New to welding. Which rods?

KenB2920

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Jun 17, 2011
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Ok,

I have the welder so I can't change that. At least for now. So I need to know what you recommend for some one who has never welded.


What I have(was given): a miller bluestar generator/welder "stick"

What I plan on doing: fix / repair any tractor related stuff. I only want to deal with steel. No aluminum. Maybe add things to my trailer, repairs to snowplow equipment, yadda yadda.

What can't this machine do? How thin or thick of metal will this machine weld?

What rods do you recommend? A) for a newbie B) for different thickness C) what brand rods?
What other equipment will I need? Any favorite hoods? I have played a bit to know an auto darkening. What brand do you recommend?

Any additional information is greatly appreciated.
 

BadDog

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As in most things, the answer is, it depends.

What alloy, how much stress/strength, how thick, what joint, in or out of position, multi-pass, dirty/rusty/clean, there is no one answer. There are "general purpose" rods that cover some range, but often they are at best a compromise.

Best bet is talk to your local welding supply, and get just what you need for a job with some extra to cover "what if". If you don't know what your doing, and have the right setup for rod storage, you'll wind up with excess rod that doesn't suit the next job, and that is "stale" (at best, junk at worst) so that everything is harder than it should be to produce a weld that is inferior (and more likely to fail).

Once you get a handle on what you do most, and a rod storage solution (lots of DIY options), then you can try to keep some extra on hand for convenience, but like my collection of bolts (tool, whatever), you never seem to have on hand exactly what you need...
 
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bandaidmd

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What amperage range does your machine provide?
I learned on a old Montgomery wards buzz box that my dad bought in the 60s that I still use today. Learned on 6011 and that's about as general purpose rod you can use for repairs so on my opinion it would be good to learn with. 3/32 and 1/8 will cover almost any steel from 1/16 and up.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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Every different rod # and diameter has a different purpose.

As a general all around rod to have on hand I would say 1/8" 6013

Go on line or to a welding supply shop and get a rod usage and settings chart.

Go to miller and get a specs and usage manual for the welder.

My best advice... Get a good auto darkening and comfortable helmet, Very good gloves, and never have a disposable lighter in your pocket or flammable clothes and/or substances on or around you while welding.
 

KenB2920

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L5240 brush hog,flail mower,wicked grapple,tiller,Danuser F-8 PHD,BB,RB 7' rake
Jun 17, 2011
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Almont, mi
Wow, fantastic and direct.

I plan on a couple types of rod in varying diameter. I didn't realize the "expire" so to say. How long do they last? My buddy made some PVC holders with end caps to keep dry. ( seemed like a grand idea).

I did realize the welder has a chart on it. Thumbs up!

The welder is a 6000w generator / 185 amps it looks like. Kind of faded.

Ok, i will never do this, but I have to ask. A liter in my pocket when welding? I am using my imagination and can assume fire in my pants. Seriously?!? Yowsers.

Any brands of helmets appear to be more comfortable then others?
 

Wild and Free

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If it is an AC/DC welder don't waste your time with AC get some 7018 rod in 1/8 or 3/16 and it will cover most of your needs in DC mode.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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Yes fully agree 7018 rod is a better / cleaner welding rod... But someone with no welding experience it's easier to learn on AC than DC.

Disposable lighter and one red hot splatter can lead to one seriously bad explosion and subsequent fire.
 

Eric McCarthy

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Like an idiot I was tinkering around with my welder in the garage. I learn better by doing then by reading how. So I acquired some scrap metal and 6011 rods and was sitting down welding.

First mistake was welding with jeans that had rips and holes in them. The sparks were burning up my legs. Second mistake was taking a jacket and draping it over my legs thinking it was a great idea at the time. WRONG, the jacket started to smoulder and almost set my crotch ablaze.

The right protective clothing makes a difference.
 

BadDog

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For storing rods, something of appropriate size that is insulated and sealed. Many use a small fridge, but most common fridge are too large for most hobby shops needs. You can also build a box, repurpose something. Then, with a sealed and insulated box, add a small low watt light bulb in a safe fixture to keep it warmish. That's the basic pattern, lots of info on the web. Might also look into one of the welding focused web forums (like this, but for welder/weldor topics).

And after reading the responses, which are sound, look back at my post. When learning, I think it's generally best to remove as many potential problems as possible so you can learn what a good weld looks like, and how to manage the puddle. So figure out whatever you have you want to practice with, starting with "in position", figuring either/or/both lap welds or 90* lap joints (again, depending on what you have, and what your first project is likely to look like). With this and the details of your welder and material (through paint, rust, whatever), and go by your local welding supply and tell them everything. They will recommend a few likely candidates for best results, and hopefully have (or make) a broken bundle to sell you small quantity from.

As for gear, lots of things are really nice to have, but if I'm just welding at the bench, a nice large lens Jackson classic helmet (nod down) cotton/jean long sleeve shirt, and heavy blue jeans that cover the tops of my boots is my typical setup. With lower amp SMAW, and particularly with GMAW, I often weld in a t-shirt. High amp will get you a sun burn, but I don't burn easy. The main thing is to arrange things so pops don't wind up getting hung up anywhere. Standing is best, the stuff just falls away. Setting or under a chassis is worst, where you can't get clear of the hot bits flying. I've even had to lay under a wet canvas drop cloth, you figure it out. In tight spaces where you don't have great light, and no room to properly "nod", that's where an auto dark is fantastic, just don't block the sensors.

One point that almost always helps new guys, watch the puddle, not the arc. And start out in a comfortable location where you can support the tool steadily without problem. Use another hand (or metal brace) to steady if needed, particularly starting out so that your own accidental movements don't confuse what's going on. And finally, go through the complete series of motions before you ever start welding. This shows you if your going to have to over extend (making you unsteady), and may give you a heads up if the lead is likely to get hung up or something like that. If things don't work just right, change one thing at a time and see what that does for you. Change too much at once and you don't know what did what.
 

Kingcreek

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I found an insulated "rod box" military surplus electrode humidity stabilizer at the scrapyard that will hold up to 50# of rods. I've been learning to weld myself using mostly 6013 and getting good results. I'm actually surprised at how much and how fast my welding has improved.
So far I've made up some steel pistol targets, a pedestal stand for a grinder, and some "yard art" like flowers from junk gears and sprockets and rod. My wife is tickled with the additions to her landscaping.
 

KenB2920

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L5240 brush hog,flail mower,wicked grapple,tiller,Danuser F-8 PHD,BB,RB 7' rake
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Almont, mi
Wow, again, I can't thank you guys enough. Some great points and starting points. I will have to see where there is a welding supply business in the area to guide me further.

You guys are great. Always coming through
 

Bulldog

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Might pick up some 7014 rods and try them. I like the way they weld and they were real easy for my son to learn with when he started welding. If you don't have one yet you might think about investing in a autodark hood. They make welding much easier and now days a entry level hood doesn't cost a huge amount.
 

KenB2920

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L5240 brush hog,flail mower,wicked grapple,tiller,Danuser F-8 PHD,BB,RB 7' rake
Jun 17, 2011
145
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0
Almont, mi
Might pick up some 7014 rods and try them. I like the way they weld and they were real easy for my son to learn with when he started welding. If you don't have one yet you might think about investing in a autodark hood. They make welding much easier and now days a entry level hood doesn't cost a huge amount.
No hood yet, I will definitely get an auto darkening hood. I took my old plow to a shop and he let me wear one to watch. AWESOME!!!!!

I think I may pick up a pound of each recommend to try them out.

Are any brands of rods better than others?
 

Bulldog

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The best rods I ever used were made by PALCO but they are very expensive. Something like $20 - $50 a pound depending on the rods application and that was 10 years ago. I think the last rods I bought were Hobart, welding supply had them on sale. I would say for the most part anything your local welding supply store carries will work fine for your needs.

Hoods, I have a Jackson and my son has a Miller. Both work fine, I prefer the Jackson although it's much heavier. MHO you don't need a $500 hood to work around you house but I wouldn't go with the cheapest either. It sux to burn your eyes and the hood is all that's stopping it from happening.
 

Russell King

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One thing that helped me at first was to just use the old hand held welding shield and not a flip down helmet (it took me a while to get the head jerk correct when learning!). That way you could concentrate on seeing the weld almost start and then put the shield in front of your face without having to move your head/eyes. I assume that the auto darkening helmets are even easier than that.

There is a helmet by Accustrike that is operated by jaw action. Thought it was an interesting device.
http://accustrike.com/
 

Eric McCarthy

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The auto helmets get dark within milliseconds of striking the arch. Seems to me a chin operated helmet would add a little extra weight to your head and wear your jaw out with the ups and downs to operate it.