom of another issue?
(2) Any tips on replacement?

Thanks,

- Josh

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North Idaho Wolfman

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No stress at all,
Is the Eye (040) in the arm spinning easily, that is where it will bind and cause a break.
 

DustyRusty

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The rule of thumb is that if the dealer has it in stock, then they fail often. If you have to go to Coleman or Messicks and they have a bunch in stock, they fail often. If it is a factory order, then it is rare that they fail. Messicks doesn't even recognize the part number you have listed above.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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GreensvilleJay

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I agree with NIW, the eye ! It probably never ever saw an ounce of oil ,got rusted up and 'froze' bending the rod until it broke.
look at the rust on the horizontal bar with flat behind.........
 

Chaldaean

Member

Equipment
B3030HSDC
Apr 24, 2016
32
4
8
Seacoast, NH
Is the Eye (040) in the arm spinning easily, that is where it will bind and cause a break.
You are correct! That pin is seized. I've started hitting it with penetrating oil and have ordered a new one. That is going to be a bit of a bugger to remove as there isn't much working room. Thank you!
 

GreensvilleJay

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if (IF ??) you have room, gently heat it up with a propane torch then add some oil,wait 3-7 steamboats, then try to rotate the pin 040 with vicegrips. When it moves, add some more oil and/or heat, twist and it should come out.
when you install new one coat it with Neverseize,install, rotate it several times, remove, reintall,spin it again....then whenever you do 'greasegun detail', put a couple drops of oil on the pin.....

sure looks a whole lot easier (and cheaper ) than the Mid PTO bearings thread !
 
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Chaldaean

Member

Equipment
B3030HSDC
Apr 24, 2016
32
4
8
Seacoast, NH
Well, after three days of frequent applications of penetrating oil (PB Blaster and Kriol) and focused heat (I used a small torch as I was afraid of melting something adjacent with a bigger torch), I was making some baby steps, but the pin was still stuck. I ended up removing the circlip on the lifting arm and just removed the entire lifting arm. It came out pretty easily. Now I have full access to clean up the bore in the lifting arm in preparation for the new pin. It would be neat to install a remote zerk, but I probably won't go to that length. I also thought about cutting a few circumferential grooves in the pin (with a Dremel or similar) to allow more grease to reside in the bore.
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DustyRusty

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Nov 8, 2015
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I sure hope that the spline has an indexing tooth, or you are going to be putting it on and off a few times till you get it correct. Probably should have indexed it first with a black marker before removing it. Good luck, but hoping that you don't need it and it goes back to gether with ease.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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Sandpoint, ID
Kind of easy to align, just need to match the other side. ;)
Anti seize will go along way to keep it from doing to again.
 

Chaldaean

Member

Equipment
B3030HSDC
Apr 24, 2016
32
4
8
Seacoast, NH
It's all back together!

I used a torch to heat the lift arm and punch out the seized pin. The pin measures around 0.392", so I used a 10mm drill bit to remove the rust in the bore in the lift arm. It may wear off quickly, but I painted the ID of the bore as an extra measure for corrosion resistance. After a generous application of anit-seize, everything was reassembled. The length of the feedback rod was adjusted per the service manual which says there should be 5-10mm of "free play" when the lift arms are at full height.

All in all, it wasn't a bad job. Taking off the lift arm made the process much easier.

Thanks for all the help!

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North Idaho Wolfman

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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Jun 9, 2013
24,805
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113
Sandpoint, ID
Well we know now the true cause of the breakage, it was trying to get away from that green implement! :ROFLMAO:

Good to hear you got it going! 😁
 
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chim

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L4240HSTC with FEL, Ford 1210
Jan 19, 2013
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Near Lancaster, PA, USA
First of all, congrats on the repair.

I was recently given a cart that would almost be a twin to the SS cart in your picture. Can't tell from the pic, but mine has a lip on three sides and none on the one long side.

The kitchen crew at our church tossed it because it was so loosey goosey. Acted like it was made of rubber. I laid it on my welding table, squared it up and spent a little quality tie with the wirefeed welder It made a huge difference.

Could those angled gussets on the bottom of the legs on your cart be for that purpose? Mine was assembled with rivets that worked themselves loose.
 

Chaldaean

Member

Equipment
B3030HSDC
Apr 24, 2016
32
4
8
Seacoast, NH
Well we know now the true cause of the breakage, it was trying to get away from that green implement!
I was wondering if I'd get ribbed for the attachment color!

From your experience, it sounds like I should dig deeper and try to lube the inboard shaft before it seizes up, too. Thanks for this link -- misery loves company!

...Could those angled gussets on the bottom of the legs on your cart be for that purpose? Mine was assembled with rivets that worked themselves loose.
My cart is bolted together. I also got mine for free and it's a bit bent, which is nice -- I don't have to be to fussy with it. It's a Uline service cart: https://www.uline.com/BL_2496/Stainless-Steel-Service-Carts

The joys of living near the ocean! 😠
Yeah, my 1997 LX450 just died of frame/rocker rust! It's a constant struggle with the ocean and the salted roads in the Winter.