Kubota B6200 split clutch repair

[Groose]

I am looking for some step by step instructions to split my Kubota B6200.
I have searched online and withing the forum but cant find anything specific to the B6200.
The work shop manual I have isn't that clear for me as a novice and wondered if there was an article that had been published.
Many thanks

 

[rentthis]

If you find what you are looking for, take up gambling. It is possible that it exists but highly unlikely. If you study the WSM and look at the parts breakdowns on Kubota Illustrated parts online, it should be clearer to you. I use a couple of floor jacks at the split and then start from there. If you have a loader, use that to stabilize the front section.Cables, wire and hoses are the first to go. if it's in the way, remove it. A good thing to do is take pictures as you go. If you run into a problem, ask here. These fellows live to be of assistance.

 

[chim]

Block the front axle so the front half of the tractor doesn't get floppy on you.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Lets see if I can sum it up:

Pick a dry level hard surface with room to move parts of the tractor at least a couple of feet when you split it.

If it has a loader remove it first and the subframe.

Disconnect or remove anything that connects the engine to the clutch housing, wiring, hydraulic lines.

Block the front axle to the frame so that it can't tip side to side.

Pick either the front or rear to move and the other side to block up.

Remove the front wheel drive propeller shaft cover and shaft.

Use a floor jack that you can move when slightly lifted inline with the tractor split, then block up the other side.

Support it with the jack and blocks and remove the bolts from the clutch housing to the engine.

Split it.

 

[Cglaza]

Awesome advice NIW.

Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk

 

[Groose]

Thank you all for your reply's

 

[Groose]

An Update.
I now have the tractor split. It actually didn't take long once I stopped looking at it.There were a few tricky bits.
The tie rod was a bit stuck and was separated using a length of 2x4 timber as a lever and a smack with a hammer on joint did the trick.

I couple of bolts on the top section of bell housing forward of tank were hard to get to. I think I will have to remove tank when putting back unless there are any tips to get these bolts.

Anyway I removed clutch parts. The clutch disk was rusted on to fly wheel and needed to be pried off. Some pictures are attached. Completely worn out and needs replacing.

So I am cleaning up and have some questions before I order parts.

1. How to you remove the release bearing from holder ????

2. I cleaned the pressure plate. The disk has some light grooves from worn clutch disk. Otherwise is sound and smooth see picture. Can this part be re used?

3. Same question for fly wheel?

4. The clutch fork has some wear on one side. Can this part be reversed or should I replace?

 

[jenkinsr]

Have the Flywheel resurfaced at local auto machine shop, get new clutch disc, pressure plate can be used over but better off replacing it you only want to do this one time. Cant tell if shifting fork can be flipped over from picture. I have ground shifting forks or built them up with silver solder then ground them to put a new radius on it. Depends on how hard it is to find new one!

 

[200mph]

It's common practice to change disc, throwout bearing, pressure plate and pilot bushing (inside the crank) when doing the clutch. Additionally the flywheel should be ground per noted in the previous post.

Make certain you have a way to align the clutch during assembly.

Good luck

 

[Groose]

Thanks guys.

I have since removed the bearing, tapped off with a hammer!

I wondered about the flywheel and pilot. I cleaned it up pretty good. How smooth does it need to be?

I cant find pilot bushel in the WSM/parts manual.

Pictures attached. Pilot bushell looks a bit dirty should that be cleaned and greased?

 

[Groose]

I found this thread on re surfacing fly wheels.
Advice hear is not to do it. Tolerance to tight. "..if you remove more than a thousandth or two (of an inch), it's no longer usable."

https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34555&highlight=FLYWHEEL

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

The pilot bearing:
66621-14120
Seal for pilot bearing:
09400-14247

 

[jenkinsr]

there is an article posted 1/9/09 getting to know your kubotas clutch. it states no more than .060 should be removed.

 

[Pau7220]

I found this thread on re surfacing fly wheels.
Advice hear is not to do it. Tolerance to tight.

There is no reason to resurface that flywheel. You'll probably do more harm than good. Recommendation is to hit it with a DA or jitterbug sander to break the glaze and smooth minor imperfections. Looks good after the wire wheel... just scuff it up.

 

[Groose]

A quick update.

I ended up sanding the flywheel and replacing the pilot bearing. Had to chisel it out. It was tight getting new one in, tapped it in with socket head.

I've kept the all the clutch parts disk, plate and bearing clear from grease and cleaned with brake cleaner and I'm ready to put the tractor back together.

Before I do....

1, Should I adjust the clutch before putting it together. What is the correct way to adjust. Does the bearing have to move a certain distance?

2. Should I grease the pilot bearing or keep this area free from grease?

Any other pointers to check before assembly?

Thanks

 

[Groose]

An update to the clutch job.
Its back together and had an oil change and seems to be running fine now. The tricky part was lining up that drive shaft working on my own.
The clutch bites quite hard and screeches when picking up speed in 3rd gear. I suspect axle case needs oil? Which is the next job.
Oh and I am replacing coolant hoses which I have started an new thread for.