On Sunday, my BX22 died suddenly, and I assumed that I was out of fuel, since the fuel gauge has never been accurate. I put fuel into the tank, and cranked for about a minute, but it wouldn't catch. I slid under the tractor and unplugged the fuel pump and then reinstalled the connector, and I believe that I can hear the fuel pump faintly. Tried starting the engine again, but nothing. I then started to think that the engine stop solenoid was defective, so I removed it and put power (+) to the red wire, and (-) to the black wire using a seperate battery supply. The solenoid pulled in, so I assumed that it was good. Then I plugged the solenoid back into its connector, and turned the key on, but it didn't pull the solenoid in, like it did when I tested it the first time. I unplugged the solenoid, and using a test light, I confirmed that there was power at the red wire, and that the ground was good. Then I plugged the solenoid back into the connector, hoping that it would pull in the plunger. It didn't, and when I went to remove it, it was very warm. I then checked it again with my battery, and this time, the solenoid didn't pull in. At this point, I believe that the stop solenoid is defective, however, when I tried to start the tractor with the stop solenoid removed, it still didn't fire. I am not certain where to go from here. I have ordered new filters, fuel pump, and a stop solenoid, which won't be here till next week. Any suggestions, or anything else that I should check. The tractor has 800.2 hours on it, and has had regular maintenance. Till today, it has been perfect in every way. Thanks for your assistance.
2004 BX22 died suddenly
- Thread starter DustyRusty
- Start date
If it wouldn't start with the shut off solenoid removed, that might eliminate that as your problem. Shutting off the engine is all it does. Nowhere in your post did you mention bleeding the injectors. If you did run it out of fuel, it ain't going to start without having done that.
Actually shutting off the engine is not all the solenoid does on a BX22 or BX2200.
The solenoid is energized to keep the engine running. It has two coils, one that is a pull in coil, that is operated by the starter circuit, and a second hold coil that is energized through the key switch.
I had the same thing happen on my BX2200 this summer. If the engine will start, but shut off immediately when the key is released back to the run position, it is likely a failed solenoid hold coil.
If the engine will not start at all, it could be a failed solenoid pull in coil, or something else.
Since the OP said the engine would not start with the solenoid removed, it sounds like the solenoid is not the problem. With the solenoid out of the picture, I believe the engine should start and run normally, but not shut down. I did not try this with my tractor. I do know if the solenoid is unplugged the tractor will not turn over, as the solenoid is part of the starter solenoid circuit.
PS...The original post is extremely difficult to read, being all in one block. Should be separated into separate paragraphs for easier understanding.
armylifer
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Bleeding the air out of the fuel lines should be the first thing on his troubleshooting list. As rentthis mentioned, if the OP did run out of fuel then the engine will not start without bleeding the air out of the fuel lines.
xrocketengineer
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armylifer
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I did not take the time to watch the video you posted but instead I will reiterate what I posted earlier. If you run out of fuel you will have to bleed the lines 99% of the time.
RCW
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My BX2360 requires 30 (?) seconds of lift pump runtime, then start as usual.
Not sure same applies to a BX22 or a different procedure is needed for bleeding.
Honestly, the OP has so many things in the works, I’m not sure where to start with suggestions.
Not sure same applies to a BX22 or a different procedure is needed for bleeding.
Honestly, the OP has so many things in the works, I’m not sure where to start with suggestions.
Can the tractor be safely pulled to a new location about 40 feet away.? Right now, it is stuck in the middle of the driveway.
It is necessary to do something to get fuel up to the injectors and into the cylinders. What that something is depends on the model tractor you have. As noted in the video, in the newer model tractors, cracking the injector lines could be not only unnecessary, but a really bad idea. Each model has the proper procedure described in the owners manual. It will usually be described in the maintenance section under changing the fuel filter. The differences in models that affect this are types of fuel pumps present, height of fuel tank relative to fuel pumps and engine, and design of fuel line circuits.
armylifer
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DustyRusty, whatever you do to get the tractor started, please followup and let us know what you did to get it going again.
whitetiger
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Recheck your shut off solenoid using the correct procedure as shown in the attachment.
You will need to loosen the fuel pipes at the injectors on the top of the cylinder head, crank the engine for no more than 10 seconds at a time until you see fuel coming from the tubes. Let the starter cool between crank intervals.
You will need to loosen the fuel pipes at the injectors on the top of the cylinder head, crank the engine for no more than 10 seconds at a time until you see fuel coming from the tubes. Let the starter cool between crank intervals.
I always do this, because I feel that it is rude not to. It is important for others that might also encounter a similar problem to know the resolution in order to fix their machine.
I have ordered a new stop solenoid, fuel pump, and filters, and when they arrive, I will install them. I have already verified that the stop solenoid is defective, using the instructions provided by "whitetiger", and I thank him for providing these much needed instructions. All the parts have shipped, and are expected by next Wednesday, and after that I will reply.
In the meantime, I still need to know if it is OK to pull the tractor off of the driveway with the transmission in neutral. I don't want to do any damage to the tractor, and that is why I am asking the people with this knowledge.
Thanks
DustyRusty
armylifer
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There should not be any problem with towing it in neutral as long as there are no dragging implements or attachments impeding it.
Actually with a BX this is not the case. Fill the tank, turn the switch to the on position, let the pump run for 20 or 30 seconds, then it should start without issue if the only issue is running out of fuel.
This procedure has been posted here by people that actually work on these tractors regularly, like Lugbolt and Whitetiger. I think I remember Lugbolt posting this procedure, and have used the same a few times on my BX over the years.
I can not imagine any damage resulting from moving the tractor in neutral (with the brake disengaged).
No different in my mind than letting it coast down a slope in neutral...
Of course, you need to hook your strap to (or push on) something that will not be damaged
armylifer
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As you pointed out the manual has a procedure for bleeding air from the fuel lines. I have followed this procedure when changing my fuel filters but at least on my tractor it did not work. I had to crack the fuel lines at the injector before it would start, both times that I changed my fuel filters. Anyway, just for information here is the procedure copied straight from the manual.
Bleeding Fuel System
Air must removed:
1. When the fuel filter (2) or lines are removed.
2. When tank is completely empty.
3. After the tractor has not been used for a long period of time.
Bleeding procedure is as follows:
1. Fill the fuel tank with fuel.
2. Turn the key switch to “ON” position for about 30 seconds.
Doing so allows fuel pump (1) to work and pump air out of the fuel
system.
3. Start the engine and run for about 30 seconds, and then stop the
engine
All I know is that the procedure worked for me several times over the years and also for a friend that has a BX22. Not sure why it did not work for you, armylifer.
armylifer
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I don't know either but a local friend of mine suggested something to me that I will try the next time I change my filters. He suggested changing the rear filter first and then try starting the tractor and let it run for a minute or so. Then shut it off and change the filter in the engine compartment and try starting it and letting it run. It makes sense to me that it may work that way if I am letting too much air in the line by changing both filters before trying to start.
Another suggestion that I read about was to let fuel flow through the new filters before clamping the line on the outlet side of the new filters. That made sense too. I will try that next time too.
One other thought came to mind about the OP's problem. He needs to be sure that the new filters are installed in the correct orientation. The inlet and outlet side of the filters have a different resistance to fuel flow and if installed incorrectly the fuel meets with too much resistance to all fuel to flow with enough pressure to start the engine.
whitetiger
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Change both fuel filters, then before cranking the engine, turn the key switch to the Run position. Let the fuel pump run with the engine off as it will circulate the fuel through the system and push all the air into the tank. After 30 seconds, start the engine.
I have been servicing over 100 BXs a year for several years. This always works to bleed the fuel system.
Usually, when you run a BX out of fuel, you can use the same process to restart, not always. There are a few BXs out there with an attitude.
