Well I've be thinking about building a small dump trailer for my tractor for a while and then this little trailer showed up on CR. Got it for $125...I was happy with that. It currently dumps with a large jack stand and cable on the tongue. Now I'm trying to debate whether to beef up the frame and add a hydraulic cylinder to run off the tractor remotes or mount a winch and do a lift pole kinda of thing I see on youtube. Hydraulic cylinder seems the easiest, but then I'm stuck only using it with my tractor? Any advice would be welcomed.
Dump Trailer Advice
- Thread starter Builtough
- Start date
Daren Todd
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
Massey Ferguson 1825E, Kubota Z121S, Box blade, Rotary Cutter
Cheapest would probably be the winch. You can step it up to an electric winch, which can be found pretty reasonably. Then you would just need to add a plug to the back of the bota 
Hyd cylinder can be tricky, depending where pivot point is and length of cylinder.
A scissor style lift is your best option, a winch on a beefed up post is easiest but not the most effective. A winch is usually rated for pull and on second wrap of cable drum. Not rated for lift. So if you need 1000 lb lift ( minimum)a 4500 lb winch would be the lowest rated winch i would use. That gives you a small margin of safety.
I had 1000 lb on my ceiling, would barely lift a small block chevy and would wind down with the load. Cured it with a snatch block and doubling cable.
A scissor style lift is your best option, a winch on a beefed up post is easiest but not the most effective. A winch is usually rated for pull and on second wrap of cable drum. Not rated for lift. So if you need 1000 lb lift ( minimum)a 4500 lb winch would be the lowest rated winch i would use. That gives you a small margin of safety.
I had 1000 lb on my ceiling, would barely lift a small block chevy and would wind down with the load. Cured it with a snatch block and doubling cable.
I have a small trailer and when I want to use it as a dump trailer when carting mulch I hook the safety chains onto a eye bolt in the top of my front end loader. I can drive it into place and lift the loader to dump the mulch. The cost is about 20.00 for the titanium eye bolt....
coachgeo
Well-known member
Equipment
L225 w/woods Few Mowers & Back Blade, D722 in Motorcycle (Triumph Tiger), LMTV
You've attached tilt trailer to a ball on the Front of the tractor and chains to FEL?
or you've used a standard trailer attached to FEL mounted ball and lifted standard trailer?
coachgeo, I was thinking I don't have a loader that will reach high enough to dump a trailer attached to my drawbar!
coachgeo
Well-known member
Equipment
L225 w/woods Few Mowers & Back Blade, D722 in Motorcycle (Triumph Tiger), LMTV
Dump trailer not reaching enough tilt? or no dump trailer at all?
. Put high-quality tarp* in bed first.
. End of said tarp that overhangs end of bed by tailgate.... attach fix points for rope or?
. load trailer
. locate trailer about where you want load to lay
. Attach rope to tarp and to solid object on opposite end (tree?)
. drive away. Load stays behind as it slides from trailer.
*What is loaded in trailer too heavy for a tarp? Try:
Plywood,
Rubber mat
plywood screwed to pallets
Plywood box that fits inside dimensions of trailer
Above box made of combination of Tarp, fence wire, wood frame/pallets.
if you can get any metal on bottom of any of above.. this may help in sliding. Thick plastic sheeting orrr?
Not tried this...... just brain rambling
. Put high-quality tarp* in bed first.
. End of said tarp that overhangs end of bed by tailgate.... attach fix points for rope or?
. load trailer
. locate trailer about where you want load to lay
. Attach rope to tarp and to solid object on opposite end (tree?)
. drive away. Load stays behind as it slides from trailer.
*What is loaded in trailer too heavy for a tarp? Try:
Plywood,
Rubber mat
plywood screwed to pallets
Plywood box that fits inside dimensions of trailer
Above box made of combination of Tarp, fence wire, wood frame/pallets.
if you can get any metal on bottom of any of above.. this may help in sliding. Thick plastic sheeting orrr?
Not tried this...... just brain rambling
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I am in the process of converting my trailer into a dump trailer using a hydraulic scissor lift powered off the rear remotes on my L3800. I have already built the scissor lift from plans on the Internet and I am in the process of installing it on the trailer. I will send pictures when it is finished
Hi looking at the pictures it appears your box pivot is at the rear, if you were to move it forward about 2 ft. ( you'd have to shorten the frame) and figure approximately where the bottom front of the box would be when in a tilted position. Using a piece of tubing that curves over the top of the box when it's down, install your winch where it's easily accessible and a pulley at the top of your tubing with the cable attached at the bottom of your box. The weight of the load behind the box pivot helps to take weight off of the front also by lifting your 3pth up it makes it a lot easier. I built one like this (I call it a poor mans hoist) it works great, just remember to use the safety on the winch so it doesn't reverse on you ( don't ask me how I know this). Hope this is helpful Barry Sorry it's so long.
Guy used to come in the quarry with a trailer just like that. He had mounted a small winch and a battery on the tongue and doubled the cable for extra pull. Used the hot wire on the 7 way plug to charge the battery as he pulled it. Poor mans dump trailer but worked very well. I've thought about one for myself but can never find the time.
I will attach a pic of my "rig up" soon. Works perfect for me. I will look in the archives for a pic tonight if I cannot find one I will take one. Don't waste any money, should only cost the price of an eyebolt.
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Easy to modify to fit your own trailer, a shorter chain or rolling the bucket will lift it higher.
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thanks for the pics jcy110! That is a nice way to dump a trailer. But since mine is already set up as a dumper, the gearhead in me want to automate it! But I'm probably going to install an eyebolt or bolt on hook in the center for my non-dump trailer. I reviewed this with my farmer buddy last night over a few cocktails and he's got me convinced to just do a straight hydraulic cylinder run off my tractor remotes. Part of the convincing was that he has some cylinders laying around.
So now my question is if anyone knows the minimum upward angle the cylinder should be at when in the closed position. Most of the pics I look at online appear to be a very minimal angles (less than 10 degrees), but I know the flatter I install this thing the more stress its going to put on the rear hinges when it starts raising. Is there a rule of thumb for this?
So now my question is if anyone knows the minimum upward angle the cylinder should be at when in the closed position. Most of the pics I look at online appear to be a very minimal angles (less than 10 degrees), but I know the flatter I install this thing the more stress its going to put on the rear hinges when it starts raising. Is there a rule of thumb for this?
coachgeo
Well-known member
Equipment
L225 w/woods Few Mowers & Back Blade, D722 in Motorcycle (Triumph Tiger), LMTV
What is max extension you want to go of the cylinder(s) you have and max height the trailer tilt your willing to go? Your answer lies in matching cylinder mounts on each side based on those. Both will have to be pivoting mounts. If your creative mount it in the center with proper framing and put 3 sets of lock in/lock out hinges. Setup that way you can Tilt rear as you do know. Unlock rear hinges and instead lock in left or right side hinges and then dump sideways.... all with the same Cylinder.