Glue for mailbox?

sheepfarmer

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I have heard several of you talk about JB Weld and assorted other substances to patch up engines, and so I am wondering about something for my mailbox. Google provides an array of epoxies, but I don't know if anything will work for my purpose, preferably not too elaborate. The object is to patch up the mailbox door. I think the mail person doesn't close the door all the way and starts driving and the lid falls open and gets caught on the truck, either that or she slams the h8$7ll out of it. Anyway I don't want to replace whole mailbox, since taking the box off its current location is difficult.

The rivet that forms the hinge got broken off on one side, so I drilled it out and replaced with a nut and bolt, and pounded everything back into shape so it fit nicely and latched perfectly. That lasted about a month. Then the piece of metal that the bolt went through got torn. To fix it, if I could glue a washer to the lid over the torn part that would probably hold it and provide a spot for my nut and bolt. Welding not an option.

Is gluing a total waste of time?

 

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Yooper

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The number of glues and epoxies available today is overwhelming. I've tried a couple including Devcon liquid steel and JB Weld. Both of these will work for your situation and I'm sure others will chime in with their experiences. One thing that will be universal is the surfaces MUST be clean and a little roughed up for the glue/epoxy to grab on to. I think your idea of washers is right on. UV light is your enemy with some epoxies and glue. Go for it and good luck!
 

coachgeo

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longer scrap piece of tin or even thicker riveted to the outer edge of the flap door with a hole on the end drilled to replace the one that broke through might last another year if the rivets will let the flap door close.

Welding might be out but brazing may not be.

Otherwise..... if you want to stay cheap.... search craigslist for a mailbox Also your local FREE stuff listings
 
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85Hokie

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sheepfarmer

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Thanks guys, I'll try it! and keep you posted....(ha ha, not good at puns either :):) )
 

Ike

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What you need is a glue that is used on boats. I think it is 5400 but if you want I can get you the maker and number. You can get it at Home Depot or Menards.DON'T GET IT ON YOUR HANDS. It does not come off. Once on there is no removing it unless you tear the part glued to up
 

D2Cat

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The JB Weld will "drip" as it begins to set up. Might need to make a container for the Weld. I often use duct tape, stuck good on the bottom of the object being glues, and just contain it so it does the job you want it to do.

Might use a lid off a medicine bottle. Maybe a bench grinder to shorten the lid so it's the depth you need to cover the washer, then just duct tape the lid with JB Weld and the washer in it. Or get a piece of dowel, (or from a little limb) to fill the hole from the far side and hold the washer in place. Tape the inside so the weld doesn't run out there. When the weld is hard, just drill it out to the diameter you need for your bolt.

I'd also ask your carrier what you could do to make it easier for her to not have a problem. If she doesn't have a ready answer, she'll know you're aware of a problem and it keeps reoccurring! That may lead her to being more careful!!
 

bearskinner

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They make a 5 minute Epoxy, that is similar to JB Weld. Scuff it up with an aggressive piece of sand paper first.
Is it possible to attach a magnet to the upper inside of the mailbox so when the door gets closed, there is some extra help to hold the door in place?
 

sheepfarmer

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Good to hear there is quick setting version, would hate to spend too much time attached to the mailbox and also that I have to be aware of drips. Duct tape is part of my arsenal.

Re alternative hinges, I'm still looking for a style that would work.

The mailbox is in the middle of a row of 4, it complicates getting it off.

Thanks guys!
 

eipo

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Piano hinge. They sell them at the big box store of your choice and can be cut to length or purchased in the right length if there is one.
 

Redtoorange

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Put the hinge on the top and that way if the mail carrier can't close it gravity will.


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Tooljunkie

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I use the quick set jb all the time. Its my go to epoxy. Its runny, but as mentioned, duct tape will keep it from oozing out everywhere. Scuff both areas with some emery cloth (coarse) will give it some tooth to hang on with.

There are epoxy product that will hold automotive panels together, one manufacturer glues the hinges onto the body.
 

cerlawson

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It may not the just the mail person. Could be vandals. It's called mail box baseball. Solution is to install a fence post before the mail box somewhat out toward the road. A swinging bat hits that first. If it is a snow plow and the thrown snow, a heavy steel late mounts on that new fence post. Explain to the mail person that it is vandals and maybe they will get the hint if that is really his (her) fault.
 

skeets

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10-4 on the ball bats, and snow plow drivers, I swear they aim for mail boxes. Years ago after the 3rd mail box I found a piece of the steel guard rail they put at the ends,,, yeah 6 bolts thats all,, anyway that bolted to the 6x6 the mail box fit right in side the curve,, and that was the last mail box I ever put at that house I rode past the place a couple years ago and it was still there all pained up, with the same mail box,,at least I think it was :D
 

Daren Todd

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Old boss got sick and tired of people wiping out his mailbox with a baseball bat. Put up a slightly smaller mailbox with the office address which was in the garage. Work mail went to a po box. Filled that smaller box with concrete :D:D

We happened to be talking out in the parking lot when some kids hit the box. Heard a loud cry and found the bat in the road. Kids hit the concrete filled mail box with an aluminum bat :eek: Kid probably felt that shock wave in his toe nails :D:D
 

scdeerslayer

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What you need is a glue that is used on boats. I think it is 5400 but if you want I can get you the maker and number. You can get it at Home Depot or Menards.DON'T GET IT ON YOUR HANDS. It does not come off. Once on there is no removing it unless you tear the part glued to up
I think you're talking about 3M 5200. I've used tons of that stuff, and I've got the clothing to prove it. It's more of a sealant but it does work great to glue plastics and fiberglass, but I don't know how well it would work to glue two pieces of metal together. Usually I'm using it to seal screws or through-hull fittings.

It takes a couple of days to come off your hands but you can take things apart that are glued with it. It's a flexible adhesive (actually made for more of a sealant) and working the parts slowly apart while cutting and prying they will eventually come apart, and slowly working the adhesive left behind you can get it to peel off the parts. The flexibility allows you to get the things apart, but I think that's one reason why it works so great because under vibration it flexes where other adhesives would eventually crack and fail. It's waterproof so that's a plus, but it takes a 12 hours to set up and a week to fully cure.

I've never seen it in a home improvement store except for in caulk gun tubes. It's kind of expensive though, especially when most jobs (at least for me) are going to use about 1/20 of one of the small tubes. Usually before I use 1/2 the tube the rest it unusable, and that's usually after drilling the tip out a couple of times.

One thing I have learned though is that if you use it to glue things together without a mechanical fastener then sand both sides really well or it won't have anything to bite into and can fail.
 

nzzshl

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In my world, I would not use any glue....I'd buy 12" of piano hinge, cut a couple pieces then attach them to the bottom of the door and the dropped flange at the box opening with pop rivets.
 
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