No-spill fueling ideas needed

[number9]

Ive got a white plastic 55g drum that I use for fuel. When empty I haul it to the gas station and put about 25g in it and use the tractor to unload and carry it to the tack barn I keep it in.

In the drum I use a harbor freight hand (crank) pump with a 1" by 6' full hose. I just pull the tractor into the barn, put the hose in the tank and crank the pump. Problem is, I cat stand at the crank and reach the tank, let alone see down in it. The fuel tank being black doesn't make things any easier either. I've got to pump, check tank, pump little more and repeat. I've only filled the tractor 3 times since owning it, but I can already see this setup sucks.

I need ideas for making some type of indicator device I could attach to the end of the hose and stick down in the tank that would show when the tank is full. Like day some type of stick that would float on the fuel and raise up as the level gets higher. Then I could mark the "full" position on it. I know how/what I want to do, just can't think of what components to use to make it happen.

Any ideas some of you may have would be great.

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[G-Man]

While you are pumping fuel can you see the fuel gauge on the dash? Turn the ignition on and while pumping watch the gauge.

 

[Eric McCarthy]

Build a stand and put the drum up in the air and let it gravity feed down into the tractor with a nozzel coming out the bottom of the tank. Maybe put a valve at the bottom on the drum so you can shut it off and not leave fuel in the hose.


OOORRRRR with diesel you can safely pump diesel threw an electric transfer pump.

 

[GWD]

Here is what I use. I just stand next to the fill tube and wait until the noise coming out of the tank changes tone.

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-diesel-transfer-pump-66784.html

It can be had for less than $100 on sale or with a 20% off coupon.

Unfortunately, there is no automatic shut off like those in a gas station. Just keep an eye and ear out.

 

[seanbarr]

I remember some time ago about a guy who had the same issue. He simply built a weighed base with a vertical tube attached. He set it on the tank next to the filler hole with the float rod positioned over it. Through that rod was a stick with a float on the bottom. He then can see the level of the tank from a distance. It looked like something that was cobbled together quickly yet was very efficient. Just a cheap but effective idea for you.

 

[number9]

I remember some time ago about a guy who had the same issue. He simply built a weighed base with a vertical tube attached. He set it on the tank next to the filler hole with the float rod positioned over it. Through that rod was a stick with a float on the bottom. He then can see the level of the tank from a distance. It looked like something that was cobbled together quickly yet was very efficient. Just a cheap but effective idea for you.

Man, I'd like to see that thread discussion. Sounds like something along the lines I am thinking of.

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[DanDan]

What about a fuel flow meter on the outlet of the pump/tank?
Something like:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_21032_21032

While not the same as viewing the status of the tank being filled, it is at least a gauge of what has gone in.

 

[Apogee]

The cheap way would be to install a T fitting on the tank outlet and install another fitting near the top of the tank. Put a piece of clear tubing between the two and you're golden. You'll need to change the tubing every couple of years as it will turn brown from the diesel. If you want, place a small plastic ball inside the piece of tubing so it floats on top of the diesel and you will be able to see it better from a distance.

Best to drain and remove the tank when installing the new fitting. You also want to be sure you get any drill shavings out of the tank once you've finished working on it.

You don't HAVE to install the top fitting, but the tube will need to be vented to the atmosphere and fuel contamination can occur otherwise. Under no circumstances do you want to chance getting dust into the fuel system, hence why it's worth putting another fitting at the top of the tank.

If you're not comfortable installing a top fitting, take the tank to a radiator shop and have them do it for you. Might as well have them install another at the bottom while they're at it so they line up nice and straight then no T fitting would be needed.

Simple and cheap.

Good luck!

Steve

 

[Bulldog]

Do it right once and be done with it. Yeah it will cost a few buck but it will by far be the cleanest and safest way to fuel the tractor.

 

[arcularius]

First try at a reply.. A rod with a cork float clipped to the side of the tank opening, or on a heavy base that will set on bottom of tank, when float comes to top your full.

 

[Bonk]

Why not just pump the fuel into a 5 gal gas can and use that to fill the tractor.

 

[Apogee]

I was searching for something else and happened to find this post showing a fuel indicator. lsmurphy did pretty much as I described. He does beautiful work! 5th & 6th pics down...

One would need to poke a pin hole in the cap to make it work correctly (or figure out some other way to vent the tube).

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showpost.php?p=59229&postcount=12

 

[Russell King]

Why not just pump the fuel into a 5 gal gas can and use that to fill the tractor.

For me 5 gallons gets very heavy before it gets into the tank. I use a 2 (or 2.5?) gallon and just keep the tank full from that. Easy to handle and hold up.

 

[Stubbyie]

Fueling from cans or hand pumping gets old fast especially if you use the machine much. Especially if using cans small size spouse can't lift 5-gal can high enough and didn't enjoy seeing her balance on stepladder.

Tried all the above and finally landed with a steel tank (plastic drum as described good too) with a qood quality electric pump and auto-shutoff filler snout like at gas stations.

Pull up to fueling location, clip pump leads to battery of whatever's handy or tractor, fill tank, experience joy of automatic shut-off when tank fills.

Wish I had started using the pump years before I did. Look around for used pumps and fuel tanks, often in combination rigged ready to go.

 

[Bulldog]

I couldn't agree more Stubbyie. Even before I got electric pumps in all my tanks I used auto shutoff nozzles with my hand pumps. I hate getting diesel on my orange paint.

 

[Stubbyie]

Thought some more about using the drum described by the original poster.

If you go with an electric pump it will have a 2-in NPT / IP ('pipe') male fitting made to screw into a standard barrel bung. It will also have a 3/4-in dip tube within the 2-in fitting.

The plastic drums or bbls I have on the place all have buttress-type female threads on their 2-in bungs.

I think you can probably forceably screw a short NPT (tapered pipe thread) nipple with a coupling into the drum bung hole and then mount the electric pump onto the steel coupling. Slather some RTV on the steel nipple for sealing and have a pipe plug handy when you remove the pump (if you do) for transport to fill. Or fill through the 3/4-in bung (funnel?). Remember to vent the drum when pumping out.

One other thing: regardless of hand or electric pump please consider using a suitable fuel filter. I use two: one at the pump with a clear bowl to catch water and large debris and another (screw-on canister type) at the dispenser to catch debris from hose deterioration and sludge that develops between fuelings. No fuel problems since using this setup (we also add Sta-Bil and Stanadyne).

Hope this helps. Please advise how you proceed that we may all learn.

 

[Bulldog]

One other thing: regardless of hand or electric pump please consider using a suitable fuel filter. I use two: one at the pump with a clear bowl to catch water and large debris and another (screw-on canister type) at the dispenser to catch debris from hose deterioration and sludge that develops between fuelings.

How about a couple of pics of your setup. Sounds interesting.

 

[number9]

Solved my fueling concern. I couldn't get the floater idea to work out like I wanted, so I bit the bullet and bought a 12v transfer pump from Northern Tool. Caught it on sale for $119 and then found a $20 OFF coupon online. Cheaper than the HF unit and looks to be a much better unit from what I've seen.

I was tired of loading the plastic 55g drum in the bed of my truck to take it to the truck stop and refill it. Was a hassle, made a mess in the bed of my truck and seemed to get diesel all over me in the process.

I had this trailer just sitting around not being used for anything, so I welded up a cradle out of scrap metal I had laying around. The cradle drops down in between the cross members of the trailer and hangs down 12'' to keep the weight low. Didn't want to hang it down any farther than the axle is off the ground for clearance.

Now I can just hook the trailer up and pull it to the truck stop to fill the drum, and pull it back on my land if I am going to be doing a lot of work with the tractor so fuel is on site.

I got the filter setup from Tractor Supply. Also extended the battery leads out a few feet to reach the tractor easier.

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[Burtonbr]

Now that is an excellent setup. It will be nice and easy to refuel with that.
That is a nice trailer to have just lying around, it's put to good use now though..

 

[bandaidmd]

We have been having those square 275 gallon (the plastic surrounded with the wire cage)tanks pop for sale quite often for around $50, one of them would look great on that trailer.