This morning I found out that the ABS light and the Emergency brake light have been coming on at different time in the OL's Durango, she says if she shuts it off then starts the lights go out,, no biggie for her I guess,, The question I have is this,, if the brake pads were worn or the rotors worn down below acceptable limits would there be a warning light ???? Maybe,, any ideas??? And no I have not jacked it up to see what the pads and rotors look like.
Dodge Guys
- Thread starter skeets
- Start date
Do they both come on at once when it happens?
The Ebrake light is usually also hooked to a fluid level sensor in the main reservoir. I'd check for low fluid first. Worn pads shouldn't cause any sort of light, I'd suspect a leak or an ABS sensor problem before the pads.
The Ebrake light is usually also hooked to a fluid level sensor in the main reservoir. I'd check for low fluid first. Worn pads shouldn't cause any sort of light, I'd suspect a leak or an ABS sensor problem before the pads.
A vacuum leak can cause that, also. Is the cruise control working correctly? How about the heater controls? They are both vacuum controlled, and can clue you in.
If both come on, it is a brake system issue, not pads or shoes.
If the lights stay on, you can get it scanned. Some parts stores can scan the ABS system. If you were close, I'd do it for you.
If both come on, it is a brake system issue, not pads or shoes.
If the lights stay on, you can get it scanned. Some parts stores can scan the ABS system. If you were close, I'd do it for you.
Kubota Newbie
Active member
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M4500, New Idea Cut-Ditioner, JD 14T Baler, IH "Plow Chief" plows, Oliver Rake
Check to make sure the switch on the E Brake pedal is fully compressed when the E Brake is disengaged. If the pedal isn't coming all the way back the it'll think it is still engaged and trigger the light.
Also check fluid level as mentioned.
Assuming that the pedal is good and firm and that there are no leaks???
Also check fluid level as mentioned.
Assuming that the pedal is good and firm and that there are no leaks???
That wouldn't trigger the ABS light, though.
Skeets, are both lights coming on at the same time, or seperate?
I knew it. I was just waiting for you to chime in, but I didn't quite expect that...
The Ford van that we used to own had an intermitent brake/abs light on. It isn't Dodge, it's vehicles- mechanical things break, and the more complex, the more they break.
I really cant tell you how they come on just that they come on, I asked that same question and got my head bit off for asking STUPID questions,
,wimmin go figure
I did pop the E brake a couple of times and that hasn't come back on but then the ABS light hasn't either,, now that I know about it I will have to ask more STUPID questions,, and the Durango is 10 years old and this is the fist hiccup I have had with it,, and I have never had any kind of luck with them off brand fords
,wimmin go figure
I did pop the E brake a couple of times and that hasn't come back on but then the ABS light hasn't either,, now that I know about it I will have to ask more STUPID questions,, and the Durango is 10 years old and this is the fist hiccup I have had with it,, and I have never had any kind of luck with them off brand fords
Russell King
Well-known member
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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
There are two things that I will suggest
1 - check the fluid level (as was already suggested) - this usually sets off a warning light that will go on and off a few times and then stay on until the fliud level is raised.
2 - Look on the floor board and see if you see any plastic parts that you have no idea where they came from. Usually they would be circular and soft plastic/rubber. On my brake pedal arm there was some "bumpers" that pushed on the brake light switchs. These got old and fell out of the arm. This left a hole and the switch was not being actuated. Good luck on getting them back into the holes - on my truck you would have to be a contortionist to get to them.
My vehicle was not a Dodge but that one just about had me going crazy until I remembered that I had picked up something off the floorboard a day or two before the warning light came on and starting looking up under the dash/pedal area.
1 - check the fluid level (as was already suggested) - this usually sets off a warning light that will go on and off a few times and then stay on until the fliud level is raised.
2 - Look on the floor board and see if you see any plastic parts that you have no idea where they came from. Usually they would be circular and soft plastic/rubber. On my brake pedal arm there was some "bumpers" that pushed on the brake light switchs. These got old and fell out of the arm. This left a hole and the switch was not being actuated. Good luck on getting them back into the holes - on my truck you would have to be a contortionist to get to them.
My vehicle was not a Dodge but that one just about had me going crazy until I remembered that I had picked up something off the floorboard a day or two before the warning light came on and starting looking up under the dash/pedal area.
I had a 95 GMC pickup that has an ABS light some on and off quite often and the Service Engine Soon light stayed on. Alot if times its just a glitch in the computer system and nothings really wrong. I put almost 200k mile on that truck when I got it used and I know the last 130k those lights came on and off and the truck kept on getting it!
rednecklimo85
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78 B6100E(brush hog, boxblade, snowplow) 85 B7200DT(loader and backhoe)
Low pads can indeed cause the light to come on. As the pads wear, the fluid level drop's and if it drops enough to trip the switch, the light comes on. And at the same time, sends a signal to the ABS system and there for turns off the ABS and turns on the ABS light.
Start by checking your fluid level, if the level is fine, you will have to take it to someone with a good scan tool, not an auto parts store. See if they can pull a code even tho the lights off. Kind of a long shot but your only other option is to drive right to a shop/store when the light comes on with out turning the truck off, so they can read the code. ABS lights can be a pain for this reason..
Alot of the dodge's also have a pressure switch. So if you were to blow a brake line it will pick up the loss of pressure on one leg of the system, and turn on both lights. Could simply be a bad switch.
Start by checking your fluid level, if the level is fine, you will have to take it to someone with a good scan tool, not an auto parts store. See if they can pull a code even tho the lights off. Kind of a long shot but your only other option is to drive right to a shop/store when the light comes on with out turning the truck off, so they can read the code. ABS lights can be a pain for this reason..
Alot of the dodge's also have a pressure switch. So if you were to blow a brake line it will pick up the loss of pressure on one leg of the system, and turn on both lights. Could simply be a bad switch.
rednecklimo85
New member
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78 B6100E(brush hog, boxblade, snowplow) 85 B7200DT(loader and backhoe)
Just because a vehicle a runs well with a light on does not mean its a "glitch". There are alot of systems that will set a light that have no effect on the way an engine runs. On a GM a brake/ABS light could very well be cause by a bad wheel bearing. Their wheel speed sensor's pick up a signal from inside the hub and they have a very tight air gap tolerance. A little bearing play could cause codes to be set and unwanted ABS activation.
The only thing your doing by ignoring a light, is making harder and therefor more expensive for a mechanic to fix it when it does need to be fixed. They have no idea what code came first and were to start.
The only thing your doing by ignoring a light, is making harder and therefor more expensive for a mechanic to fix it when it does need to be fixed. They have no idea what code came first and were to start.
I'll debate that point but I agree with everything else you said. Half the point of the resivoir is to allow for pad wear. In my experience as long as it was full when the pads were new and there aren't any leaks it shouldn't drop low enough to trigger the level switch.
Everyone makes good points though. It could be an ABS problem, the level switch, a pressure switch in one of the circuits, a vacuum switch in the booster, ect. I'll echo Mr. Limo here and say make sure the fluid is full and then try and get the code read before blindly replacing parts.
rednecklimo85
New member
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78 B6100E(brush hog, boxblade, snowplow) 85 B7200DT(loader and backhoe)
I had a ford ranger that would drop the fluid enough every time to turn the light on, even with the fluid at maximum with new pads. In MOST case's I will agree tho, as long as the fluid level was set correctly to begin with, but it's still a possibly.
Well at the time I had the truck my best friend was an ASE mechanic working for a GM dealer, we spent hours on end in his backyard one after noon and we went over ever single inch of the truck and everything was fine. Put a computer on it several times to pull codes and nothing came back. So for me it was a computer glitch.
While lights shouldn't be ignored, they do sometimes come on with no consequence. My wife had a Windstar, and the ABS light would come on. The ABS computer was under the van, underneath the driver. The master cylinder was notorious for leaking fluid, that would run down a wire bundle to the ABS computer, causing shorts and corrosion. The brakes worked fine, even the ABS worked, but the light would intermitently come on. The transmission went before the brakes gave any problem. It would pass inspection, too- even at the dealership.
Emissions issues are probably the biggest contributor to engine lights, and they can trigger for temporary issues. Engine lights will come on in some vehicles for routine maintenance reminders. So, they are as much of a nuisance as they are a help.
My inlaws had a Taurus that had a check engine light of for almost its entire history- many, many trips to a skilled and respected mechanic, never did find the culprit. They put a ton of miles on the car, no problems and no side effects (like decreased mileage or performance).
I've almost come to the point of ignoring the lights, unless it's oil or temperature. I've driven my Subaru now for over a year with the engine light on and it doesn't miss a beat. Same style Subaru I owned before this one, went three years with the engine light on, again didin't miss a beat.
I always felt it could be the factory programs the computer to engage a warning light every so many hours or miles causing people to go to the dealer for a $150 evaluation. Smart and easy way to make money for a vehicle that most wont take in for service until something happens to it
I always felt it could be the factory programs the computer to engage a warning light every so many hours or miles causing people to go to the dealer for a $150 evaluation. Smart and easy way to make money for a vehicle that most wont take in for service until something happens to it
Just take the bulbs out, those lights will never bother you again. Most warning lights are just a suggestion anyway. If they were important it would have a buzzer, bell or whistle.
That's the problem with a single problem light. You start to ignore it and then when a real problem arises you don't notice or don't listen. We checked lights for free at the Quick Lube. 90% of all the lights I saw where fuel tank evaporation emission leaks, nothing to worry for driving and often caused by the gas cap.