Has any one found, modified, or tried to use a electric inline water pump to boost the cooling capicity of their radiator. Please tell me more, or any additional suggestions.
Electric inline water pump?
- Thread starter smokeys
- Start date
smokinhart
New member
Equipment
b6000E,B6100DT, King Cutter RM48, Front end Loader, Rear Blade,Gravel Reclaimer
Some Ford Mustangs had a 12 volt water pump. I think some Ford Lightning trucks do as well.
There are several electric water pumps in the $100 range out there. Try Summit racing etc.
There are several electric water pumps in the $100 range out there. Try Summit racing etc.
I don't think you would need to put one on, they do just fine cooling on their own. Just make sure if you do alot of mowing or in dusty areas to keep the radiator grill clean of debris. The tractor will let you know when its getting over heated you'll hear a loud whistle when its over heated.
My b7610 has the idiot gauge with C and H. The needle NEVER goes just above the C even on 100+ temp days at high rpm all day long.
If you suspect that there may be a problem then it's actually time for a coolant flush, at the least. Large chunks of rusty crap may warrent a tare down. Any add on electric cooling fans or what not will only cover big problems until really bad things happen.
Scott
If you suspect that there may be a problem then it's actually time for a coolant flush, at the least. Large chunks of rusty crap may warrent a tare down. Any add on electric cooling fans or what not will only cover big problems until really bad things happen.
Scott
Okay - I'm seven miles from "Tropis of Cancer" it is hot in summer and this old tractor comes without water pump. Hate to work it in loose sand, overheat it and crack head. Water pump and temperature gauge seams like cheap "preventative insurance"!
Thanks, Smokeys
Thanks, Smokeys
Hi Smokeye,
I know that the diesel engines, like any water cooled, will have a circulation pump. So there is already one on the tractor.
Do you have a temp gauge on the tractor? Not a basic C / H but one that reads in degrees. If it were me I would add that first before going too extreme. This way you can validate any concerns you have about overheating and causing damage.
Scott
Not necessarily! My B7100 has no water pump and simply relies on natural thermal circulation to move the water through the block and radiator. I'm not familiar with the L series but even if it is using thermal circulation with a clean radiator you shouldn't overheat! I use an infrared thermometer available just about anywhere these days for under $50. After I've worked the tractor and before I put it away I use the thermometer to check the temp of the radiator tank and if it is around 200 degrees I know the cooling system is working like it should if it is beginning to approach 215 I know that the radiator screen needs cleaning! I've heard of some adding a automotive temp sensor with an idiot light to let them know the temp is getting warm, but it requires a fitting to be soldered into the radiator tank! Hope this is helpful!
John
WOW! I actually find that very interesting, what a trip. Sort of like sweating copper plumbing the entire time the engines running. At least you have one less componant to fail
Scott
aquaforce
New member
Equipment
L245DT FEL, JD450 Track loader, 5' scrape blade&mower, 5x10 trailer, Dump truck
Hi smokeys
Hope all went well getting the tractor home.
Sorry I don't have some info for you yet on this question. That is where I am headed if I keep this tractor and the temp doesn't make me happy.
I started it up two days ago and watched to see how everything was going. It didn't take long to hit 185° on my guage and I had to shut it down because I had a water leak.
The book says use sealer with the gasket and I did not. That is a major taboo in the auto world but the sealer is obviously a MUST. I am waiting on a new gasket and I will install it with sealer.
Also the exhaust studs must be sealed. I had water pouring out of them too. I have pulled them out and sealed them up with #2 sealer.
The circulation pump that I was thinking to use on mine is from a Mercedes vehicle and it is used in the heater core hose. Low power low flow should be good.
I will post some more info on my other thread where I did the gage mods too.
This L175 has no water pump or thermostat and only relies on thermo movement of the water to cool the engine. Some others are this way too.
Hope all went well getting the tractor home.
Sorry I don't have some info for you yet on this question. That is where I am headed if I keep this tractor and the temp doesn't make me happy.
I started it up two days ago and watched to see how everything was going. It didn't take long to hit 185° on my guage and I had to shut it down because I had a water leak.
The book says use sealer with the gasket and I did not. That is a major taboo in the auto world but the sealer is obviously a MUST. I am waiting on a new gasket and I will install it with sealer.
Also the exhaust studs must be sealed. I had water pouring out of them too.
I have pulled them out and sealed them up with #2 sealer.The circulation pump that I was thinking to use on mine is from a Mercedes vehicle and it is used in the heater core hose. Low power low flow should be good.
I will post some more info on my other thread where I did the gage mods too.
This L175 has no water pump or thermostat and only relies on thermo movement of the water to cool the engine. Some others are this way too.
Unless you know you are overheating it should be cooling fine. Yours does not have a water pump and as stated before relies on convective circulation. This is a self regulating system that is why you will find it does not need a thermostat either. It is really a niffty trouble free system. Your only MUST DO is to keep the radiator clean.
All right everybody, I'm no person to start any junk, trust me. Like the saying goes: "Start no shit there'll be no shit".
But for the heck of it I googled Kubota L175 water pump and this link will sell one for $78.96. Is this a fluke or did some of them actually come with circulation pumps. I honestly don't know.
Scott
But for the heck of it I googled Kubota L175 water pump and this link will sell one for $78.96. Is this a fluke or did some of them actually come with circulation pumps. I honestly don't know.
Scott
aquaforce
New member
Equipment
L245DT FEL, JD450 Track loader, 5' scrape blade&mower, 5x10 trailer, Dump truck
Yes that is very decieving. Thes engine built with no pump were from the 70's and I think later models have a pump which is what is for sale. Just my speculation, I don't know for sure.
Once you got a look at the engine manual for a Z750 engine the whole story would be there.
There is really a lot of specifics that these type of cooling systems have to meet to properly work. Radiator must rise well above the engine cooling system, the bottom of the radiator must be below the bottom of the cooling jackets. The temp rise in the water causes the movement upward so that the "perculating" water rises through the water neck and "falls" down on the water level in the radiator. All this coupled with the pressure in the system and heat is effectively dissipated out of the engine. Where most of the trouble in these systems start is that these are designed to work with water only and the water is constantly evaporating off so the level is a constant maintenance item.
Yes that is very decieving. Thes engine built with no pump were from the 70's and I think later models have a pump which is what is for sale. Just my speculation, I don't know for sure.
Once you got a look at the engine manual for a Z750 engine the whole story would be there.
There is really a lot of specifics that these type of cooling systems have to meet to properly work. Radiator must rise well above the engine cooling system, the bottom of the radiator must be below the bottom of the cooling jackets. The temp rise in the water causes the movement upward so that the "perculating" water rises through the water neck and "falls" down on the water level in the radiator. All this coupled with the pressure in the system and heat is effectively dissipated out of the engine. Where most of the trouble in these systems start is that these are designed to work with water only and the water is constantly evaporating off so the level is a constant maintenance item.
Thank you for going into detail on the engine. That helped clear it up for me. Very strange cooling system, but it works.
Scott
aquaforce
New member
Equipment
L245DT FEL, JD450 Track loader, 5' scrape blade&mower, 5x10 trailer, Dump truck
I was thinking about this post today and I have a picture to show the water movement without the pump.
The diagonal cover on the front of this engine is the water passage where the cold water comes from the bottom of the radiator. At the top of this diagonal there is a tube that runs straight through the front cover to the block. As water is pushed down in the radiator the cold water is pushed into the top of the block right at the base of the cylinder head. The bearing mount above this passage is where the water pump on other models is located but on this Z750 that is only the fan mount bearing.
The water neck on the front of the cylinder head is where the heated water pushes up into the radiator and falls down on the water level which in turn circulates the water in this system.
The other picture shows the fan mounted with no water pump.
This should give a good visual of the system.
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Thanks Aquaforce, above and beyond! Those pictures really sum it up. So when you look under the hood and see the big riser it's pretty much a sign there is no pump.I was thinking about this post today and I have a picture to show the water movement without the pump.
The diagonal cover on the front of this engine is the water passage where the cold water comes from the bottom of the radiator. At the top of this diagonal there is a tube that runs straight through the front cover to the block. As water is pushed down in the radiator the cold water is pushed into the top of the block right at the base of the cylinder head. The bearing mount above this passage is where the water pump on other models is located but on this Z750 that is only the fan mount bearing.
The water neck on the front of the cylinder head is where the heated water pushes up into the radiator and falls down on the water level which in turn circulates the water in this system.
The other picture shows the fan mounted with no water pump.
This should give a good visual of the system.
Thinking about it, not having a pump really reminds me that a true diesel is supposed to be a basic engine.
Thank you for taking the time to follow up and post the pictures.
By the way, that engine is really nice and clean looking
Scott
Russell King
Well-known member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
I looked through all of the posts that I could find on this and it seems that no one in those have switched over to a electric pump.
Has anyone ever converted the thermo siphon system to the electric water pump?
I have a L185F with no overheat problem but am just curious if this modification has been done and made improvement in the cooling.
This website seems that the small pump is for adding to older cars with thermo siphon systems but it hooks to the heater hoses.
http://www.mawsolutions.com/html/electric_water_pumps.html
Has anyone ever converted the thermo siphon system to the electric water pump?
I have a L185F with no overheat problem but am just curious if this modification has been done and made improvement in the cooling.
This website seems that the small pump is for adding to older cars with thermo siphon systems but it hooks to the heater hoses.
http://www.mawsolutions.com/html/electric_water_pumps.html