I have a BX15 with a 54 inch mid mower my question is should I cut in low gear or hi gear it seems to cut ok in both just slower in low range I have been cutting in hi but just wanted to ask the pros thanks
Question about cutting grass
- Thread starter Shellfish
- Start date
I like low range, but I have a lot of things to mow around, trees, pond, etc. If I were cutting a larger area then it would be high all the way! My deck doesn't seem to care, but if I don't put the deck on and just use the three point finish mower, it seems to cut better at slower ground speeds.
Jerry
Jerry
Ok that's pretty much what I have been doing low range around things in close quarters and high range when on open ground thanks for the reply.
85Hokie
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That is a excellent question - the real answer is what will the machine handle and how "well" is the grass being cut.
1 Some of us want to cut grass as fast as possible
2 Some want a manicured lawn
3 Some want 1 and 2 !
Here is what you really need to understand, as the mower moves, assuming the blade rev's are constant, it will cut a certain amount of grass per unit of time.
Let's say in low, you are coving 4' a second, and in high - let's say 8' per second, the more the blades are allowed to "cut" - the better the grass will look. However, once the grass IS cut, the rest of the blade is not cutting but discharging the grass out the side, so at a certain point, going too slow will not help the situation, but going to fast will allow some grass not to be cut properly.
Gonna assume you are on a HST with a high/low range?
You could always leaving IT HIGH and then back off a bit with the pedal, rather than push the pedal to the floor in low. I would also look at engine rpm as a factor - the faster the engine spins, the faster the blades will spin - the blades are designed to cut at a certain angular velocity to achieve that "perfect" cut, too slow and it tears the grass, too fast......well not sure what happens to the grass!
Only you will see what seems to work the best, the only problem I see in cutting in high gear wide open is the fact that you would be moving across the grass at a rate that will not allow all the blades to be cut and then discharged.
Either way - the machine will not be under any strain unless you are in very thick, wet stuff!
Good question. As I was mowing grass for the first time I started in low gear ... Cut looked good . Hit the long open stretches I put it in high gear moved along. My question is as I'm still in break in period what rpm should I be mowing at . I was running 2200.i tried searching but for some reason the search box closes as soon as it opens
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RCW
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For the OP - I usually mow in high range. Last few years, I've been mowing my own lawn, plus two others. Probably 2.5 acres total - so been looking to get done sooner than later.....
For Mike - your rated PTO RPM is probably around 3,100 or so. I personally run my BX2360 ~2,500-2,800. Most guys run WOT, or darn near it. I run less than that.
Even in your break-in - I'd give it some more throttle.
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I have a question regarding the mid-mount mowers also. I have a 3 point finish mower and it rides on it's own wheels behind the tractor. Do the mid mount mowers ride on their wheels as well or are they suspended by the tractor and the wheels are just anti-scalping devices? I know on riding mowers and tractors the latter is common.
jmf78
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BX23S W/ Factory Deluxe Cab, 60" MMM, 60" BX-2612 Snow Blade & BX-2816 Blower
I vary the ground speed and RPM's to match conditions. It's more of a feel than a set in stone approach. The length of the grass when cut is a big part, but the grass changes in composition over the mowing season. Sometimes it's lush and almost juicy and othe times it's on the dry side.
I mowed in the rain on Saturday because it was getting ahead of me and the weather forecast was for rain most of this week. For that, I did some quick welding on a 25 year-old Caroni 5' RFM and hooked it up to the old Ford. After some work to free the casters so they would rotate, it was time to get the rain suit on and go for it. The old side-discharge Caroni is the only deck I've had that does well on wet grass. The best results were at 2,000 RPM (well below rated PTO speed) and hydro pedal down in high.
The Ford still looks like it did 5 years ago when the L3200 was delivered. The L3200 looks altogether different since I built the cab, and the B7500 was sold.
I mowed in the rain on Saturday because it was getting ahead of me and the weather forecast was for rain most of this week. For that, I did some quick welding on a 25 year-old Caroni 5' RFM and hooked it up to the old Ford. After some work to free the casters so they would rotate, it was time to get the rain suit on and go for it. The old side-discharge Caroni is the only deck I've had that does well on wet grass. The best results were at 2,000 RPM (well below rated PTO speed) and hydro pedal down in high.
The Ford still looks like it did 5 years ago when the L3200 was delivered. The L3200 looks altogether different since I built the cab, and the B7500 was sold.
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I have a B2650 and the 60" deck rides on the ground and gives a great cut, I have also used it suspended in some rough places with good results but the deck is designed to ride on the ground.
jmf78
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BX23S W/ Factory Deluxe Cab, 60" MMM, 60" BX-2612 Snow Blade & BX-2816 Blower
I know nothing about the B series (which was apparently what the question was asked about) but my BX series manual list the wheels as anti-scalp rollers with rollers to clear the ground between .2 and .5 inches. The cutting height dial is what controls your cut height (obviously).I have a B2650 and the 60" deck rides on the ground and gives a great cut, I have also used it suspended in some rough places with good results but the deck is designed to ride on the ground.
Not saying you're wrong, just posting for future reference of others with BX series MMM's.
Obviously, higher gear will use less fuel. The folks who suggest moving too fast can cause poor cutting may have dull blades.
A lot of folks forget that dull blades are a MUCH higher contributor to poor cutting than groundspeed. (Given the blade-speed is correct) If you keep the blades sharp as a razor.... your groundspeed can be as high as the equipment can stand and it will still cut very well.
i keep at least TWO sets of blades and the unused ones are kept sharp. They always ready to bolt on. A couple minutes with a 80 grit flap-wheel will keep blades sharp if you sharpen them several times a season.
A lot of folks forget that dull blades are a MUCH higher contributor to poor cutting than groundspeed. (Given the blade-speed is correct) If you keep the blades sharp as a razor.... your groundspeed can be as high as the equipment can stand and it will still cut very well.
i keep at least TWO sets of blades and the unused ones are kept sharp. They always ready to bolt on. A couple minutes with a 80 grit flap-wheel will keep blades sharp if you sharpen them several times a season.
BruceP, I disagree with this, " If you keep the blades sharp as a razor...." They don't come new razor sharp, and if they did they would not stay that way after a few minutes.
Sharp Advice
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Mower blade sharpening has been taken to a much higher level than that of years ago. Almost to the point of a science. Todays mowers are designed to multiple cut the grass blades. (Grass Cuttings/Clippings)
The decks of todays mowers are designed with a domed and/or crowned designed. This design is there to provide space for the cuttings/clippings to be flipped upwards well above the rotating cutting blade.
As the clippings/cuttings fall back down, they are recut multiple times. Providing a mulching effect. Therefore, not fully discharging all of the clippings/cuttings into the grass catcher. Some are left behind to degrade into a natural fertilizer.
Thus, the blade and deck design each play a part in how the cuttings are handled, once the cut is made. A mowers blade angles and cutting surfaces are designed into the cutting method and process. The cutting angle and edge are very important. More so than simply the blades sharpness.
A dull blade will sever the grass blades. Leaving the grasses tiny veins sticking upwards. A day or so later, the grass will appear brown or slightly browned out. A sharp mower blade will create a straight clean scissor like cut. Reducing the browning or eliminating the browning effect all together.
To obtain a more perfect resharpening, follow and maintain the original angle on the straight edge of the blade. If there is a curved edge inwards towards the center of the blade, follow and maintain that angle also. The intent is keep the blade cutting as it was originally designed to. Which allows the deck to also do it's part and not leave stringy grass blade veins behind.
How sharp is sharp? Good question. The answer is not too sharp. An overly sharpened blade will dull much faster than one that is just sharpened to be be sharp. The angle must be maintained and the edge not razor sharp.
All that is needed on the outer most cutting edge when resharpening is to cleanup the dulled cutting edged surface, while maintaining the original upwards sloping angle. The inner angled cutting surface can be resharpend on a belt sander. As can the straight cutting edge.
Once the cutting surfaces are cleaned up (resurfaced) to be sharp, balance the blade and reinstall it as it was originally installed.
Sharpen the blade once prior to first grass growing season. Than, once at the end or near the end of the growing season, for best results, on average.
DIY Web Sites Mower Blade Sharpening Link:
http://doityourself.com/lawn/sharpmowerblade.htm
Regards and Good Luck. Sharpening Forum Moderator, Web Site Host & Forums Monitor. Accurate Power Equipment Company. Complete Saw and Tool Sharpening Service.
Sharp Advice
Sharp Advice is offline Admin, Forums Host & Manager
Join Date
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10,440
Mower blade sharpening has been taken to a much higher level than that of years ago. Almost to the point of a science. Todays mowers are designed to multiple cut the grass blades. (Grass Cuttings/Clippings)
The decks of todays mowers are designed with a domed and/or crowned designed. This design is there to provide space for the cuttings/clippings to be flipped upwards well above the rotating cutting blade.
As the clippings/cuttings fall back down, they are recut multiple times. Providing a mulching effect. Therefore, not fully discharging all of the clippings/cuttings into the grass catcher. Some are left behind to degrade into a natural fertilizer.
Thus, the blade and deck design each play a part in how the cuttings are handled, once the cut is made. A mowers blade angles and cutting surfaces are designed into the cutting method and process. The cutting angle and edge are very important. More so than simply the blades sharpness.
A dull blade will sever the grass blades. Leaving the grasses tiny veins sticking upwards. A day or so later, the grass will appear brown or slightly browned out. A sharp mower blade will create a straight clean scissor like cut. Reducing the browning or eliminating the browning effect all together.
To obtain a more perfect resharpening, follow and maintain the original angle on the straight edge of the blade. If there is a curved edge inwards towards the center of the blade, follow and maintain that angle also. The intent is keep the blade cutting as it was originally designed to. Which allows the deck to also do it's part and not leave stringy grass blade veins behind.
How sharp is sharp? Good question. The answer is not too sharp. An overly sharpened blade will dull much faster than one that is just sharpened to be be sharp. The angle must be maintained and the edge not razor sharp.
All that is needed on the outer most cutting edge when resharpening is to cleanup the dulled cutting edged surface, while maintaining the original upwards sloping angle. The inner angled cutting surface can be resharpend on a belt sander. As can the straight cutting edge.
Once the cutting surfaces are cleaned up (resurfaced) to be sharp, balance the blade and reinstall it as it was originally installed.
Sharpen the blade once prior to first grass growing season. Than, once at the end or near the end of the growing season, for best results, on average.
DIY Web Sites Mower Blade Sharpening Link:
http://doityourself.com/lawn/sharpmowerblade.htm
Regards and Good Luck. Sharpening Forum Moderator, Web Site Host & Forums Monitor. Accurate Power Equipment Company. Complete Saw and Tool Sharpening Service.
Fair enough I have not experimented with the 'science' of blade-sharpening. I do know many people who feel the need to mow slowly actually have dull blades. However - Blade sharpening is not really the discussion here.
The point is that groundspeed is most often dictated by the condition of the surface which is being mowed. (bumpyness) which can limit how fast you can travel. Having sharp blades will eliminate blades as the limiting-factor for groundspeed.
The question of which gear to use assumes we are talking about groundspeed. (Because engine-speed is dictated by blade-speed) We all wish to get the job done efficiently with least fuel and time. Using higher gear is better to meet that goal.
I have not experimented with the 'science' of blade-sharpening. I do know many people who feel the need to mow slowly actually have dull blades. However - Blade sharpening is not really the discussion here.The point is that groundspeed is most often dictated by the condition of the surface which is being mowed. (bumpyness) which can limit how fast you can travel. Having sharp blades will eliminate blades as the limiting-factor for groundspeed.
The question of which gear to use assumes we are talking about groundspeed. (Because engine-speed is dictated by blade-speed) We all wish to get the job done efficiently with least fuel and time. Using higher gear is better to meet that goal.
There's a lot of variables here.
Low range is easier on the HST-less loading, "slippage" and heat generated. But it's obviously slower. If "wide open" in low range gets it cut like you want it to be cut and it doesn't bore you, go for it. Using low doesn't hurt a thing.
Cut quality. Going too fast will affect cut quality. For one, once the front tires run over the grass, the grass blades will lay down. They need time to stand back up so that they can be cut. Too fast of a travel speed won't let them stand back up and thus cut quality will suffer a little. Type of grass plays into this as well. As does throttle setting/blade speed, how sharp the blades are, air flow under the deck-which is affected by cutting height, and a few other things. Sometimes you have to experiment a little to see what your yard likes. Been down this road with my G1900. Love the little mower but the first year I had it, cut quality was poor poor poor. Ruts, scalps, you name it. Dead spots everywhere. Once I got to playing with the cutting height, deck level, assist spring settings, throttle setting, travel speed, etc-it is now cutting better than anything I've seen come out of the factory in the last 5 years. Only mower I've seen that cuts nicer is the old T1460/T1560 with 40" cut, and it had to be set up properly.
when sharpening blades, make them sharp, but then go back and cut a flat edge across the "sharpened" part of the blade, only needs to be about .025" wide or thereabouts. Seems to work better, and the powder coat on most new blades leaves this flattened cutting edge intact. Also consider that sharpening blades reduces the cutting width slightly, so once they get really dull and you find yourself having to grind quite a bit of material off, throw them out and buy new ones. Or suffer the reduced cut quality. Striping in between blades isn't uncommon with worn out blades.
Deck level. I am finding that with a 3 blade deck, you want the side-to-side to be within 1/8". But when measuring front to rear, you want it to be closer than that-1/16" low in front to zero, measured at your cutting height. Some mowers change pitch as you lift and lower the deck, so you always want to measure at your desired cutting height. And thus, if you change heights, you may have to re-adjust the linkage to achieve zero. If the deck is lower in front, you tend to get 3 stripes, all 3 are about the same width of the blade. Same if the deck is low in the rear. With it at or near zero, you get one stripe the entire width of the combined cutting width of the blades. With the deck low in front, the engine doesn't have to work as hard since the first few 16th's of an inch of the front of the blade is doing most of the cutting. With it at zero, the entire cutting edge does the work which is obviously desirable but also loads the engine a little more. Lower HP mowers can benefit from 1/4" low in front for this reason. AND when measuring, measure the rear of the right and left blade and then the front of the center blade; this is more accurate than just measuring one blade at the front and rear.
blade speed. Speed has a big effect on the quality of cut. And actually on mine, diesel engine, I find that running very close or at full RPM/full throttle uses LESS fuel than running at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. I assume the difference is in the engine loading. On a diesel, the more you load the engine the more fuel-and heat-it will make. At 1/2 throttle it can't make as much blade speed, so when it's loaded in tall grass, the governor takes over and puts more fuel into the engine. At full throttle you have enough blade speed so that it doesn't have to work as hard in "normal" cutting. If you're cutting 3' tall Byhalia, it's going to drink fuel reguardless. You get the idea.
Low range is easier on the HST-less loading, "slippage" and heat generated. But it's obviously slower. If "wide open" in low range gets it cut like you want it to be cut and it doesn't bore you, go for it. Using low doesn't hurt a thing.
Cut quality. Going too fast will affect cut quality. For one, once the front tires run over the grass, the grass blades will lay down. They need time to stand back up so that they can be cut. Too fast of a travel speed won't let them stand back up and thus cut quality will suffer a little. Type of grass plays into this as well. As does throttle setting/blade speed, how sharp the blades are, air flow under the deck-which is affected by cutting height, and a few other things. Sometimes you have to experiment a little to see what your yard likes. Been down this road with my G1900. Love the little mower but the first year I had it, cut quality was poor poor poor. Ruts, scalps, you name it. Dead spots everywhere. Once I got to playing with the cutting height, deck level, assist spring settings, throttle setting, travel speed, etc-it is now cutting better than anything I've seen come out of the factory in the last 5 years. Only mower I've seen that cuts nicer is the old T1460/T1560 with 40" cut, and it had to be set up properly.
when sharpening blades, make them sharp, but then go back and cut a flat edge across the "sharpened" part of the blade, only needs to be about .025" wide or thereabouts. Seems to work better, and the powder coat on most new blades leaves this flattened cutting edge intact. Also consider that sharpening blades reduces the cutting width slightly, so once they get really dull and you find yourself having to grind quite a bit of material off, throw them out and buy new ones. Or suffer the reduced cut quality. Striping in between blades isn't uncommon with worn out blades.
Deck level. I am finding that with a 3 blade deck, you want the side-to-side to be within 1/8". But when measuring front to rear, you want it to be closer than that-1/16" low in front to zero, measured at your cutting height. Some mowers change pitch as you lift and lower the deck, so you always want to measure at your desired cutting height. And thus, if you change heights, you may have to re-adjust the linkage to achieve zero. If the deck is lower in front, you tend to get 3 stripes, all 3 are about the same width of the blade. Same if the deck is low in the rear. With it at or near zero, you get one stripe the entire width of the combined cutting width of the blades. With the deck low in front, the engine doesn't have to work as hard since the first few 16th's of an inch of the front of the blade is doing most of the cutting. With it at zero, the entire cutting edge does the work which is obviously desirable but also loads the engine a little more. Lower HP mowers can benefit from 1/4" low in front for this reason. AND when measuring, measure the rear of the right and left blade and then the front of the center blade; this is more accurate than just measuring one blade at the front and rear.
blade speed. Speed has a big effect on the quality of cut. And actually on mine, diesel engine, I find that running very close or at full RPM/full throttle uses LESS fuel than running at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. I assume the difference is in the engine loading. On a diesel, the more you load the engine the more fuel-and heat-it will make. At 1/2 throttle it can't make as much blade speed, so when it's loaded in tall grass, the governor takes over and puts more fuel into the engine. At full throttle you have enough blade speed so that it doesn't have to work as hard in "normal" cutting. If you're cutting 3' tall Byhalia, it's going to drink fuel reguardless. You get the idea.
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