M5950DT overhaul

[Luckystars]

I just bought this M5950 knowing #1 had bad compression. Apparently they had been eithering it to get it started. I added a second ground cable to make it crank faster and it starts fine without either but only 2 cylinders run.
I pulled the head and took out the pistons hoping to replace the rings and hone it.
Here's what I found. All 3 pistons have cracked lands between the rings. Only #1 had broken rings and was the worst for scuffing the cyl. wall.

Here's the pistons and what the cylinders honed to. I could go more but I think it should run OK like this. I've done lots of gas motors like this and they were fine. But they were 125# not 425#











Questions, Will it run and not smoke with these liners or must they me replaced?
I have a service manual for the tractor but of course the engine section is missing. Can I get torque values for the rod and main caps and the head bolts? Also if some one has the manual and could email me the couple of page covering piston replacement and ring gap and stuff that would be awesome.

 

[Luckystars]

Last picture.


Thanks for any help

Oh yea, Cheapest place for parts?

 

[Luckystars]

Update
I have a manual. The #2 cylinder had something hitting the piston in the past. The bottom of the head has some dents.
The rods, mains are .010 under. The mains look great, the rods are showing copper and are being replaced.
3 new pistons, rings and wrist pins and new clips.
I was going to lap the valves but they looked a little worse than expected and I've never seen valves with tabs on them. They are indexed to keep the tab facing the intake port. I guess it's a defuser to make turbulence in the cylinder??? So new 3 angle valve job with 3 new intakes.
I have so many parts off the tractor at this point I'm painting everything.
The fuel tank neck had and hole rubbed through it. I brazed it. Maybe I won't get water in the tank again. There was some bad looking water in the tank so it was drained, filled with a gallon of diesel and a gallon of gravel. Then rocked and turned for 20 minutes. Rinsed until clean fuel came out. All the hoses will be flushed or replaced. The injectors are only a year old so they will go back in.
The injection pump was replaced thinking it was passing fuel into the crankcase. It was 2 teeth off when I took it apart. It's in time now.
I think the dead cylinder was just passing it's fuel to the crankcase.

 

[Luckystars]

I will try to post updates as work progresses but I can't work on it every day.

 

[D2Cat]

Lucky, that looks good. What are you going to use the tractor for when you get it finished? A 60HP front wheel assist tractor with a loader is a very handy size!

 

[Luckystars]

Lucky, that looks good. What are you going to use the tractor for when you get it finished? A 60HP front wheel assist tractor with a loader is a very handy size!

It will pull a 7’ Woods dragger brush hog for 10 acres but first it will be used in building a home for us. Land leveling 7’ box blade and bucket.
Lifting and unloading materials with the forks.
Root raking and brush clean up once i make a claw for the rake and add a third valve.
I’ll use the bucket like a scaffold too. Better on the feet.


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[North Idaho Wolfman]

Just a note on the Timing marks:
While it appears like it was out of time, on most kubota engines of this era, the marks only line up every 128 turns, if my memory is correct.
So when you get ready to put it all together double check all the timing marks at the same time.

 

[Luckystars]

Just a note on the Timing marks:
While it appears like it was out of time, on most kubota engines of this era, the marks only line up every 128 turns, if my memory is correct.
So when you get ready to put it all together double check all the timing marks at the same time.

Thanks, to get a clear picture of the timing marks on this tractor was impossible. I put it back together like I took it apart when I did the injection pump. It was hard to start. I pulled the cover to check and it was still 2 teeth off. I rolled it over (very easy to do with 3 broke pistons) and every revolution they stay the same. The D3200-A is not one of those type timing set ups. This may be the only place on the internet where this is mentioned.
I did have it running with 3 cracked pistons and 3 bad intake valves but not very well. Blow like crazy, fuel in oil, back firing at higher RPMs.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

The D3200-A is not one of those type timing set ups. This may be the only place on the internet where this is mentioned.

You are exactly right the D3200-A is a very rare monster!
Sounds like you have it under control, I just wasn't sure if that motor was the same as others.

Like D2Cat said, that is a really good and versatile model.

 

[Luckystars]

Being that I'm using a shop manual for a D3200-B and working on a D3200-A does anyone know the difference between the two?

The pistons and rods got installed today.
Slow progress.

 

[Luckystars]

Just a note on the Timing marks:
While it appears like it was out of time, on most kubota engines of this era, the marks only line up every 128 turns, if my memory is correct.
So when you get ready to put it all together double check all the timing marks at the same time.

Now that I know it's not 2 teeth off the timing gears how do I time the pump? Just set it in the middle of the adjustment and call it good? spin it towards the advanced side? With 5 hard lines off it it's not like I can power brake it and spin the distributor like we did in the '70s

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Now that I know it's not 2 teeth off the timing gears how do I time the pump? Just set it in the middle of the adjustment and call it good? spin it towards the advanced side? With 5 hard lines off it it's not like I can power brake it and spin the distributor like we did in the '70s

The WSM you have does not have the procedure for setting the timing?
Look at these three things to see if it has and marks, flywheel, injection pump and at the gear case where the pump lines up.

5 Hard lines? It's only a three cylinder.

 

[Luckystars]

The WSM does not have anything about installing the pump. It covers pump theory, bleeding, removing the gear, the gear train marks and alignment.

There are 3 lines off the back of the pump, one for each cylinder. These are metal lines. There are 2 more metal lines with banjo fittings, one for fuel in and one for fuel overflow.

The pump has slots where it mounts over 3 studs. Nothing is mentioned about how to tell where in the slot to lock it down.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I'll dig in some more, there is very little information on this timing set up. they only used it on a select few engines.

 

[Luckystars]

Timing D3200-A solved. It is in the book, timing the injection pump. It's right there, one whole sentence and a picture. It's under cylinder head removal.
When you see the picture I attached you'll get it. ALIGN THE INJECTION PUMP WITH THE MATING MARK OF THE GEAR CASE.
That's it.
They mark the gear case at the factory and that's it. I went slightly advanced to allow for gear train wear, your mileage may vary.

Also according to my local parts guy at Kubota the difference between a D3200-A and D3200-B is the connecting rod style. The A does not have a straight across rod cap. It's cut at 2:00 to 8:00 position not the normal 3:00 and 9:00

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

They mark the gear case at the factory and that's it.

Glad you looked closer, I think someone said to look for marks....

 

[Luckystars]

Glad you looked closer, I think someone said to look for marks....

I was definitely over thinking it. Thanks.


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[lugbolt]

Thanks for the photo's.

now those of you who say using starting fluid, aka ether, doesn't hurt anything, now you've got the pics to prove otherwise.

Surprised the rods aren't bent.

 

[Luckystars]

Yesterday it started. Took a bit to get the injectors bled out but once it popped it ran well. It's got about an hour on it now. I pulled the valve cover and made sure it was oiling. It had no gauges so I hooked up a mechanical oil pressure gauge. It makes 75 psi cold at idle. Warm 60. 2000 rpm 90 psi.
Do these numbers seem high? I pulled the relief valve and spring. Nice and clean, no scoring. Tested the gauge against a know pressure and it's correct.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Could be right for that motor, Kubota's tend to run high on pressure.