L3560 LE Capabilities and Pricing

bearbait

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Equipment
L3560, 64" snowblower, 72" back blade
Dec 9, 2011
3,584
289
83
Cape Breton Canada
The L3560 grand is a great tractor, as for tires I have R1's but at times I wish I had of gone with R's. For me the tractor mainly gets used in winter so the R1's work well as R4's are useless without chains in snow. Good luck with it, keep your head high and your bucket low.
 

chim

Well-known member

Equipment
L4240HSTC with FEL, Ford 1210
Jan 19, 2013
1,127
193
63
Near Lancaster, PA, USA
I have read accounts of different tire treads being either great or terrible in snow. I wonder how many people speak from personal experience, and how many just parrot what they've seen somewhere on the internet. I can speak from personal experience and show a couple pictures. Since 2002 this is the third tractor with R4's and no problems with no chains. For the past 10 years or so I've been using grooved R4's. For the first two years after we built I did have a 2WD tractor with the old diamond tread turfs that absolutely needed chains. The driveway was gravel, and there wasn't much there to damage. After paving, I wanted to avoid chains.

The first R4-shod tractor had unmodified tires. On the second one I grooved the tires and there was an improvement in traction in snow. One of the first things I did when we got the L4240 was grooving the tires. If I outlive the R4's on the L4240, I'd like to get a set of Nokians just because I think they're nifty:)

Here's my post from another thread from last year on another board. The tractor has an 8' Fisher bottom trip plow:

The grooved R4 tires on my L3200 have performed well in the several years since they've been done, but an experience today with the L4240 / grooved R4's was nothing short of amazing. I had made one pass down the driveway and turned around at the road to plow the other half coming back. Pushing snow, the tractor didn't quite make it all the way to the top of the hill.

It was only after clearing the snow as best I could that I realized the whole driveway was solid ice. The below pictures show the hill. There's an old tree stump off the side of the driveway in two pictures. The tractor made it that far before running out of traction. Wanting to experiment a bit, I tried plowing uphill a few more times but the tires kept breaking loose near the top. I made several trips just driving up and down the hill and it could easily make it up the hill with the blade raised. The hill is so icy I had to walk in the soft snow on the side to get the picture showing the side view.
 

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bearbait

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L3560, 64" snowblower, 72" back blade
Dec 9, 2011
3,584
289
83
Cape Breton Canada
I have read accounts of different tire treads being either great or terrible in snow. I wonder how many people speak from personal experience, and how many just parrot what they've seen somewhere on the internet. I can speak from personal experience and show a couple pictures. Since 2002 this is the third tractor with R4's and no problems with no chains. For the past 10 years or so I've been using grooved R4's. For the first two years after we built I did have a 2WD tractor with the old diamond tread turfs that absolutely needed chains. The driveway was gravel, and there wasn't much there to damage. After paving, I wanted to avoid chains.

The first R4-shod tractor had unmodified tires. On the second one I grooved the tires and there was an improvement in traction in snow. One of the first things I did when we got the L4240 was grooving the tires. If I outlive the R4's on the L4240, I'd like to get a set of Nokians just because I think they're nifty:)

Here's my post from another thread from last year on another board. The tractor has an 8' Fisher bottom trip plow:

The grooved R4 tires on my L3200 have performed well in the several years since they've been done, but an experience today with the L4240 / grooved R4's was nothing short of amazing. I had made one pass down the driveway and turned around at the road to plow the other half coming back. Pushing snow, the tractor didn't quite make it all the way to the top of the hill.

It was only after clearing the snow as best I could that I realized the whole driveway was solid ice. The below pictures show the hill. There's an old tree stump off the side of the driveway in two pictures. The tractor made it that far before running out of traction. Wanting to experiment a bit, I tried plowing uphill a few more times but the tires kept breaking loose near the top. I made several trips just driving up and down the hill and it could easily make it up the hill with the blade raised. The hill is so icy I had to walk in the soft snow on the side to get the picture showing the side view.
That is impressive...the L3800 I used to own years back with R4's wouldn't come close to making it up that without chains however they weren't grooved mainly because I knew nothing about the process of doing that back then which once again makes this site a great place to learn from other folks defeats and triumphs, thanks.
 

conropl

Member

Equipment
L3560 HSDC
Oct 17, 2016
232
16
18
West Michigan
As far as the price, I thought it was fair, but who doesn't want cheaper? I may ask the dealer if he will throw in a workshop manual or some filters.



One other thing I have thought about is Top and Tilt kit, possibly with a third valve. I can't decide if I should spend the money up front.
I asked for a WSM... and they came through and included it. Hopefully they help you out.

I do find myself being to lazy to adjust the box blade when I should (just live with it). I can see the Top n Tilt coming in handy. When I need to adjust the box blade the most is in the winter. Sometime you just want to skim off the loose snow and leave a base, and other times you want to dig in more and scrap the snow clean off. I am sure if I had it for the drive in the summer I would use it to be more efficient and produce a better crown.

As for the cab in the woods... just be careful and you should be fine. Keep your head on a swivel.

Sent from my SM-J737V using Tapatalk
 

chim

Well-known member

Equipment
L4240HSTC with FEL, Ford 1210
Jan 19, 2013
1,127
193
63
Near Lancaster, PA, USA
That is impressive...the L3800 I used to own years back with R4's wouldn't come close to making it up that without chains however they weren't grooved mainly because I knew nothing about the process of doing that back then which once again makes this site a great place to learn from other folks defeats and triumphs, thanks.
Had it not been for the experiments and write-ups by others, the grooves are not something I'd have thought of. It took lots of reading about the process and successes before I was convinced I should borrow a grooving tool and try it.

Back when I had the B7500 (and half way through owning the L3200) I did all the snow removal with plain unmodified R4's and no chains. It worked well most of the time, but the hill could be tricky. Snow removal was via a rear blade or FEL. Then I grooved the L3200's tires and it did improve the traction. The whole time I was getting the 8' plow ready for the L4240 (below) I did wonder if the tractor would be OK with that size blade and R4's. Everything worked out just fine.
 

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ngiovas

Member

Equipment
L3560 LE
Oct 29, 2019
32
4
8
Clarkston, MI
Based on everyone's feedback, I am certain that I want to go with the L3560 LE. Now I just need to pick my options. I also posted a question in the implements and attachments section asking about hydraulics. What is everyone's thought on rear remote valves? I was thinking about getting Top n Tilt. Also, are there many uses for a third valve in the rear? Lastly, what is the primary use for a float valve? Is it worth having one of 3 be a floating valve?

Nick
 
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Oliver

Active member

Equipment
L2501
Feb 2, 2011
467
73
28
Preston County, WV
I have read accounts of different tire treads being either great or terrible in snow. I wonder how many people speak from personal experience......
In 2003 I ordered my new tractor with R4's and used it for mowing as well as clearing snow. When ground was soft, which was most of the time due to a lot of shade, the R4's chewed up the yard in places especially when turning. In Winter the tractor did ok without chains, sliding around somewhat side to side and occasionally running out of traction when pushing a lot of snow but no big deal I would just dump the bucket and start over. Fortunately my drive is almost level, on a hill things would have been different and chains would have been needed for sure.
Anyway I ordered a new set of R3 turf tires mounted on wheels, putting them on every Spring then after mowing season changing back to the R4's because well the big block R4 tread HAD to be better in snow. Well after 5 years of doing this back and forth one Winter I got caught, I hadn't got around to changing tires and it was snowing. Next morning we had about 8" and I decided I'd just go at it with the R3's and discovered much to my surprise that there was no side to side slip at all and I could push snow until it came over the bucket and continued to built up against the front of the tractor, and still it kept clawing along! The R3's were SO much better it wasn't even close. In researching snow tires I discovered, unlike mud and dirt tires, the tread is actually designed to hold snow because snow against snow has better traction than snow against rubber, and the R3's were excellent snow tires. Needless to say the R4's never went back on again.
 

SDT

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Equipment
multiple and various
Apr 15, 2018
2,070
315
83
SE, IN
In 2003 I ordered my new tractor with R4's and used it for mowing as well as clearing snow. When ground was soft, which was most of the time due to a lot of shade, the R4's chewed up the yard in places especially when turning. In Winter the tractor did ok without chains, sliding around somewhat side to side and occasionally running out of traction when pushing a lot of snow but no big deal I would just dump the bucket and start over. Fortunately my drive is almost level, on a hill things would have been different and chains would have been needed for sure.
Anyway I ordered a new set of R3 turf tires mounted on wheels, putting them on every Spring then after mowing season changing back to the R4's because well the big block R4 tread HAD to be better in snow. Well after 5 years of doing this back and forth one Winter I got caught, I hadn't got around to changing tires and it was snowing. Next morning we had about 8" and I decided I'd just go at it with the R3's and discovered much to my surprise that there was no side to side slip at all and I could push snow until it came over the bucket and continued to built up against the front of the tractor, and still it kept clawing along! The R3's were SO much better it wasn't even close. In researching snow tires I discovered, unlike mud and dirt tires, the tread is actually designed to hold snow because snow against snow has better traction than snow against rubber, and the R3's were excellent snow tires. Needless to say the R4's never went back on again.
Bingo.

Tractors are not designed for snow and no tractor tires do well without chains.

That said, modern turf type tires (not the old diamond tread type) are best in snow, followed by R-1s, with R-4s bringing up the rear.

I expect R-14Ts to be better than R-1s but there is no data yet as they are just hitting the market.

SDT
 

PaulL

Well-known member

Equipment
B2601
Jul 17, 2017
1,217
399
83
NZ
Based on everyone's feedback, I am certain that I want to go with the L3560 LE. Now I just need to pick my options. I also posted a question in the implements and attachments section asking about hydraulics. What is everyone's thought on rear remote valves? I was thinking about getting Top n Tilt. Also, are there many uses for a third valve in the rear? Lastly, what is the primary use for a float valve? Is it worth having one of 3 be a floating valve?

Nick
Float valve is for anything that you want to contour follow. On a box blade, you might want to float the top link so that it can float up and down. There are various other implements you'd want to float when they're in ground contact.

Valves in general. If you have the money, why not. Personally, I've never had them, but I have no cab and can reach over the back to adjust what I need to adjust. I don't adjust very often. Other people (who actuallyl have top and tilt) swear by it, and reckon they wouldn't bother adjusting if they didn't have it. Probably depends what work you're doing and how fussy you are. And, back to the start, they're probably better, and if the money fits within your budget, then definitely. But if you're choosing between a grapple and top and tilt, then I'd get a grapple every day of the week.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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Staff member
Lifetime Member

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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Jun 9, 2013
21,753
430
83
Sandpoint, ID

ngiovas

Member

Equipment
L3560 LE
Oct 29, 2019
32
4
8
Clarkston, MI
If you can afford it you would probably be glad you got two rear remotes...cannot remember if you are getting a loader but if you do, you would probably be glad if you get the front hydraulics as well for future grapple or thumb.
I got the cruise, and I am gonna have to add at least one rear work light. Otherwise, you already get tilt wheel, AC and heat, a comfortable seat, hst plus with all its features...oh yeah... you would never regret the air ride seat, but I did not get it and I just use a cushion.
I am currently planning to get at least 2 rear remotes. I am seriously considering going ahead and getting 3. I am planning to also get the 3rd function for the front so I can add a grapple.

If I remember correctly, the air ride is very pricey. I would rather go with the spring adjusted seat and use that money for other implements.

As of right now I plan to buy the following from the dealer to start with:

  • L3560 LE
  • 805 FEL
  • 2235A Quick Attach Front Bucket
  • 3rd Function Valve Kit
  • 3 rear remotes

I will likely add front and rear lights, cruise control, 12V outlet and a radio.

I will then buy the following implements shortly after:

  • EA Wicked Grapple
  • Pallet Forks
  • Box Scraper or Land Plane
  • Chipper
 

Bmyers

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
Grand L3560 with LA805 loader, EA 55" Wicked Grapple, SBX72 BB, LP 1272 mower
May 27, 2019
1,445
967
113
Southern Illinois
Sounds like a very nice setup.
 

Oliver

Active member

Equipment
L2501
Feb 2, 2011
467
73
28
Preston County, WV
Tractors are not designed for snow and no tractor tires do well without chains.

That said, modern turf type tires (not the old diamond tread type) are best in snow, followed by R-1s, with R-4s bringing up the rear.

SDT
I guess it depends on what our definition of "well" is, and certainly the condition. I'll just say my tractor with turfs did pretty darn well in snow, certainly went better than my Jeep Wrangler or Toyota Tundra both which had M/S tires. Turf tires on tractors are really a good looking winter tire, much more aggressive than the M/S on vehicles or the turf tires that are on little garden tractors.
I believe many who slide and spin in their driveways with R4 tires on snow and eventually just need to add chains, may well not need chains with R3's. However things really change if you are in snow which has a soft unfrozen surface, like grass or mud, underneath because once you spin down into the mud it's over for R3's or R4's, in that situation either would really benefit with chains. I imagine this is where R1 Ag tires would pay off.



I am currently planning to get at least 2 rear remotes. I am seriously considering going ahead and getting 3. I am planning to also get the 3rd function for the front so I can add a grapple.

I know you mentioned wanting float function earlier, I believe when buying two remotes the second has float function.
 

dwelling21

New member

Equipment
l3560, land pride rta1258 tiller, ea wicked root single lid grapple
Mar 4, 2016
40
0
0
Lisbon Falls,me,usa
I have a l3560 without the cab. I have the ea wicked root grapple for it and a 3rd function kit. The air seat is awesome. The 805 loader is the way to go for that tractor. I live in maine and have r1 ag tires because i got the tractor for working food plots in the woods. I love the ag tires for snow removal as i have used the tractor for 3 snow seasons now. I have zero issues in the snow with them and i use no chains. Also, i only use the bucket for snow removal. I push it down driveway and move it where it needs to be. I would recommend a bucket level indicator kit. The ea grapple is outstanding. Very rugged. Find out what size couplers u r getn so u can let ea know what size they need to send. Make sure to get caps for your couplers when grapple is not attatched. That price seems good to me by the way. I would recommend getn rear tires filled. Just wanted to share my experience as i saw u r looking to get some implements i have and its nice to get reviews from people who have used the stuff
 

SDT

Well-known member

Equipment
multiple and various
Apr 15, 2018
2,070
315
83
SE, IN
Not completely true, but it will cost you!

Check out Nokian Hakkapeliitta TRI tire features a specially developed rubber compound to work on low temperatures and icy surfaces

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uSarjbGfQn4
Interesting.

I had not seen these before but had wondered why someone had not produced a tractor tire designed for snow removal.

These would be great for tractors used primarily for snow removal but are not well suited to most other tractor work and probably wear quickly when not on snow.

The new R-14T tires (aside from compound) are similar in some respects but with fewer snow gripping edges. I expect that they will be as good or better than R-3s on snow.

SDT
 

dustin

New member
Oct 7, 2021
2
1
3
Paw Paw, MI
Did you end up getting the 3560LE? I’m torn between that and the 3901. Money isn’t an issue but I’ll be doing similar tasks with mine. I will need to run it on the lawn around the house too. Does anyone know if the 3560 with tire ballast will be too heavy to tear up the lawn or run over drainage field, etc.?
OP has the 3560 been good in the woods? I think the 3901 would maneuver a bit better but they aren’t that different in size. I really like the pedal set up and hst+ better on the 3560 but don’t know if I’d miss either.

I have been reading through the forums for about 6 months, but I am getting close to finally purchasing a tractor and was looking for some feedback from the forum members.

I am in the process of purchasing 40 acres in northern Michigan and I am planning to purchase an L3560 LE to help maintain it. The entire property is wooded. I plan to use the tractor for the following tasks:

  • Building and maintaining a driveway and a short section of the road
  • Plowing snow
  • clearing brush and trees throughout the property.
  • Clearing and grading the ground that I plan to build a barn and house on.
  • I'm sure I will come up with many other tasks to use it for as well.

I have read many posts from people with very large tractors on small properties and posts from people with small tractors on large properties. Will the L3560 be enough tractor in the long run? I don't plan to do any mowing with the tractor and I don't want to go too big since I will be taking it into tyhe woods from time to time. I just wanted to get other peoples opinion.

The second question is about the tires. In addition to plowing, I will be working in some very soft and muddy areas in the woods. I really don't want to get the tractor stuck. I was planning to purchace R1 Agr. tires for their better traction. I don't have a lawn to worry about. The dealer keeps telling me this is a mistake and the R4 tires will be better in the snow because they are wider.

Lastly, I feel like he is giving me a fair price, but I wanted to see what others thought. I am looking at the following options:

  • L3560 HSTC-LE
  • Industrial Tires (that's how he quoted it)
  • LA805 Front End Loader with grill guard, quick coupler and 72" quick attach bucket
  • 3rd function valve kit

The total price he quoted me for everything listed is $31,150 before tax (plus zero percent financing). Does this seem like a good deal? I thought it was reasonable, but I had read where some people said you should be able to get it for under $30K.

Thanks again to everyone on the forum for the great info. I am looking forward to getting a tractor.

Nick
 

Bmyers

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
Grand L3560 with LA805 loader, EA 55" Wicked Grapple, SBX72 BB, LP 1272 mower
May 27, 2019
1,445
967
113
Southern Illinois
I'm not the OP, but I can talk about the L3560. It weighs about 1,00lbs more base weight (with the cab) than the L3901.

I think the are both close to the same PTO HP, around 30HP.

As far as tearing up the yard, mine has not. I have R4s and they are gentler than my dad's R1s on his tractor. Either tractor with R1s will tear things up. I don't know about the R14s. We have ran over the septic system for the last three years and not have had any issues, yet your mileage may vary.

As far as the HST+, that is a wonderful feature. I use it all the time. When I purchased the tractor, had no idea that it was one there or that I would ever use it (really thought it was a sales gimmick). Yet, I have found that it is a very nice feature and it would be one of those features that would make it hard for me to go to the MX series verses the Grand.

Add pictures of me running the tractor in my friend's yard tearing down his shed and you can see if didn't tear up his yard. I was hauling the material to dumpster about 50 yards from the shed.
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dustin

New member
Oct 7, 2021
2
1
3
Paw Paw, MI
Thanks for the quick reply. I think that pretty much settles it for me. I was already leaning toward the 3560HST LE, I think that was the final word I needed. Now I just need to find one (and the loader) which are not easy to come by right now.
 
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ngiovas

Member

Equipment
L3560 LE
Oct 29, 2019
32
4
8
Clarkston, MI
Did you end up getting the 3560LE? I’m torn between that and the 3901. Money isn’t an issue but I’ll be doing similar tasks with mine. I will need to run it on the lawn around the house too. Does anyone know if the 3560 with tire ballast will be too heavy to tear up the lawn or run over drainage field, etc.?
OP has the 3560 been good in the woods? I think the 3901 would maneuver a bit better but they aren’t that different in size. I really like the pedal set up and hst+ better on the 3560 but don’t know if I’d miss either.
Sounds like you made your decision, but wanted to reply that I did buy the 3560 and love it. It has done everything I expected and more. It is fine in the woods, but I did add the mirrors. and they occasionally get folded in by a low branch.

The HST+ has also been great. I use my tractor with a grapple and box scraper frequently and it is super easy to operate. I got the 805 FEL and highly recommend you do the same.
 
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Bmyers

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
Grand L3560 with LA805 loader, EA 55" Wicked Grapple, SBX72 BB, LP 1272 mower
May 27, 2019
1,445
967
113
Southern Illinois
Anyone every put bars on the corners of the cab to prevent the worst of the damage?

I always figure that anything that hits and damages your cab would have otherwise hit and damaged your face. But I suspect when you're in a cab you're a bit less careful, since it won't be your face that gets damaged.
No bars for me.

Although I will disagree a little just based on my observations. My dad and nephew will drive right into stuff leaning and moving all around in the seat to try to avoid the limbs. I on the other hand won't attempt it, instead I get my pole saw and eliminate the problem.

My mirrors help act like 'bars' for when I misjudge, they start to be pushed around and I know I need to back out.