Fiddle farting around on the farm.

D2Cat

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Fine for a single wire and IF the wire needs to be stretched that amount. But with T post fencing often times when you tighten one wire it loosens the one above/below so you end up having to go back to each wire and tighten only enough to make them all taut. That is what makes the 'crimp' method so useful.

I can see that tool being useful in some situations....but in order for it to 'lock' you are committed to stretching the wire a certain amount (which might not be that easy to do or necessary). Crimping doesn't require you buy any special locks/keepers and works well enough IMO. A cow can/will stretch ANY strand of wire that hasn't reached its limits of elasticity.
When using T post and a wire or two gets stretched is is seldom only loose in one spot, it just sags more at one spot. I release the wire on a couple of post, at least one on each side and draw the wire tight then anchor the wire again. If I have to do all the wires there it's not a problem and when I'm done it's fixed.
 
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Russell King

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Absolutely. (y)

And while a determined 'cow' will find a way to stick its head through the wire and eventually re-stretch it....it is less likely they will do so if the wire is tight. Also, using fence 'stays' can help keep fencing in a condition that is less inviting for livestock to stick their heads through.

It is well worth the effort to keep barbwire tight but doing a mechanical re-stretch of the entire length just isn't feasible many times. Hence the need/practice of 'crimp' stretching....which works well enough in most situations.
These are great for stretching wire and fixing broken wires

expensive but can be reused

 
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Siesta Sundance

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Got a burn permit today, I think I started 9 or 10 piles today, some were pretty big fires. Hopefully most of it burns up over night and same favorable weather conditions tomorrow so I don't have a lot of tractoring to cover ashes/coals.
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Trapper Bob

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View attachment 98516

Got a burn permit today, I think I started 9 or 10 piles today, some were pretty big fires. Hopefully most of it burns up over night and same favorable weather conditions tomorrow so I don't have a lot of tractoring to cover ashes/coals. View attachment 98513 View attachment 98514 View attachment 98515
This is exactly what I need to do. I have brush piles all over. I do have a dozer coming to combine some piles & tighten up as many as possible to get the best, most complete burn. I have my fingers crossed for you.
 
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D2Cat

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Siesta Sundance

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This is exactly what I need to do. I have brush piles all over. I do have a dozer coming to combine some piles & tighten up as many as possible to get the best, most complete burn. I have my fingers crossed for you.
Appreciate ya. Good luck on your brush piles as well.

Looks like you're burning in the base of a pond (tank, in Texas!).
Yes sir, I reclaimed it last year. Prior land owner stopped caring for the land 15+ years ago.

Might want to mute the volume.

 
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D2Cat

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Appreciate ya. Good luck on your brush piles as well.



Yes sir, I reclaimed it last year. Prior land owner stopped caring for the land 15+ years ago.

Might want to mute the volume.

I had the volume on pretty low, but I speed up to 1 1/2 and it goes faster and the music is a bit different!!

That looks fun, at least for a while! That tooth on the SS is just like using a toothpick in the dirt.
 
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Siesta Sundance

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I had the volume on pretty low, but I speed up to 1 1/2 and it goes faster and the music is a bit different!!

That looks fun, at least for a while! That tooth on the SS is just like using a toothpick in the dirt.
It pulls the trees/brush up by the root, appoved method by usda for my area.
Some areas on the property the caliche is shallow. If you were to use a bull dozer, the trees/brush would break off and you will have a ton of regrowth.
 

Siesta Sundance

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I'm gonna have to cover the ashes and coals, there is a slight chance of rain but there is a big low pressure pushing down on Texas today/tomorrow and it's picking up winds from the gulf.

The afternoon decrease in humidity and strong increase of winds has me concerned, so it's best to put these out entirely.

4pm forecast today
Screenshot_20230322_070733_AccuWeather.jpg
 

D2Cat

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I'm gonna have to cover the ashes and coals, there is a slight chance of rain but there is a big low pressure pushing down on Texas today/tomorrow and it's picking up winds from the gulf.

The afternoon decrease in humidity and strong increase of winds has me concerned, so it's best to put these out entirely.

4pm forecast today
View attachment 98538
I don't thing anyone gets a burn permit with 30 MPH wind. Just have to keep uprooting! When it's ready what will you plant?
 

Siesta Sundance

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I don't thing anyone gets a burn permit with 30 MPH wind. Just have to keep uprooting! When it's ready what will you plant?
Mixture of native grasses and some improved grasses. I'm thinking about these, Plains Bristlegrass, Side oats Grama & Arizona Cotton Top. Improved grasses such as Bermuda Grass, Klein and Buffelgrass.
 

D2Cat

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Mixture of native grasses and some improved grasses. I'm thinking about these, Plains Bristlegrass, Side oats Grama & Arizona Cotton Top. Improved grasses such as Bermuda Grass, Klein and Buffelgrass.
There is a member of this forum that has prepared 20 acres or so for a grass that attracts Monarch butterflies. It is a project supported/funded by the Fed Govt (I think). A particular seed has to be planted, there is a designated time to mow, and it pays (something like CRP). Maybe you have something like that there?
 
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Flintknapper

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Appreciate ya. Good luck on your brush piles as well.



Yes sir, I reclaimed it last year. Prior land owner stopped caring for the land 15+ years ago.

Might want to mute the volume.

Amazing how much work can be done with a skid-steer and an accomplished operator.
 
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Siesta Sundance

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I got some new blades delivered for the brush cutter, I use this cutter underneath the Live oaks or along fences.

If you use a weed trimmer/eater a lot, I highly recommend an aftermarket market handle. These are Darwin grips, I think if you just regerister at his website and wait a few days, it will send a coupon to ya. I ordered 3 of them a few years ago. By using the grip/handle, you no longer have to bend at your lower back, definitely worth it IMO.
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Flintknapper

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I got some new blades delivered for the brush cutter, I use this cutter underneath the Live oaks or along fences.

If you use a weed trimmer/eater a lot, I highly recommend an aftermarket market handle. These are Darwin grips, I think if you just regerister at his website and wait a few days, it will send a coupon to ya. I ordered 3 of them a few years ago. By using the grip/handle, you no longer have to bend at your lower back, definitely worth it IMO.
View attachment 98611

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Grips of some sort definitely make it easier to cut brush. My Brush cutter came with handle bar handles and I hook the whole unit in a harness, that way the weight is distributed better.

Echo_SRM410U.JPG


HusQ harness.jpg
 
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Flintknapper

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What blades have you been using?
9" renegade for heavy grass, stemmy stuff, vines and saplings up 2.5-3". Or anyplace where it is dirty, the carbide holds up pretty well.

Brush Blade.jpg




For bigger saplings 3'-6" I change out to a 9" Beaver Blade (has chainsaw chain). I can hook the Beaver Blade on the back of the sapling and pull towards me.

Cuts them very quickly and the extra 'reach' of the straight shaft of the cutter lets me get to the base of what I am cutting without having to wade into the limbs. You have to sharpen the B-blade every hour or so...but you can cut a LOT in an hours time.
 
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Siesta Sundance

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9" renegade for heavy grass, stemmy stuff, vines and saplings up 2.5-3". Or anyplace where it is dirty, the carbide holds up pretty well.

View attachment 98622



For bigger saplings 3'-6" I change out to a 9" Beaver Blade (has chainsaw chain). I can hook the Beaver Blade on the back of the sapling and pull towards me.

Cuts them very quickly and the extra 'reach' of the straight shaft of the cutter lets me get to the base of what I am cutting without having to wade into the limbs. You have to sharpen the B-blade every hour or so...but you can cut a LOT in an hours time.
Yeah that is a bigger cutter for sure.

I'll have to try one of those renegade blades, I have a couple of those chainsaw ones, yeah they go dull pretty quick.
 

PoTreeBoy

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Yeah that is a bigger cutter for sure.

I'll have to try one of those renegade blades, I have a couple of those chainsaw ones, yeah they go dull pretty quick.
I've been using this Forester blade.
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I tried the non- carbide version first. It actually cut a little better when sharp, but I had to sharpen them every few hours. I work the carbide ones a week or two. Theoretically, they can be re-sharpened with a diamond file, but when I get through with them they're pretty chipped up.

I've cut sweet gum up to 5 or 6". Once, by mistake I got an 8" one. It didn't cut nearly as well since it didn't carry as much momentum.
 
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D2Cat

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When your forester style blade finally has broken/missing teeth or too short to sharpen, I went to the saw shop and asked for the longest tooth bulk chain he had. Ground the rivets holding the teeth off the blade and set it in the vice and began welding the new chain on (used a wire welder). Keep rolling it in the vice until all the way around. It's a cutting Jessie again!
 
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