Front offside axle leaking

[John Corey]

Hi guys
Yesterday I parked my Kubota Sunshine L1-22DT tractor in the shed after a day's work and noticed a lot of gear oil leaking from the front offside axle, where it meets the wheel hub (see pic). So much so that it was pooling on the floor. I placed a rag and bucket under it.

My tractor has the dip stick on the nearside of the axle for checking the oil level. What I do not understand is that when I checked it today there was no more leaking. So I figured all of the oil had drained from the axle. So why when I check the dipstick on the axle does it read ok, with the level between the lines? I see there are draining nuts at the bottom on both sides but I thought the fill point for the entire front axle was through the dipstick?

So what am I missing here? I figure that maybe the oil is still in the lower area below the leaking seal, but why then does the dipstick still read ok?

 

[modeladay]

Hi guys
Yesterday I parked my Kubota Sunshine L1-22DT tractor in the shed after a day's work and noticed a lot of gear oil leaking from the front offside axle, where it meets the wheel hub (see pic). So much so that it was pooling on the floor. I placed a rag and bucket under it.

My tractor has the dip stick on the nearside of the axle for checking the oil level. What I do not understand is that when I checked it today there was no more leaking. So I figured all of the oil had drained from the axle. So why when I check the dipstick on the axle does it read ok, with the level between the lines? I see there are draining nuts at the bottom on both sides but I thought the fill point for the entire front axle was through the dipstick?

So what am I missing here? I figure that maybe the oil is still in the lower area below the leaking seal, but why then does the dipstick still read ok?

Please keep in mind that lm very green as far as tractors go but I did a similar repair on a B2150. The top part of the assembly is fed oil from the differential and the bottom of the wheel hub has its own well. Maybe all the leaking is coming down the axle from the differential. I know all the models of tractors can and are different and keep in mind I probably don't know what I'm talking about

 

[tinkerwitheverything]

From what I can tell by your picture it's leaking between the bolted together housing's. There's a o-ring between those two mating surfaces,check the tightness of those 4 bolts.If there tight then you'll have to replace the o-ring.

 

[RCW]

I know all the models of tractors can and are different and keep in mind I probably don't know what I'm talking about

John - just a suggestion - I think modeladay JUST did a similar repair, and he's probably pretty close, even if not the same model. His leak may have been a different seal.

I think he even called it easy!!

Good luck!!

 

[clay45]

On top of my left front axle was a dip stick for checking fluid levels. A search of old threads revealed that Kubota had come up with a vent to equalize pressure inside the axle to keep from blowing the front seals. I purchased one and the leaks stopped.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GENUINE-...-JAPAN-SURPLUS-STOCK-/151581383178?rmvSB=true

http://www.goldeneagledirect.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=107419

http://www.colemanequip.com/parts/KubotaParts/35080-99700/

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Sounds more like it' lost as little fluid, and it was overfull beforehand, possibly why it blew out that seal.

Drain it, split it, replace the seal or O-Ring, and fill to proper level, and check vent.

 

[modeladay]

John - just a suggestion - I think modeladay JUST did a similar repair, and he's probably pretty close, even if not the same model. His leak may have been a different seal.

I think he even called it easy!!

Good luck!!

It really was not bad at all, knowing what I know now the next time should only take an hour or so. Prying the old seals out was the hardest part.

Dusty , master Kubota mechanic

 

[John Corey]

Please keep in mind that lm very green as far as tractors go but I did a similar repair on a B2150. The top part of the assembly is fed oil from the differential and the bottom of the wheel hub has its own well. Maybe all the leaking is coming down the axle from the differential. I know all the models of tractors can and are different and keep in mind I probably don't know what I'm talking about

Hi mate
So on your machine did the diff oil feed down into both front wheel wells? Making it just one big reservoir? Or are there 3 compartments?

My diff oil level is fine. Yet the gear oil has been pouring out where it meets the wheel. So if my level up top is still fine then I imagine it must be empty down at the wheel well, meaning they are separate compartments?

If they are seperate where do you fill the wheel wells? I can see that there are drain plugs down low both sides of the tractor. I'm thinking that they maybe drain the entire diff?

Lastly mate , did you do the seals on both sides (wheels), or just the dodgy one?

I'm going to do what you did. Tomorrow I'm going to jump into the deep end and have a crack myself. Armed with my tool set which contains a pair of multi grips and long nose pliers. ***128527;

 

[John Corey]

On another note guys, in regard to the dip stick on the diff for checking gear oil level, to get a true reading do I screw the dip stick back in, or do I just place it back in the hole until it reaches the first thread?

 

[modeladay]

Hi mate
So on your machine did the diff oil feed down into both front wheel wells? Making it just one big reservoir? Or are there 3 compartments?

My diff oil level is fine. Yet the gear oil has been pouring out where it meets the wheel. So if my level up top is still fine then I imagine it must be empty down at the wheel well, meaning they are separate compartments?

If they are seperate where do you fill the wheel wells? I can see that there are drain plugs down low both sides of the tractor. I'm thinking that they maybe drain the entire diff?

Lastly mate , did you do the seals on both sides (wheels), or just the dodgy one?

I'm going to do what you did. Tomorrow I'm going to jump into the deep end and have a crack myself. Armed with my tool set which contains a pair of multi grips and long nose pliers. ***128527;

The B2150 has three separate Wells, there are fill and drain plugs on the wheel gear boxes and there is a fill plug on the axle near the differential and a drain plug on the bottom of the differential. The entire axle oil fills the differential and the top of the wheel gear box. The bottom of the wheel gear box has its own well. This is kind of hard to explain especially on two different tractors, I only changed one side and on mine there are two seals top and bottom where the two parts of the gear box are sandwiched together. I hope I explained it well, I know interpretation of this is hard but if I can do it anyone can...let me know how it turns out.

Dusty

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

On another note guys, in regard to the dip stick on the diff for checking gear oil level, to get a true reading do I screw the dip stick back in, or do I just place it back in the hole until it reaches the first thread?

Screw it all the way in to check level.

 

[John Corey]

Screw it all the way in to check level.

Thanks Wolfman. As always, I appreciate your help.

 

[John Corey]

The B2150 has three separate Wells, there are fill and drain plugs on the wheel gear boxes and there is a fill plug on the axle near the differential and a drain plug on the bottom of the differential. The entire axle oil fills the differential and the top of the wheel gear box. The bottom of the wheel gear box has its own well. This is kind of hard to explain especially on two different tractors, I only changed one side and on mine there are two seals top and bottom where the two parts of the gear box are sandwiched together. I hope I explained it well, I know interpretation of this is hard but if I can do it anyone can...let me know how it turns out.

Dusty

Thanks Dusty. You explained it well mate and I think I have a good idea now of what to do. Where the two housings meet there are 5 bolts, rather than the 4 you would expect. With 3 being at the top. So I'm assuming the top middle will be the filler. I will let you know how I go. For me parts can be an issue down under as mine is an old grey and genuine Kubota dealers treat us like the plague.

 

[John Corey]

From what I can tell by your picture it's leaking between the bolted together housing's. There's a o-ring between those two mating surfaces,check the tightness of those 4 bolts.If there tight then you'll have to replace the o-ring.

You were spot on mate. I've taken the housings apart and the o-ring has perished. Crickey it's not easy getting those housings to separate, even after I removed all 5 bolts.

Anyone know where I might find a part number for the seal. My tractor is a grey, Sunshine L1-22DT , about 35yrs old and Kubota dealers won't help me over here.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Take a picture of the whole front axle.
I think that has the same axle as another series of L's that are not grey's.
I might be able to figure it out.
Also look on the hosing for a cast in #.

 

[John Corey]

Take a picture of the whole front axle.
I think that has the same axle as another series of L's that are not grey's.
I might be able to figure it out.
Also look on the hosing for a cast in #.

It's all good Wolfman. I had a go at it today and took the o ring to a hydraulic/seal place and they matched it up with no probs. Dusty was right. It was a pretty simple job once you think it through. The only problem I had was separating the two housings. After I removed the 5 bolts I could not split them. It took me an hr or so just to get them apart.

At the same time that I found this leak I could hear a loud hissing noise. It was my rear tyre. Going down with a sidewall puncture. So even tho my axle does not appear to be leaking I won't be able to give it a decent test until I get a replacement tyre.

Thanks to everyone for all your help.

 

[D2Cat]

John, maybe you can find a tube easier then a tire. If the tire is not too bad it might last another 20 years!

 

[modeladay]

It's all good Wolfman. I had a go at it today and took the o ring to a hydraulic/seal place and they matched it up with no probs. Dusty was right. It was a pretty simple job once you think it through. The only problem I had was separating the two housings. After I removed the 5 bolts I could not split them. It took me an hr or so just to get them apart.

At the same time that I found this leak I could hear a loud hissing noise. It was my rear tyre. Going down with a sidewall puncture. So even tho my axle does not appear to be leaking I won't be able to give it a decent test until I get a replacement tyre.

Thanks to everyone for all your help.

Must be something in the air, I got a flat on the front with new tires and tubes and that's when and where my leak started.

 

[John Corey]

John, maybe you can find a tube easier then a tire. If the tire is not too bad it might last another 20 years!

That's a very good idea. You have got me thinking now. I have R1 Ags all round. They came with the tractor when I bought it. I own 5acres of horse paddocks, sand yard etc and the tyres are a bit over kill I think. They really tear up my grass and are terrible in sand.
Because my L1-22 is such a skinny tractor, I filled the rears (75%) with water and then 3 weeks ago I flipped them which gave me about a foot of extra stance. But when the tyre went down I noticed that there were a heap of nicks and dings in the sidewall. I had a look at the other tyre and its in perfect condition which I didn't understand. Then I noticed that the crappy tyre (I should spell that - tire - for you guys ***128512 was only 4ply. The good tyre was 8ply.

So I have been thinking about buying some R3 industrial tyres which have the ribbed tread and are less aggressive on the grass. It's just not that easy to find 9.5 x24 down here.