resurfacing flywheel mm reference values

olthumpa

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I think if I keep beating the bushes about this, Al Gore and Greenpeace are going to hunt me down for destroying another rain forest. :eek:
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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How bad do you really need the clutch???:p

Just bolt it all together and run it tell it stops!;)
 

olthumpa

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How bad do you really need the clutch???:p

Just bolt it all together and run it tell it stops!;)
The pto clutch I do not need in the winter but I REALLY could have used it this fall. The drive clutch had started to slip a little under heavy load in 1st and 2nt, that Is why I dove into it when I had the rear end all apart. I thought it would be an easy check and replace in needed at that time. Little did I know.:rolleyes:
 

Apogee

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all have the same 2.0mm rise from where the assembly bolts down and where the first stage clutch disc makes contact. They also all have the same tolerance or +- 0.05mm.
I have bolted up the clutch assembly to the flywheel without putting in the first stage clutch disk and bolted up the transmission and the second stage, (pto clutch), disengages properly. Clutch peddle free play is also much closer to what it should be.

I think I am going to go with a suggestion I got from a machinist yesterday. His suggestion was to make 3 new assembly rod releases, part #10, a little shorter thereby lifting the levers in the middle up further making contact with the bearing sooner and allowing for further compression. These lengths would have to be exact.
Why not just have the flywheel machined flat to remove the rise? It seems to me that the clutch disks might be thicker than the originals were. I bet if the height of the original housing was measured, one would find that it's a few mm taller than the replacement. What I'm wondering is if the replacement is designed to work with a flat flywheel rather than one with a rise. Might be easier (and cheaper) than having new arms machined.

Is there any way to contact the actual clutch pack manufacturer? Would seem to me that they'd be able to tell you what they designed it to fit (flywheel that's flat vs rise).
 
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olthumpa

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Why not just have the flywheel machined flat to remove the rise? It seems to me that the clutch disks might be thicker than the originals were. I bet if the height of the original housing was measured, one would find that it's a few mm taller than the replacement. What I'm wondering is if the replacement is designed to work with a flat flywheel rather than one with a rise. Might be easier (and cheaper) than having new arms machined.

Is there any way to contact the actual clutch pack manufacturer? Would seem to me that they'd be able to tell you what they designed it to fit (flywheel that's flat vs rise).
The clutch cover for the first stage has a 2mm grove machined into the inside so that when it is bolted to the flywheel it locks it in place preventing centrifugal force from moving it around. Also, with a tolerance of 0.05mm, you would have to machine it down in stages,(70$ per machining), or risk having to replace the flywheel and start all over.

The replacement is designed to be used with a rise in the flywheel per Kubota Corp USA.

I have left several messages with A&I and have not got a call back yet.

Thanks for the response.
 

m32825

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Is there any kind of machinist's trick you can use to see what portions of the parts are making contact when everything is assembled?

-- Carl
 

olthumpa

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Is there any kind of machinist's trick you can use to see what portions of the parts are making contact when everything is assembled?

-- Carl
When I took it to the dealer they used a camera attached to a flexible optic fiber to look inside everywhere they could.

Thanks for the reply.
 

BAP

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Any progress with your clutch?
 

olthumpa

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Any progress with your clutch?
Just got it back from a machines at 5:00pm tonight. After working his magic, using a press in his shop the second stage disengages with travel left in the arms but still should have enough clearance before contacting the bearing. Will be bolting it up tomorrow and updating how/if it is working.

Thanks for asking.:)
 

olthumpa

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"The new phone book's here! The new phone book's here! ..."
Steve Martin, in the movie, The Jerk

Well, that about sums up my mood right now!:D

Bolted and torqued the fly wheel and clutch assembly in the tractor. Double, triple checked adjustments, bolted up trans. Something must be wrong.:eek: BOTH stages disengage as they should with plenty of adjustments to play with.:cool:

It is amazing what you can do in about three months with 4 different clutch assemblies, two different suppliers, countless hours of frustration, a running thread with over 100 posts and about $300 to have the last assembly checked out by a machinist to clean up bad machining by the manufacture and fabricate some new parts.

All in all, about what you would expect to swap out a clutch assembly!

Tomorrow I start to put the rest of the tractor back together. Hopefully there will not be any major hangups, I know there is bound to be some small ones.

Again, I would like to thank everyone for their time and patients in helping me through this.
 

BAP

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We all love success stories and helping fellow orange owners.
 

m32825

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Wow, way to hang in there. I read every post in the thread, you had a lot of people rooting for you! :)

-- Carl
 

Apogee

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I've been waiting patiently to hear more about this...

Great news!!!!

So what did he do exactly? Curious if he machined new assembly rod releases like you mentioned? If he did, it would be great if you posted the dimensions of the new one(s) so the next person who runs into this knows what to do for a fix.

Hope it works!!!!

Steve
 
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olthumpa

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I've been waiting patiently to hear more about this...

Great news!!!!

So what did he do exactly? Curious if he machined new assembly rod releases like you mentioned? If he did, it would be great if you posted the dimensions of the new one(s) so the next person who runs into this knows what to do for a fix.

Hope it works!!!!

Steve
I will post details in a couple days. :)
 

BAP

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How is the tractor going?
 

olthumpa

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How is the tractor going?
Have to bolt the fenders, seat, steering column, fuel tank, floor boards and hood back on. Have not done these yet because I have a couple of gremlins in the electrical system that I meed to fix and it is easier to have these parts out of the way to work on the electrical. These parts were removed to replace the clutch and rear differential anyways. Everything else is done. Linkage all adjusted, all fluids and filters changes, everything greased.

Thanks for asking.:)