Drilling loader frame for canopy support

bambam31

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L3800HST 4x4,R1,FEL, 6'disc, 5'bush hog,piranhaTB,6'grader,6'rake, 48"forks
Apr 3, 2014
315
26
23
Mobile, AL
I want to fabricate some supports for my canopy and have them connect to the loader frame. My thoughts were to fabricate some brackets and connect them to where I've circled by drilling and bolting. Then run the supports from the brackets to the canopy. Is this a bad idea?



 

Yooper

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3901 LA525
May 31, 2015
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Nothing wrong with that idea unless you want to remove the loader for some reason. The other place I have seen supports anchored to were the steps.
 

D2Cat

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Since you have loader control valve on the right loader tower you probably don't get on and off on that side.

I built a canopy for my neighbor's MX5200. I went from the front of the canopy back to the ROPS existing hole. It's out of the way, extremely stable, and no holes in any tractor parts. Once I determined the length of rod needed, I welded a washer at the bend and put a hole for a hair pin on the inside.
 

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chim

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L4240HSTC with FEL, Ford 1210
Jan 19, 2013
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Near Lancaster, PA, USA
Not for a canopy, but when I built my cab, I used the joystick bracket and built another opposite-hand bracket to bolt to the left side of the loader support. The cab connection that bolts to the bracket with one bolt on each side is a short piece of angle. Since the angle bears on the bracket, the bolt's main purpose is to keep the cab support from sliding around.

The loader isn't on the tractor unless I'm using it, and that allows me to have cab support whether the loader is on or off. The factory bracket and the one I made are pretty robust.

Th rear cab supports also have clip angles for bearing the weight, and a total of four bolts hold the cab to the tractor. Although I fabbed the cab in sections for easier on and off, I haven't removed it for about 5 years. I just lift the doors off in warm weather.
 

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bambam31

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Equipment
L3800HST 4x4,R1,FEL, 6'disc, 5'bush hog,piranhaTB,6'grader,6'rake, 48"forks
Apr 3, 2014
315
26
23
Mobile, AL
Thanks for the replies. Lots of good ideas here!
 

mikester

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M59 TLB
Oct 21, 2017
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www.divergentstuff.ca
I want to fabricate some supports for my canopy and have them connect to the loader frame. My thoughts were to fabricate some brackets and connect them to where I've circled by drilling and bolting. Then run the supports from the brackets to the canopy. Is this a bad idea?
If you have to ask the question then it's an indication that you don't know what you are doing.

It's a bad idea if you drill holes that are:
1. too big and/or too many
2. in the wrong place
3. in a high stressed spot

What can go wrong? At worst - sudden catastrophic failure, equipment and/or property damage, personal injury and/or death. At best, you just voided your warranty and have taken on a lot of liability with an unauthorized modification.

I personally would not do it nor would I ever recommend drilling lifting devices or safety devices - especially by unexperienced and unqualified persons.

Be also aware that flame cutting and/or welding should not be done to these components.
 

Jim Dandy

Member

Equipment
L245DT W/Loader M8030DT L275DT
If you have to ask the question then it's an indication that you don't know what you are doing.

It's a bad idea if you drill holes that are:
1. too big and/or too many
2. in the wrong place
3. in a high stressed spot

What can go wrong? At worst - sudden catastrophic failure, equipment and/or property damage, personal injury and/or death. At best, you just voided your warranty and have taken on a lot of liability with an unauthorized modification.

I personally would not do it nor would I ever recommend drilling lifting devices or safety devices - especially by unexperienced and unqualified persons.
Be also aware that flame cutting and/or welding should not be done to these components.
Mikester
The op came on this friendly site to get information. In what way did you help him? We all have to start somewhere. You took a lot of time to post a sarcastic condescending answer. Maybe next time spending that time with some friendly advice or just Cruise on by.
James
 

SidecarFlip

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M9000HDCC3, M9000HD, Kubota GS850 Sidekick
Oct 28, 2018
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That was a bit coarse but in reality, drilling holes in a loader frame is not the best idea and would most likely be frowned on by your dealer if you had a warranty issue. I like D2Cat's setup. No holes drilled, uses existing mounting points.

From what I see on here and other forums, people really ask a lot from their smaller tractors so why flirt with failure. Better to err on the side of safe operation and your personal safety as well.
 

85Hokie

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BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
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'spose you took something like this.....

https://images.homedepot-static.com.../silver-superstrut-struts-z500-25-64_1000.jpg

CLAMPED it too the loader frame - thus no holes and ran a bolt into the hole in this clamp?? One bolt holds firm, the other goes in the top mount.

One thing I will point out - the loader frame moves quite a bit, front to back - more like a flex, so whatever is attached will want to move too;)
 

beaterboss

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L3901, LA525-FEL, BMLX-3164 3pt Blower, 72" Coteck Sno Pusher, 60" Box Blade
Feb 20, 2017
152
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St.Francois,New Brunswick. Canada
'spose you took something like this.....

https://images.homedepot-static.com.../silver-superstrut-struts-z500-25-64_1000.jpg

CLAMPED it too the loader frame - thus no holes and ran a bolt into the hole in this clamp?? One bolt holds firm, the other goes in the top mount.

One thing I will point out - the loader frame moves quite a bit, front to back - more like a flex, so whatever is attached will want to move too;)
I used a set of those to mount a 6" PVC pipe with bottom cap, and top screw cap....to store my chains on the tractor. They are mounted to the rear of the loader frame, and offer easy on/off if desired.
 

nbking

Active member

Equipment
L2501HST 4X4, Rtv-x900
Jul 8, 2018
219
70
28
Sonora, CA
Granted mine is very light, a front aluminum brace, and a metal roof panel all rivited together. But I used small c clamps to hold the brace to each fel arm. And just a big bungee cord to hold it to the rops. It's just for when I snow plow, very easy to take off and on. Definitely wouldn't hold the weight of a whole cab. I too would be leary of drilling into the fel, rops etc.
 

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bearbait

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L3560, 64" snowblower, 72" back blade
Dec 9, 2011
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Not for a canopy, but when I built my cab, I used the joystick bracket and built another opposite-hand bracket to bolt to the left side of the loader support. The cab connection that bolts to the bracket with one bolt on each side is a short piece of angle. Since the angle bears on the bracket, the bolt's main purpose is to keep the cab support from sliding around.

The loader isn't on the tractor unless I'm using it, and that allows me to have cab support whether the loader is on or off. The factory bracket and the one I made are pretty robust.

Th rear cab supports also have clip angles for bearing the weight, and a total of four bolts hold the cab to the tractor. Although I fabbed the cab in sections for easier on and off, I haven't removed it for about 5 years. I just lift the doors off in warm weather.
Nice job chim, no worries where you poked the holes.