what is the best way to pull stuff? every now and then I may have a fallen tree I need to pull to the burn pile, or some junk I need to pull out of the weeds. I'm cleaning up my dad's old place I inherited and its pretty grown up, I found an old chevy luv in the briars..ha...i need to at least pull it out 20 30 feet to the clearing so I can look at it. Usually its smaller things, but I was just wondering ..once I hook something up with a chain what is the best way to hook it behind the tractor? THANKS
Pullin stuff
- Thread starter texican
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Yotekiller
Active member
Equipment
Kubota L2502, LP 60" BB, LP pallet forks, 60" KK Tiller, 55" HSI root grapple
85Hokie
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
Ditto what Yote said -
now CAN YOU use the 3 point to lift? YES you can - but you need to know the limitations when doing that!
And old tree that will dig in the ground when pulled - hook a chain, use 3 point , raise JUST enough to get the digging part off the ground and then pull.
They do make a "sled" for this too.
now CAN YOU use the 3 point to lift? YES you can - but you need to know the limitations when doing that!
And old tree that will dig in the ground when pulled - hook a chain, use 3 point , raise JUST enough to get the digging part off the ground and then pull.
They do make a "sled" for this too.
If you pull something heavy like a vehicle that has been sitting for a while, make sure you use a good heavy chain. I recommend at least a 3/8" diameter link chain. I have some lighter chains, 5/16" I use for pulling limbs and such, but for anything heavy, I get the bigger ones out.
Most of my pulling comes from the under-belly drawbar. I very seldom pull from the 3-point hitch unless I'm using my log lift,
Most of my pulling comes from the under-belly drawbar. I very seldom pull from the 3-point hitch unless I'm using my log lift,
bbxlr8
Active member
Equipment
L2501 w/R14s, LA525, BH77, SGC0660, CL 5' BB, CL PHD, WG24 + Ford 1210 60" mmm,
AND drape something across the line/chain in case of a break to dampen the inertia - keep anybody away as well.
Use the draw bar that goes up under the rear of the tractor. It should be at least 1" thick and 3" wide and have a hole in the end to hook a clevis to. This keeps the center of gravity low.
The swinging draw bar (the one that connects to your lower arms for implements) is not the one to use for this purpose.
The swinging draw bar (the one that connects to your lower arms for implements) is not the one to use for this purpose.
Most likely the brakes are going to be stuck on, and the wheels won't turn. The tires are flat, so that is even more resistant. If you think that you are going to move it I sure hope that you have some plan B. Your tractor has about 32 horsepower and about 2500 pounds of weight. You are going to be pulling on a 2000-pound boat anchor that isn't going to want to move.
Clear all around it and see if you can lift it up to break its bond to the earth. If you are extremely lucky it might even turn out to be a diesel engine truck.
Clear all around it and see if you can lift it up to break its bond to the earth. If you are extremely lucky it might even turn out to be a diesel engine truck.
If stump pulling is on the list I use my f350. 72 to 1 crawl ratio in low lock and 430 hp at 8300 lbs works really well. My wife loves it....
Correct.
Any hard pulls need to have the attachment point BELOW the center-line of the rear axle. Many folks have made the mistake of wrapping a chain around the rear axle or pulling from a lifted 3 point. Only to have the tractor lift the front wheels or turn over backwards.
If you don't pull from below the center-line of the rear axle then the tractor will rotate around the axis of the axle (give sufficient traction).
A friend of mine learned this the hard way with a Ford 9N, chain around the axle and a tree stump. Wife found him still pinned under the tractor some hours after dark and he hadn't returned home.
Use the Draw-Bar…NOT the 3-point…(to avoid the tractor flipping over backwards and Killing you)… and drape an old carpet or heavy tarp on the chain…so that should the chain have a weak-link and break…it won’t recoil toward you and kill/injure you or bystanders.
If your tractor does Not have a draw-bar…. turn the tractor around …with the tractor facing the item….and do the pull in Reverse
If your tractor does Not have a draw-bar…. turn the tractor around …with the tractor facing the item….and do the pull in Reverse
My money is on the tractor. It might hardly break a sweat. 4WD (if that’s what the “F” means) and diff lock will help. That little old Luv is about to get rehomed.
If it really stuck and the Luv is scrap, loosen it up by using the FEL to pick up each end (or at least one end and give it a shove) then give it a go.
That little old Luv is about to get rehomed. HA. Thats exactly what's about to happen. 10-4 on the method to loosen it up...it has a sapling growing up out of the gap between the hood and the fender. THANKS
thanks for tip on throwing carpet on it..got a big piece I found in his barn,..was going to throw it on the burnpile but think Ill save it for things like this..had no idea. thanks for helping me out and probably keeping me out of the ER
Yikes. Hate to hear that. Mine is just a 2wd so getting it low is paramount I see. Thanks for imput.
i "THINK" the chain I bought to transport it out there is 3/8. about to verify..thanks. Im still learning about what methods, including chain size, to use for jobs. Now I know..
ok..so its ok to do with same saw logs to keep them from diggin in. Learned alot on this post,
1. Use draw bar
2. Use 3/8 inch or better chain for big objects
3. Drape Chain with something heavy like carpet or couple of old moving blankets, etc
I appreciate everyone. I wish I knew what yall know to be able to contribute. Im getting there.
thanks for the safety tip...its out in the middle of nowhere so if that happened no one would know. I wont let it happen. TY