Need more amps

pbraig

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L245DTL1200 FEL, 54" Meteor Snowblower, Frontier BB2048L Box Blade
Feb 21, 2014
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Groton,VT USA
Just added a large led light bar to my L245dt and when you turn on the bar the volts drop to 12.3 other times the volts are 14.2. The bar is coupled to the original dismall poor lighting.

Anyone got ideas?
original allt is part #15411-64010 25 amps?
Wondering about a 40 amp upgrade?
Would like more as I plan on putting another bar for reverse.

Anyone done this before/ Would like to hear what you did.
 

ShaunRH

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So, what kind of power is your light bar pulling? LED's shouldn't be drawing that much juice unless you have the light bar from heck.
 

RCW

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Yeah - what 100 said - make a separate circuit.........;)
 

85Hokie

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Just added a large led light bar to my L245dt and when you turn on the bar the volts drop to 12.3 other times the volts are 14.2. The bar is coupled to the original dismall poor lighting.

Anyone got ideas?
original allt is part #15411-64010 25 amps?
Wondering about a 40 amp upgrade?
Would like more as I plan on putting another bar for reverse.

Anyone done this before/ Would like to hear what you did.

I looked up your alternator - and you are right - it is a 25 amp output design.

There aint know way in hell you are pulling that many amps to pull the voltage down that much with an LED light! :) A fuse would blow if that was the case too!

With an VOM - place leads on Battery - tractor off record voltage
repeat while running
repeat with headlights on
repeat with new lights on and headlights off
repeat with all lights on.......

somewhere there is a problem - could be in your VR or the wiring to the new lights.

Due the math and report back - check wiring too.
I am not sure the alternator is the problem:)
 

100 td

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There aint know way in hell you are pulling that many amps to pull the voltage down that much with an LED light!
Well as everyone seems to go overboard with LED's I expected he may have as well, and a couple of these will load his stock alternator up reasonably well so an upgrade to a 40 amp unit may be worthwhile. Even though he may have problems with his existing equipment, spending money on new will sort him out better than spending money on his old alt if it has a problem.
He also doesn't say where the voltage was measured, it may have been at the light, hence my note to upgrade wiring. This may fix his problems straight off, but how much more fruit is he going to hang on the tree?
www.ebay.com/itm/301272850921
 

Stubbyie

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Alternator is not powering any lights directly. Effectively, all the alternator does is top off the battery.

Reported voltage drop to 12.3-vdc isn't clear if engine is running or not do we know where the voltage is measured.

Start by checking the battery (swap for known good and / or have load tested by parts house) and check all ground connections especially chassis ground connection from battery.

LEDs are by definition "electronics": a suggestion proven over time is to insert a fuse in BOTH leads hooked directly to battery (through separate not dashboard OEM switch) as close to the battery as possible. Although unlikely it is definitely possible for the lightbar to take an electrical hit 'backwards' through the negative connection. At which point the LEDs will go phhffftzz and all the magic smoke will be released.

Please post back your continuing experiences so we may all learn.
 

85Hokie

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Alternator is not powering any lights directly. Effectively, all the alternator does is top off the battery.
Stubbyie,

not to disagree with your statement about the function of the alternator, it does top off the battery - but the current that is uses to "charge" the battery is the same flow of electrons that light the "lights" - the amps to charge the battery are flowing straight to the light, thus not charging the battery .....in old world - got to go back a while, the battery could be pulled out of the circuit and the car/tractor still function, now days the ol computer would have a hissy fit if that happens in today's electron world.

The pressure drop is something that does need more explaining as you pointed out - when and how is it being measured are both spot on as to the numbers. The 14.2 volts sounds a little high, acting as if a bad ground is placing a strain on the system. Switching out the battery is an excellent point too, many a battery seems "good" yet when the balls hit the wall - the battery cannot do what is designed. As I mentioned before - the info needs to be complete as you mentioned also - all the numbers tell a story if/when told with the support information along with it!:)

On another note - the poster said that it was "The bar is coupled to the original dismall poor lighting." SO does this mean that it is tapped into the small wires leaded to the original lights? IF so, then that is a potential problem too....that wire was placed for that purpose - adding 14+ amps on it cannot be a good idea.


the LED bar light that 100 td posted, is a amp sucker! Those 180 watts is a butt load of amps - 14+ will place a good deal of strain on any system!:D
At 15,000 lumens - that will light a entire ZIP code!:D:eek:
 

ShaunRH

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180W on a 12V system is ~15amps draw... yeah, that kind of a light bar will definitely impact the alternator/electrical system.

If the lightbar is like that one, then yes, you'll need to upgrade to the 40amp alternator to handle the increased load. In order to keep things balanced, when you add load you need to add supply.

So, if you add 15amps load, you need to increase the alternator output by 15amps to stay balanced. In this case, 25amps to start, +15amps supply is 40amps total in order not to impact the factory load balancing.
 

pbraig

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L245DTL1200 FEL, 54" Meteor Snowblower, Frontier BB2048L Box Blade
Feb 21, 2014
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Groton,VT USA
Some more info as requested by many other posts,

Voltage is measured at the battery, both battery post and out on the term, engine running at 1000 rpm

Light bar 72 w tagged into orginal wire for high beam.
rear work lights 2x55 w halogen
stock front headlights, no other lights on tractor.

Battery is new this year and tests good
VR replaced last winter. Was overcharging then and finally traced to rotten wire at ign switch. checked that again and all seems fine.

I have checked grounds and they seem ok though I suspect the problem may be in the ground path or possably ign switch
 

pbraig

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L245DTL1200 FEL, 54" Meteor Snowblower, Frontier BB2048L Box Blade
Feb 21, 2014
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Groton,VT USA
another note the voltage drop is only when ALL lights are on
 

ShaunRH

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Well you can put 18W-27W LED worklights on in place of the 55W halogens and that will cut down on the drain.
 

pbraig

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L245DTL1200 FEL, 54" Meteor Snowblower, Frontier BB2048L Box Blade
Feb 21, 2014
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Groton,VT USA
well that's the plan

its still not that much wattage from the leds to add up.

I still think there is something wrong
 

pbraig

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L245DTL1200 FEL, 54" Meteor Snowblower, Frontier BB2048L Box Blade
Feb 21, 2014
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Groton,VT USA
Most of my work with this tractor is done at night and in tight areas, by that I mean in the woods no external house lighting and poor snow conditions.

I want all the light I can get since it is as least 16 miles to the nearest person that might find me in a F***ckd up situation at well below 0 temps

This is my primary snow removal device for my home in the woods. the pickup gets me out but dosent clean much up!
 

ShaunRH

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Well, then run a low amp relay from the wire you are currently using to drive the LED light bar and use a dedicated run to the battery to run the bar via the relay. Between that and the LED worklight change out, your problem will likely brighten up.
 

lugbolt

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ZG127S-54
Oct 15, 2015
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Assuming the wiring is in good condition, yes, you will need a higher output alternator. Everyone thinks that LED's are super efficient and don't draw anything, and for the light output, they are efficient. However, they still use juice, the bigger the bar, the more juice they use. The 20" double row on my truck uses about 14A. I'd never have thought that it'd draw that much but it does. Verified via DVOM.

Now then, the wiring. Simply bolting a 40a alternator to the engine will help, but it won't solve the fact that the original wiring is pretty poor. Even brand new they were barely adequate. At the minimum, you're going to want to replace the factory charge wire to a 10ga or even 8ga wire. If I were doing it, I'd replace the external regulator, and install a newer style alternator that is internally regulated. Much more efficient-and generally speaking they last a long time. Very reliable. Put it on a 60A fuse. Just did this same deal on my G1900, to replace the original junk wiring and regulator. Could not be happier with the outcome.

You were testing at 1000 RPM? That's not even rated engine speed. What's it doing at rated engine speed (full throttle governed RPM)?

As stated, if you're trying to run the light bar off of the original wiring, that's no bueno'. The original wiring is pretty sorry, even if it were a brand new OEM harness, it's still poor, IMO. At the very least, the suggested relay should be considered mandatory, with it's own dedicated wiring directly off of the battery or starter (through a fuse or breaker of course).
 

Grouse Feathers

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You probably need to choose your upgrade path. You can upgrade the electrical system, wiring alternator, and voltage regulator. Or you can upgrade your lighting; replace the original lighting and halogen lighting with led lighting.
If you go with led lights, all of these led light bars may look cool and light up the woods like a freeway interchange but I have yet to try blowing snow at 70 mph on my Kubota. Two round 27 watt led flood lights light up my driveway 30 yards in front of my tractor like daylight and use 4.5 amps. Add rear lights and some safety lights and you should be able to stay under 15 amps total for lighting. If you are concerned about help finding you the led flood lights may not light up the woods a half mile in front of your tractor, but they are really bright and can probably be seen from 5 miles away.
 

ShaunBlake

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All very good advice!

One thing I would suggest, whether you 'upgrade' your dynamo/alternator or replace the high-wattage lights... in fact, before you even think about choosing that: trouble-shoot your wiring. It actually sounds like you have one branch that is leaking to ground.

I recommend that you isolate each device and remove from the circuit and note the voltage gain. If none of them are pinpointed, then proceed with upgrades. However, upgrading your system will not address the problem, but may actually feed it.

Please keep us posted on your progress!