Tried that, and nothing happened. I honestly can't think that the filters would clog without some advance "notice" of loss of power. I am waiting for the new fuel pump, which I believe is the culprit. Then it is just a matter of getting a good dry day to change everything. thanks for the help.
2004 BX22 died suddenly
- Thread starter DustyRusty
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My fuel pump is stuck in transit, so since my filters arrived, I changed the one closest to the engine today. Then I went underneath to change out the fiter between the tank and the pump, and wanted to check the power to the pump again, and turned the key on. Checked for power, and it has 12 volts, and I realize that the pump is now clicking. Check the new filter, and no oil coming into it. Now I am wondering if it is a clog at the tank, or is it the filter. Could I damage anything if I were to put some low air pressure to the line from the tank? If I can hear bubbling in the tank, that will eliminate the clogged line question. Is it possible that the pump quit, but it still making a sound like it is pumping?
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Russell King
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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
I don’t completely understand your question but the pump will always try to pump when it is energized and has no outlet pressure.
Loosen the fuel cap or lay a rag over the fuel tank inlet and blow low pressure air through the hose. But I would not blow through the filters or pump. Else you may damage them
Loosen the fuel cap or lay a rag over the fuel tank inlet and blow low pressure air through the hose. But I would not blow through the filters or pump. Else you may damage them
armylifer
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BX1860, FEL, RCK54P MMM, BB1548 Box Scraper, Quick Hitch, Piranha Bar, BX6315
I agree with Russell King's first statement. His second statement has merit too because you may have a clogged fuel cap. If the cap is not venting properly you will not get fuel flow.
I have run into the same situation that you describe after changing my fuel filters and the way I resolved the issue was to crack the fuel lines at the injectors and crank until I got fuel coming out of the fuel lines at the injectors. You do them one line at a time, not all at once. I know that some have said you don't need to do that but I have found that to be the easiest way to verify fuel at the injector and to get the engine to start.
One more thing, make sure that your fuel tank is full, not just a couple of gallons in the tank. It helps to have a full tank because that will help your fuel pump provide enough pressure to overcome any air that is in the fuel lines.
I have run into the same situation that you describe after changing my fuel filters and the way I resolved the issue was to crack the fuel lines at the injectors and crank until I got fuel coming out of the fuel lines at the injectors. You do them one line at a time, not all at once. I know that some have said you don't need to do that but I have found that to be the easiest way to verify fuel at the injector and to get the engine to start.
One more thing, make sure that your fuel tank is full, not just a couple of gallons in the tank. It helps to have a full tank because that will help your fuel pump provide enough pressure to overcome any air that is in the fuel lines.
My parts finally arrived, and I got both filters installed today, and found that the filter before the pump was clogged. Checked the line from the tank, and the fuel flowed freely, so I know that there is no blockage in that line. Put everything back together, and the original pump wouldn't pump, so I attempted remove it to install the new pump. Problem is that it is bolted on from the top side, and it is difficult to get any leverage on the bolts. Decided that a heart bypass was in order, and left the old pump in place, and installed the new pump with a wire tie. I will do a permanent fix once the weather warms up. The only way that I can get to it would be to remove the cab, and then the floor pan. Not going to do that, going to use my cutoff wheel to cut the bolts off, and put new brass bolts in their place. That way, the next time it needs to be replaced, rust won't be an issue. Thanks to all for the help, and the tractor is self priming.
Glad you got it working!......... I highly suggest draining and cleaning out your fuel tank since the filter was severely clogged.
Also THINK POSITIVE about replacing the "new" fuel pump because most of these machines go to the grave with the original fuel pump.
TIP! Before you cut off the rusty bolts spray some KROIL on them and let it "soak in" for a day....... Hopefully they come off easily.
I borrowed a pump / filter assembly that a friend uses on his sea going boat to "polish" my fuel. Pumped it out of the tank, and through the filters into a clean container, and then from the container back through the filters and into the tank. Also drained out what the pump couldn't reach in the tank. I am certain that the fuel in the tank is cleaner than the fuel at the local station.
I use Seafoam Deep Creep for a penetrant, and the problem is that it is next to impossible to get a wrench onto the head of the bolt, and turn it, since there is no room for a long wrench, and i can't get enough leverage on a short wrench to break it loose. I will let the penetrating oil do its work over the winter, and give it another try in the spring, when it is warm outside. These machines were assembled with impact guns, and the bolts are extremely tight. I wouldn't doubt that they also use a thread locker on them, because of the vibrations of the machine loosening them otherwise.