Help choose the right mower

Caboose

New member

Equipment
B2650HST
Aug 16, 2016
81
0
0
Washington State
Okay... so I've done a bunch of searching, and have read numerous threads/posts on MMM vs. 3-point mower, but I still can't quite find the answer to my *possibly unanswerable* question...

My Husqvarna lawn "tractor" (haha... scoff) has given up the proverbial ghost due to a woefully inadequate Tuff Torq transaxle. Apparently, this garden tractor that is supposed to play nice with ground-engaging implements met it's match with my 4-foot chain harrow. I will admit... it was probably asking a little much of this mower that had been worked pretty hard anyway. Good news is... the inability for this lawn tractor to handle the harrow is what finally led me to purchase my B2650 last fall.

For my actual front and back lawns, I use my walk-behind Honda which works just fine sine these are not huge lawns. I do have a larger side lawn that I mowed with the rider and have, by necessity, been mowing with the walk-behind. This is not a sustainable solution. It looks nice since I bag and the cut is clean, but it takes too long and the impending molehills are not good for that mower.

So... I am looking for a mowing machine that will do double-duty, both on my side lawn as well as my horse pasture once all the grass comes back after having worked and planted it.

I have pretty much ruled out the MMM. It would handle the side lawn beautifully, but I don't think it's the right tool to use on the horse pasture. That pasture has been worked pretty well and should be relatively level and smooth, but probably not up to lawn smoothness. I need to be able to mow pretty thick grass up to a foot tall in spots. Since this is Washington State, it is likely that the grass will be lush and sometimes rather wet (not rainstorm wet, but residual rain and dew wet).

I'm pretty much limiting my search to land-Pride at this point, but may expand my search if I get some good suggestions for equipment I can source locally. I am looking at either a FDR1660 Finish Mower or a RCR1260 or RCR1860 Brush Cutter. I don't expect there will be any brush at all in this pasture. This thickest thing this should run into is maybe a thistle stalk or a thick base of Winter Ryegrass.

I assume the Finish Mower will produce a nicer looking cut, but can it handle the thicker, longer grass. If not, I'm sure the brush Cutter will handle the thick grass, but does it leave a ratty-looking cut? I don't care if the pasture portion looks a little rougher, but I would like the side lawn to look reasonably presentable.

So, am I asking for the impossible? What route would you go?

Thanks in advance for the advice.

Dean
 

Caboose

New member

Equipment
B2650HST
Aug 16, 2016
81
0
0
Washington State
...FYI considered a Zero-Turn, and I'm sure that would handle the side yard nicely, but it's too much to spend exclusively to cut the side yard since I would still need something for the pasture.

Also considered replacing/upgrading the transaxle on the riding mower, but that would be about $1K and still only get the side yard covered.

I have a tractor now... I need an implement that will do the job :D


Dean
 

rjcorazza

Member

Equipment
L4060 HSTC Loader, ZD326, ZD1211
Mar 9, 2016
778
22
18
Hyattstown, MD
The rear mount finish mower will be no more capable than a mmm mower in 12" of grass. Both would leave clumped grass and not look like the White House lawn. A brush cutter will of course work in your pasture, but will likely leave a rough cut.
It really boils down to how nice you want the pasture to look, and how many mowers you want to buy. Personally, it sounds like a mmm mower for your tractor would be the way to go. I cut my 6a yard with a zero turn, at about 3a per hour, but occasionally hook up a 7' rear mount finish mower and mow it off with the tractor. The rear mount (rear discharge) mower leaves windrows when the grass gets even a little high.
 

skeets

Well-known member

Equipment
BX 2360 /B2601
Oct 2, 2009
14,163
2,826
113
SW Pa
Well in MHO the MMM will work just fine for everything your going to do. I do about 3.5 acers of field with the MMM, oh and trust me it aint no golf course!
And it also works well around the house and for the most part gets right where it needs to be along the gardens and flower patches.

Don't under estimate the MMM. I have used mine to remove chop up and grind away, wild roses, wild grapes bamboo and prett much any thing else that has gotten in its way and still mows the yard clean. Point it keep the blades sharp.

Oh yeah one of the grand kids was mowing along the drive way and picked up an alley apple, with the MMM it rolled it around under the deck and came out in little chunks,, not a good idea to do this on a regular basses, but just to show they aint a toy.
Of course this is just MHO and remember your mileage may vary
 

Caboose

New member

Equipment
B2650HST
Aug 16, 2016
81
0
0
Washington State
rj and skeets,
Thanks very much for the input/advice. I just immediately thought that a MMM would be out of the question for the pasture portion, but I guess that isn't necessarily the case - so, it's back in the mix.

I spoke to my dealer briefly yesterday and, after I told him I had pretty much ruled out the MMM, he recommended the rear finish/grooming mower. He said I most likely would not be happy with the cut quality of the "brush cutter" style... and that's what I kind of suspected.

So, maybe I've now reset my comparison for shopping purposes... MMM or rear-mount finish/grooming mower:
  • What is the height adjustability typically between a MMM and a rear finish mower?
  • Are all rear finish mowers rear discharge?
  • Ease of install/removal: drive-over MMM vs. 3-point mounted rear finish?
  • Durability/fragility of MMM vs. rear finish mower? i.e. is the rear finish built more stout than the MMM and does it handle slightly rougher ground better than the MMM?

Thanks again for the input. I have a while to make a decision as my horse pasture is just starting to grow and my side lawn can be mowed with the walk-behind for now. The exercise is good for me :D


Dean
 

D2Cat

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L305DT, B7100HST, TG1860, TG1860D, L4240
Mar 27, 2014
13,022
4,393
113
40 miles south of Kansas City
Dean, I didn't notice anywhere you mentioning the area of your horse grazing area. But as an example, I mow a 3 acre patch that our horses graze with a B7100 (that's 17 HP with a belly mower). It does a fine job and it's an easy cut for that machine.

I agree with the dealer suggesting a rear mount groomer though, because it's easy to put on and take off. You will probably at some point use it more as you become comfortable with it, replacing some push mowing.

At any rate, you don't need a groomer and a brush cutter, just one will do.
 

Caboose

New member

Equipment
B2650HST
Aug 16, 2016
81
0
0
Washington State
Thanks, D2.
The main horse pasture I plan on mowing is about 2 acres. I do have another paddock area that is about 1/2 acre that I might mow, but I usually let him eat that down and it's kind of a winter sacrifice area.
What's the highest you've let your graze area get before you've mowed with the belly mower?

As far as a groomer and a brush cutter, like you said, that's exactly what I was trying to avoid. I'm looking for as much of a "one-size-fits-all" mower as possible for my "farm" areas (pasture and side lawn).

I will do some more research and go take a closer look at my narrowed down choices.

I appreciate all of the personal experiences you guys are sharing. This is all pretty new to me so trying to absorb as much from others as possible.

Thanks,
Dean
 

D2Cat

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L305DT, B7100HST, TG1860, TG1860D, L4240
Mar 27, 2014
13,022
4,393
113
40 miles south of Kansas City
The B7100 is an amazing machine. I was going to sell it because I have too many tractors and just can't use them enough. My wife asked me to keep that tractor. She is the mower, so it's still in the barn! It's a dedicated mower machine. That's why I suggested a 3 pt mower, more versatility.

There will be places that get 10-12" at times, the mower does not act any differently then if it's 3". One negative about a belly mower is the limited space to raise the deck. If you get into a soft spot it isn't too hard to get the deck bottomed out, so you have to be careful in any place that might remain soft after you think all is dry!
 

rjcorazza

Member

Equipment
L4060 HSTC Loader, ZD326, ZD1211
Mar 9, 2016
778
22
18
Hyattstown, MD
...
So, maybe I've now reset my comparison for shopping purposes... MMM or rear-mount finish/grooming mower:
  • What is the height adjustability typically between a MMM and a rear finish mower?
  • Are all rear finish mowers rear discharge?
  • Ease of install/removal: drive-over MMM vs. 3-point mounted rear finish?
  • Durability/fragility of MMM vs. rear finish mower? i.e. is the rear finish built more stout than the MMM and does it handle slightly rougher ground better than the MMM?

Thanks again for the input. I have a while to make a decision as my horse pasture is just starting to grow and my side lawn can be mowed with the walk-behind for now. The exercise is good for me :D

Dean
Height adjustability is likely the same. I think my rear mount goes from 1-6".
Rear mounts can either be rear or side discharge. If I were to buy another one, it would be a side discharge to possibly reduce windrowing.
Hands down a rear mount is going to be easier to install / remove.
Durability will vary between brands, but neither is really more durable overall.
 

Bulldog

Well-known member

Equipment
M 9000 DTC, L 3000 DT
Mar 30, 2010
5,440
73
48
Rocky Face, Georgia
For the cost of a MMM you probably can buy a rear finish mower for the yard and a rotary cutter for the pasture. Then you'll have the correct implement for both jobs. As far as brand goes I've had very good luck with Bushhog implements.
 

MadMax31

Member

Equipment
BX23S, 60" MMM
Nov 5, 2014
766
8
18
New York
A 60" mmm ona B2650 is roughly $2500. You could get a 3pt 60" finish and a 60" rotary cutter for a little bit more. Arent their implement rebates now? Two implements may yield greater rebate? Be cheaper in the end?
 

Missouribound

Active member

Equipment
B2320, FEL, BOX BLADE, FINISH MOWER, QUICK HITCH
Jun 17, 2014
646
37
28
Missouri
Removing the rear finish requires you to take out 3 pins and disconnect the PTO.
2-3 minutes is my time for that chore. If you can do it on level ground you can do it faster.
 

Grizzy3901

New member

Equipment
L3901hst, la525, 72" landpride finish mower
Jan 1, 2017
67
1
0
Bealeton va
I just mower 4 acres of field tonight with my 1672 finish mower grass in most was about 16 inches not the thickest of grass and about 12 inches in the thick stuff left a nice smooth cut. Rear discharge left even amounts of grass no windrows. I am spinning it behind a 3901 so a little extra power but it does an awesome jobs 2 acres of it is old pasture and it eats right through everything. And the blades aren't the sharpest right now.
 

Caboose

New member

Equipment
B2650HST
Aug 16, 2016
81
0
0
Washington State
Thanks for the input, guys.
I haven't got the quote back for the 60" mid-mount mower so can't compare that on price, yet. The dealer has the FDR1660 3-point finish/grooming mower listed at $2260 ($1850 for a used one).

While cost is always a consideration, it's not the main thing here and not the main reason I am trying to find a single implement that will do a passable job of both tasks. I am simply running out of room in my shop :(. I have the tractor, the box blade, the tiller and the post hole digger all in there and it is limiting the working room I have. I plan on expanding out with at least a 3-sided shed for my implements, but I have not got that area figured out, much less built, yet. I really don't want to store my implements outside, although the box blade would probably be fine on a pallet with a tarp.

I think I am leaning strongly toward the FDR1660 3-point finish mower. I do like the idea of the 3-point connection and I think this would do both jobs adequately. However, that mower will have to find a covered home outside the shop for now.

Thanks again for all of the input. Keep it coming if you have some personal experience on these applications.

Dean
 

clay45

New member

Equipment
L2050DT, TSC 5ft Rake, Tartar 5ft rototiller, TSC Middlebuster, TSC CarryAll
Feb 6, 2015
279
1
0
SC
I mow our 6 acres with a SCAG TigerCat. My neighbor saw it and went to the dealer I'd used and came bach with a Cheeta. Sold his finish mower and maintains about 30 acres with it.
 

Flienlow

Member

Equipment
Kubota BX25D, Kubota U25 mini EX, SVL75,Landpride Grapple,Landpride grading scra
Mar 9, 2015
352
3
18
snohomish
I use a MMM on my BX25. ( I realize the OP has ruled out MMM) I use it for my lawn and to mow 3 horse pastures. I just started real high and would pick up rocks as I found them lower. This is still in work progress, but I am getting them tuned up pretty good now. I would say to buy a finish mower and do the same be it MMM or Rear.
 

Caboose

New member

Equipment
B2650HST
Aug 16, 2016
81
0
0
Washington State
Thanks, Flienlow.
I had originally ruled out a MMM, but then ruled it back in :rolleyes:.
MMM is not ruled out again, but I think I am leaning toward a 3-point rear finish mower as a good all-around.

dean
 

Ramos

New member

Equipment
1870-1, LA203A, RCK54
Feb 25, 2016
463
3
0
Sherman County, Oregon
If you want one unit for both jobs, you may want to also consider a small flail mower. More capacity than a MMM or rear finish mower in the pasture but capable of leaving a uniform finish in the yard. Just a thought...
 

bucktail

Well-known member

Equipment
L1500DT, 6' king kutter back blade, boom, dirt scoop ford disk JD212
Jun 13, 2016
1,234
181
63
MN
The box blade doesn't have any bearings, seals or gearboxes, so if you need room while you're getting your second shop built, that would probably stand up to the elements best.
 

Caboose

New member

Equipment
B2650HST
Aug 16, 2016
81
0
0
Washington State
Ramos,
I considered a flail mower but, in the limited searching I have done so far, those bad boys are pricey!!

bucktail,
That was my thinking on putting the box blade outside, but those finish mowers aren't small so the room I make by moving the box blade outside might not be enough... a couple of pieces of equipment might have to "leave the nest". Would definitely be up off the ground and covered.

Dean