Well, my research told me it was not heavy enough... Anyone want a Grand L5740HST

Eric McCarthy

Eric McCarthy

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Im supprised nobody has picked up on his comment of putting on the forks to off load the bales...

Are you using clamp on forks that affix to the loader bucket? Causing extra weight out front or are these pallet forks where the bucket comes off and those go on? Much like the ones used on a skid steer?

Either way its probably too much added weight way out front when a simple bale spear is all thats needed.


Sounds to me like the wrong equipment is being used.

To clear up the matter post a photo of what your using to move round bales with.
 
A

Apogee

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Jeff set the thing up properly. Check out the pics I've attached from his other thread.

Nice tractor!

I'd be bummed also, except I DO think that for the other 90% of what it will be used for the shorter wheelbase and lighter weight will prove to be an advantage.

I think D2's suggestion is the best one. Just get a second spear for the rear and carry two bales at once. Once you get the hang of it, moving one at a time will seem pretty darn slow. I'm also guessing the turning radius might be tighter on the Kubota and that will prove an advantage over time.

If it were me, I'd be setting that thing up with a quick hitch and ballast box on the rear anyway. The additional weight on the rear will help when using the bucket anyway. With a quick hitch, swapping the ballast box for the box blade or mower when you need to will only take a minute.

If your heart is really set on the Mahindra then you might as well sell the Kubota. However, since you've already sold the Deere, and now want to sell the Kubota, perhaps expectations are not realistic? If you're moving bales that are that heavy, you REALLY should have some ballast on the rear from a safety perspective. No, filled tires are not enough. You need some weight out on the 3pt. With something that heavy out in front and no weight off the back, let's say you hit a hole, you could end up in a world of hurt VERY quickly. I say this regardless of the tractor color.

No matter the tractor, if you eventually end up with a ballast box or a second spear anyway, then your research and decision will ultimately turn out to have been the correct. Shorter and lighter will prove to more efficient in the long run and is just easier to live with all around. It also won't tear up your land like a heavier unit will so you won't be forced to be regrading all of time. It's all a trade off.

You bought a VERY nice tractor. I hope it ultimately works out for you and that you don't hate it every time you use or look at it. If you do feel that way, might as well dump it as your mind's already made up and no matter how it performs it will never be good enough.

Finally, even on the Mahindra site it shows using a second bale as ballast. I would suggest them moving them around that way is no accident. See pic. That 5010 Mahindra in the pic is a big tractor. While nice, it would be a pain in the neck to live with over time due to its size. I'd choose what you did 100x over that.

Good luck with whatever you decide,

Steve
 

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coachgeo

coachgeo

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jeffb said:
Thanks, I watched and noticed your rear wheels come off the ground on the 4th bale.
Click to expand...
Just go switch to a JD that is only way you'll be happy. Can understand the frustration. At this point you'll never be satisfied; not due to Kubota issues, but due to you have made up your mind. Not saying that is a bad thing (except to your pocket)

PS- using slow motion at 1/4 speed analysis; tires did not lift on the 4th bale cept when he plunked it down. There is a dip in the terrain
 
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ShaunRH

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jeffb said:
Thanks, I watched and noticed your rear wheels come off the ground on the 4th bale.
Click to expand...
On the other bales the driver carefully set the bale down on the trailer, on the 4th he banged it. Any tractor in that size class will do that as the forces in play will be too large, notice that the rears set right back down, instantly, no float, no tipsy. The G forces exacted on the bale made it 1.5x to 2 times it's normal weight. You'd have to have a tractor weighing 1.5x to 2 times as much to stop it from happening.

It's standard operation: be gentle with heavy loads. I'll show you pictures and videos of mining wheel loaders on their nose and sides from mishandled loads and you don't get much heavier machines than those...

I think you have an expectation of how a tractor of that size class should work under very heavy loads that isn't in line with the size class. Yes, the JD and Mahindra units may do what you want, but even they would bounce the rears in that situation. You would actually be better served going up an entire class and power level to meet your expectation, especially if moving bales is a majority of what you do with the unit. If it's a small amount of time of what the unit does, and your current other duties for the unit are met by the tractor you currently have, then maybe you can adjust the expectation a bit to fit what you have.

It's all up to you, but just make sure you're happy with your tractor. It sounds like you aren't so take the loss, get the larger unit and move on. At the end of the day, it doesn't matter what color the paint is so long as you are happy with it.
 
BAP

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What it boils down to, is anybody can read the literature, compare specs, and buy a tractor. However, to be a good, safe operator of a tractor, it takes more than reading. A good operator can make their tractor do everything they want it to do and do it safely. They know the limitations of their machine and what to do to keep safe. A good operator knows, that if the end of the round bale they are lifting is as far or farther from the front axle, than the rear axle is from the front, then you need enough weight on the back to balance it out the load. Lifting capacity of the loader, is not the only factor to consider whether or not the tractor is set up to handle the load. Having enough counter weight is the key factor. That can be accomplished by either adding wheel weights, weight box or some other weight on the 3 point hitch. The other alternative, is to trade up to a tractor that natural has enough weight to handle the load. However, making a concrete counter weight for the 3pt hitch, is way cheaper than a new tractor. Easy to use if you put a 3pt quick coupler on the tractor and set the weight up for the hitch.
 
T

TexasBoy

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jeffb said:
Thanks, I watched and noticed your rear wheels come off the ground on the 4th bale.
Click to expand...
That was only due to dropping the bale so fast it had inertia behind it. You push the joystick 'down' too fast with a full 6' bale and stop it mid-air you can expect a reaction.
 
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