I did something today that most people don't do. I have a 94 Toyota 4x4 5 speed, a little bump around truck. It turned 200,000 and I changed the front and rear end oil, transfer case and transmission. I can't believe what a difference it made in shifting. Put all synthetic oil in. I know I should have done it before now.
Gear Oil
- Thread starter DThrash
- Start date
You got it I did the same thing in my old Silverado at 240k I used for hauling firewood and stuff. Didnt help the gas mileage but it did shift a lot better in and out of 4wd got to be like silk after a few times,,, Funny how good that stuff is aint it, royal purple I think is what I used
Did mine this past Monday. That and power steering fluid flush and brake fluid flush. 2003 F250 4x4, 7.3. 210,000+.
Lots of folks don't flush/change anything but oil. The brake fluid is also important. After flushing, I noticed that the brake FEELS completely different, not "harder" or "softer" but more responsive to input. Similarly flushing the power steering. Mine's got hydroboost so it also runs the brake "booster". Now it's time to do a transmission flush. I had it done at 50k, 100k, 150k, and I'm overdue but I'm going to pay someone else to do it. It's cheaper. Also, another fluid that gets horribly overlooked is coolant. It wears out too.
I've always done this kinda stuff and everything lasts a long time without much repair. The F150 Lightning went 401,000 when I traded it for the F250.
Lots of folks don't flush/change anything but oil. The brake fluid is also important. After flushing, I noticed that the brake FEELS completely different, not "harder" or "softer" but more responsive to input. Similarly flushing the power steering. Mine's got hydroboost so it also runs the brake "booster". Now it's time to do a transmission flush. I had it done at 50k, 100k, 150k, and I'm overdue but I'm going to pay someone else to do it. It's cheaper. Also, another fluid that gets horribly overlooked is coolant. It wears out too.
I've always done this kinda stuff and everything lasts a long time without much repair. The F150 Lightning went 401,000 when I traded it for the F250.
When i flush brake fluid I just use a turkey baster and draw some out of the reservoir, then fill it up. I do this 3 or 4 times and call it good enough!
Interesting.
The correct way to flush a brake system (hydraulic) is go to the farthest from the master cylinder bleed point (usually the right had rear wheel and flush from there. If the back brakes operate on a 'Tee' fitting (like Fords do, it's good to open the bleeder on the left wheel (after fresh fluid is coming out the right bleeder to get fresh fluid to the left wheel cylinder too.
I'll run the master cylinder tank almost dry and refill it a couple times in the process, brake fluid is cheap. and you don't need to pump it (brakes), gravity will do the job just fine.
I change my brake hoses every 5 years as well.
You're right most people ignore transmission, transfer, and diff oil. On my previous Tundra V6, 5-speed I changed everything including brake fluid every 40K which was about 3-4 years. First time I used synthetic everywhere but in my case found it didn't shift as smoothly so dumped it out of the transmission and refilled it with mineral oil which made the shifting feel better. Left the synthetic in the diffs and T-case though.
Nice looking Camhead BTW.
85Hokie
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Funny what a good ol dose of new oil will do!
Synthetic was helpful - but just changing the oil(s) with new probably is 70% of the difference!
Fact or fantasy, I'm not sure but I follow the advice of my friend and hunting buddy who happens to be the service manager at the Freightliner dealership I retired from a few years ago...
He told me to always fill differentials and transmissions with the same lubricant they came with originally. He went on to tell me that the seals get conditioned to a certain type of lubricant (synthetic or mineral or vice-versa) and changing them can cause the seals to leak.
Makes sense to me and I adhere to that advice.
All my slush boxes have drain plugs in the pans and the ones that didn't have them now. I usually change filters every other fluid change and when I change filters, I also drain the torque convertors.
He told me to always fill differentials and transmissions with the same lubricant they came with originally. He went on to tell me that the seals get conditioned to a certain type of lubricant (synthetic or mineral or vice-versa) and changing them can cause the seals to leak.
Makes sense to me and I adhere to that advice.
All my slush boxes have drain plugs in the pans and the ones that didn't have them now. I usually change filters every other fluid change and when I change filters, I also drain the torque convertors.
For brake flush I built a power bleeder out of an old lawn & garden sprayer. Pump it up to 15 psi, turn the valve on, and go with it. This makes bleeding and flushing a one person operation.
As far as doing the old fashioned way using gravity, I have two cars that I've recently done brake work on, and bled them with gravity. Trust me when I say, it doesn't always work. One in particular I couldn't get the brakes to work properly no matter what I did. Built the power bleeder, cracked each bleeder loose and the LF and RR both had a couple bubbles come out.
Also worth mentioning....the bleeders themselves. Most calipers the bleeder is screwed in, and there is a possibility for air to leak AROUND the threads. When bleeding or even flushing, remove the bleeders and put some grease or better yet teflon tape on the threads but ONLY on the threads, not on anything else. Some calipers, the bleeder is near the top but not AT the top and on those sometimes with the threads leaking air around them, air can get IN through the threads, creating a bubble or two at the top of the caliper. Some of those you have to partially remove the caliper and "make" the bleeder go to the top by twisting or repositioning the caliper. I know one particular Ford that is like this, and at least one GM car.
As far as doing the old fashioned way using gravity, I have two cars that I've recently done brake work on, and bled them with gravity. Trust me when I say, it doesn't always work. One in particular I couldn't get the brakes to work properly no matter what I did. Built the power bleeder, cracked each bleeder loose and the LF and RR both had a couple bubbles come out.
Also worth mentioning....the bleeders themselves. Most calipers the bleeder is screwed in, and there is a possibility for air to leak AROUND the threads. When bleeding or even flushing, remove the bleeders and put some grease or better yet teflon tape on the threads but ONLY on the threads, not on anything else. Some calipers, the bleeder is near the top but not AT the top and on those sometimes with the threads leaking air around them, air can get IN through the threads, creating a bubble or two at the top of the caliper. Some of those you have to partially remove the caliper and "make" the bleeder go to the top by twisting or repositioning the caliper. I know one particular Ford that is like this, and at least one GM car.
I never could subscribe to the idea of running new oil through a dirty filter (nor could I feel good about contaminating the new fluid with the dirty fluid that was still captured in the old filter... but each to his own .)
SidecarFlip, I hope your recovery is proceeding well!
It is. Got a little infection in the lower incision but antibiotics seem to be taking care of that. I'm being careful not to spill my guts (as Skeets suggested I might do....
) Life is good and I'm cancer free and expect to live a while longer.My trans fluid filters get changed every other spring and the fluid yearly.
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In the life of my '99 4Runner, I have had TOYOTA do four power flushes on the tranny which includes a new tranny filter. With 140k on the clock, it shifts like the day I got it. I get calls from the local Toyota dealer all the time saying they have people looking for that model. I finally told them, "I instructed my wife to bury me in it." They stopped calling. It's so old it has actually begun climbing in value. (There is a place in Oregon which takes this body off and puts it on a current model frame and running gear with the new engine. Guess that is why they are in demand...)
I have swapped out the "permanent" fluid in my 2000 528i tranny twice since I got it with 36K on it. Last month I drove it 500 miles in three days, much of that well over the speed limit. Shifts great. 27mpg. The old "heap" has a book value of around $5k. It's near mint inside and out. How can you sell a car like this? It's just getting broken in.
It's time for my hydraulic service on the Kubota...
I have swapped out the "permanent" fluid in my 2000 528i tranny twice since I got it with 36K on it. Last month I drove it 500 miles in three days, much of that well over the speed limit. Shifts great. 27mpg. The old "heap" has a book value of around $5k. It's near mint inside and out. How can you sell a car like this? It's just getting broken in.
It's time for my hydraulic service on the Kubota...
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You can do that in Az, no salt or winter to speak of...
I'm doing the same thing here in Michigan with my 97 F350 crew cab 4x4 Ford pickup but my twist is, it never gets driven n the winter so no salt.
99 thousand miles, no rust anywhere and it is also increasing n value, in fact so much, I had to insure it with a specialty vehicle insurance company because my regular carrier would only give me book value which is 7 grand. Been offered 25 for it cash on the spot.
Ordered it brand new. One owner. 7.3 Turbo, no emissions crap at all. Engine is built, trans is built too. Sits on 35 x 12.5's with a 6" lift. Just the thing for an old man to tool around in. Wish I never lifted it, hard to get in ad out of but looks good.
No pictures available however.
I'm doing the same thing here in Michigan with my 97 F350 crew cab 4x4 Ford pickup but my twist is, it never gets driven n the winter so no salt.
99 thousand miles, no rust anywhere and it is also increasing n value, in fact so much, I had to insure it with a specialty vehicle insurance company because my regular carrier would only give me book value which is 7 grand. Been offered 25 for it cash on the spot.
Ordered it brand new. One owner. 7.3 Turbo, no emissions crap at all. Engine is built, trans is built too. Sits on 35 x 12.5's with a 6" lift. Just the thing for an old man to tool around in. Wish I never lifted it, hard to get in ad out of but looks good.
No pictures available however.
Just to be the odd duck -I have a 2003 f-150 4wd that I bought new.At present it has 271,000 miles on it.I drive it every day,it has never had the plug out of the differentials or transfer case ,never had power steering or transmission fluid changed or added to or the coolant added to or replaced or freon added to ac.I have only changed the oil occasionally at 7500-10000 miles. I definitely do not recommend this at all ,to anyone but I can say I would drive it cross country without a thought. I think it proves the quality of vehicles and quality of lubricants now.on the same token I'm just the opposite with my equipment 50 hr oil change at 35 hrs etc.
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I'm surprised you never had an issue with the AC. Ford had a known issue with the AC compressors on there trucks. My 04, that I used to own went thru 3 ac compressors. First one went out in 2 months
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RCW
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Gosh - much earlier, but remember Ford pickups going through power steering pumps regularly....maybe late-70's (?) - did a couple on my father's 1978 F250 - easy to get to though!
Chevy trucks are noted for fuel vent solenoids - put them in a bad spot for to foul up, especially with snow/salt/dirt. My 2013 had a check engine light at 1 year....
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Had to replace the charcoal canister and vent solenoid on my Sierra last month. Total cost for both was around $250, and took around 10 minutes of my time from start to finish.
Trucks been paid off for the past year though, so I can't really complain if that's all I've had to do to it besides routine maintenance and brakes.
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RCW
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Wow Ray - those would be few and far between in Upstate New York - nice vehicles!
My daughter near Monterey Bay, CA drives an older Honda Element with 180K. Thing looks/sounds as new!
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I've had to do them on 3 Chevy's so far. They were all under warranty, so it was dealer's issue. I think they re-locate it some to avoid fouling.
No issue with the 2017 thus far, so maybe they figured it out??