Need hydraulic help, please. Snow blade won't turn right

[DougA]

I bought a used L2061B snowblade for my old BX2200. It has obviously been remade at least once to fit various tractors and it included a power hydraulic pack which is need for my BX, since there is no auxiliary hydraulics on it and this would be so much easier for me. All the cylinders worked on the unit when I bought it but there was an obvious problem with speed of the power unit. It turned out the solenoid was corroded, sending a poor current to the motor, so that was replaced. Now, everything works great EXCEPT, I cannot get the blade to turn right. It is supposed to have: power up, gravity down plus power left and right with a total of 3 cylinders.

I've spent hours on this and need help. I disconnected the hoses to the left & right cylinders and they are not seized. They turn either way without power.

I have tried switching wires, even though nothing was changed, just leads cleaned and replaced where necessary due to corrosion. All wiring has been checked for continuity and all is good. It can't be the solenoid otherwise nothing would work. I've attached wiring diagrams and photos and would appreciated your help. The empty plug on the left/right switch seems obvious but it was never altered and no wires were removed.

Yellow allows blade to go down
Blue
Green
Orange 12v to solenoid switch
White 12v power to hydraulic motor

I've been using the plow with the blade turned left but would really like to get it working correctly.
Thanks, Doug

 

[sheepfarmer]

In the off chance that it works like the hydraulic chute on a snowblower, did you try the right float position on your control stick? Push your hydraulic valve lever all the way to the right, and nothing happens, then push a bit further into the float position and it will suddenly swing rapidly to the right.

 

[DougA]

It's an electric switch controller, not hydraulic. So it goes left, off, right.

 

[sheepfarmer]

Oops, remind me to read more carefully

 

[1970cs]

Have someone run the functions and test for magnetism on each of the coils. If one is not magnetizing try swapping solenoids to see if another function goes south.

Pat

 

[Greenhead]

If coils are working and electrical is OK, under each of the electric coils there is a valve. Take the nut off the top of the coil and it just lifts off. The bad one will be hard to get off. The turn valve is probably damaged. If you hit something hard and the pressure relief doesn't act fast enough the valve takes the hit. It will be bulged and needs replacement. After the coil is removed the valve can unscrewed from the body for replacement. Change the oil with a synthetic transmission/hydraulic fluid of your choice.

 

[DougA]

Thanks for the replies. I bench tested all of the coils and valves and one seemed to be a bit wonky so I bought both parts new and it made no difference.
So, I switched hoses today and the blade easily swings in the opposite direction with no problem.
I removed both lines and when activated, fluid comes spewing out of the the one outlet and nothing of of the other outlet. So, is the control block ,(not sure of the correct term) blocked - unlikely or is there still a wiring problem? I have triple checked existing wiring for shorts and continuity and get no errors. I switched wires and the result is that everything works the same, just using different switches. All the valves appear to be clean and free of any obstructions but replacing all of them is a bit pricey if they are not the fault.

I could add a fluid switch at the blade but I'd really like to get the whole thing working the way it's supposed to.

Any other thoughts?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I'd really like to get the whole thing working the way it's supposed to.

Any other thoughts?

Is there quick disconnects on any of the lines?
Is there any restrictors in the lines? Some lines will have a restrictor to slow down the movement.
have you swapped the lines to see if you can swap the right and left movement?
If you swap the lines and the issue remains with the right, you either have a line issue or a ram issue.

 

[1970cs]

See if you can remove the valve spool for that function and swap with another. Or check it for debris or rust.

Pat

 

[Greenhead]

By the looks of the pictures, I can just see the corner of the pump/motor and it appears to be a Western electric/hydraulic snow plow pump. If that's the case I would suspect the valve that's by itself (the lone one). If the coil is strong, clean the valve and see if the valve moves a bit when it's out.

 

[DougA]

Thanks for the replies. I did swap the lines and the problem is reversed so it's definitely on the wiring or the valves. BUT I bench tested all the solenoids and all the valves and all are OK. They all move with current and appear very clean.
No time to spend on it today. We had almost a foot of snow last night and it's just too cold (for me anyways) to work on the wiring. I think I will just work with it turned far left until the weather improves. Last thing I want is to get a lot of snow and have it inoperable.

Keep the ideas coming.

 

[Soso]

Are the cylinders double acting?
The first pic shows plugs were another hose would connect
Or they are vents
See if the are pluged

 

[Soso]

You could try just using one cylinder
Looks like a new blade of the model only has one cylinder

 

[Grizzy3901]

If its an actual snowplow power unit there is a cross over relief valve that will keep you from blowing cylinders apart if you hit something with the extended side of the plow it could be bad or just stuck. Find a tree or ballard and put some pressure on the side it wont turn to while holding the button most of the time it frees it up. If not you need a new one.

 

[Grizzy3901]

From the picture i can barely see the pump but it looks like an old western pump. Its either left or right that does not require any valve movement to operate just the motor to run. Does it go left

 

[Grizzy3901]

It is a western pump and id look at reliefe valve bc to go left you have to use the right valve and coil along with another the one the one for raise. So if it goes left then that valve should be good.

 

[DougA]

It is a western pump and id look at reliefe valve bc to go left you have to use the right valve and coil along with another the one the one for raise. So if it goes left then that valve should be good.

I'm not totally understanding what this means. I think you are saying that to go right, you use both the left plus the left valves. That is possible.
On the other posts, either I'm not writing things out clearly or people are not reading everything. If I reverse hydraulic lines to the left and right cylinders and the opposite now works, it is not the lines or cylinders. Yes, it could easily be a Western plow that has been modified but the left and right cylinders are Kubota.
There is a guy with a Meyers plow that has the identical problem on another forum. We both think it's a controller issue.
To be clear, no cylinder is stuck.

 

[Grizzy3901]

Have someone holt the controller to the right and see if you are getting 2 valves to magnetize. Use a wrench and hold it inside the nut that holds the coil on and if there is resistance to pull the wrench off then both valves are working and it wouldnt be a controller issue. Have you tried pushing the right side of the plow into a tree while holding the controller right yet? This will see if the crossover relief valve is stuck. A cylinder is a cylinder so i wont matter if they are kubota or western. As for the meyers on another site the valve to test there is the green wire pull the coil and use 1 1/4 socket to remove the valve with a small screw driver put it in the center of the valve and see if the plunger will move in and out if not then the valve is bad if the coil is getting magnetized. If there is a way to send me a private message i can give you ky number and help you out. I have been working on plows for the last 15 years and known them inside and out.