Can't remove flat tire on my BX23S

OrangeKrush

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BX2680, LA344 with Piranha tooth bar, LP PF 1242, LP Rear Blade, KK 60" BB
Nov 15, 2020
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Indy
The real problem is that the dealer over-tightened the lugs, he should be asked to come out and do it right with a torque wrench. I believe that all of the small tractors are shipped with the wheels in a separate package.

All of my lugnuts, sub-frame and other dealer installed bolts were loose or very loose, these things are usually assembled by the lowest paid and unqualified employees.

Tire shops that use an air powered impact wrench probably use torque sticks to achieve the proper torque. Note that these things may not work well with battery powered tools.

View attachment 77642
I don't use impacts much.. but those are pretty cool!

Edit.. I had to go out and look em up.. how do you know when it's at the right torque? Seems like if the pressure was up it would keep torquing beyond its specified torque. I read it was kinda like a torsion bar where it gives a little. Is it something that you just get use to the feel of it flexing and know when to stop? If not what's going to keep it from over torquing? Yes now I want some of these!
 
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lynnmor

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B2601-1
May 3, 2021
1,293
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Red Lion
I don't use impacts much.. but those are pretty cool!

Edit.. I had to go out and look em up.. how do you know when it's at the right torque? Seems like if the pressure was up it would keep torquing beyond its specified torque. I read it was kinda like a torsion bar where it gives a little. Is it something that you just get use to the feel of it flexing and know when to stop? If not what's going to keep it from over torquing? Yes now I want some of these!
The torque sticks twist a bit not allowing the impact wrench to grab its next click. They do prevent over tightening and the results are nearly right on. I wouldn't use them for critical work but for lug nuts they work great since a couple of pounds one way or the other is insignificant. Again, they are best used with air powered tools, and should be tested before use on others. I have checked lug nuts tightened that way at a tire dealer and they were spot on.
 
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jyoutz

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MX6000 HST open station, FEL, 6’ cutter, forks, 8’ rear blade, 7’ cultivator
Jan 14, 2019
2,458
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Edgewood, New Mexico
Then,....... put your full body weight on that "long pipe" extension,.... "for even more leverage", and jump up and down on it as well......and repeat.... so that you can then snap one or more of the studs/bolts off.
It is obviously a much more convenient method:cry: than using (the proper tool) an impact wrench!
Never had a need for an impact wrench; the breaker bar works great and I don’t snap off bolts. You have to spray WD 40 on the nuts before removing them.
 

OrangeKrush

Well-known member

Equipment
BX2680, LA344 with Piranha tooth bar, LP PF 1242, LP Rear Blade, KK 60" BB
Nov 15, 2020
1,047
514
113
Indy
The torque sticks twist a bit not allowing the impact wrench to grab its next click. They do prevent over tightening and the results are nearly right on. I wouldn't use them for critical work but for lug nuts they work great since a couple of pounds one way or the other is insignificant. Again, they are best used with air powered tools, and should be tested before use on others. I have checked lug nuts tightened that way at a tire dealer and they were spot on.
Thanks for the info.. think I'll pick some up and I would just use on torquing things not super specific or critical. At least I could get close and know I'm not over torquing something accidentally.
 

fried1765

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Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Nov 14, 2019
6,316
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Eastham, Ma
Never had a need for an impact wrench; the breaker bar works great and I don’t snap off bolts. You have to spray WD 40 on the nuts before removing them.
WD-40 is absolutely worthless junk, hyped to the maximum, for highly profitable consumer sales.
 

fried1765

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Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Nov 14, 2019
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Eastham, Ma
??? It displaces water as advertised. Does exactly what it was designed for. Does it much better than the first 39 version ;)
The most significant clue:
It does not have a military specification (Mil. Spec.)
Translation: The military sees no value in it's use!
 

Freeheeler

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b2650 tlb
Aug 16, 2018
704
519
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Knoxville, TN
The most significant clue:
It does not have a military specification (Mil. Spec.)
Translation: The military sees no value in it's use!
Neither does water, but I bet the military sees value in it's use.
But yeah, I was being sarcastic, I agree it's overhyped.
 

Biker1mike

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B6200, Kubota 2030 Front Blade, King Cutter 60" finishing deck
Jan 11, 2022
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Neither does water, but I bet the military sees value in it's use.
But yeah, I was being sarcastic, I agree it's overhyped.
MIL-W-15117
Revision F, December 18, 1987
Complete Document
WATER, DRINKING, CANNED, EMERGENCY


No longer an active spec. But leave it to the military to have spec'd it at one time.
 

OrangeKrush

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BX2680, LA344 with Piranha tooth bar, LP PF 1242, LP Rear Blade, KK 60" BB
Nov 15, 2020
1,047
514
113
Indy
WD-40 is absolutely worthless junk, hyped to the maximum, for highly profitable consumer sales.
I found years ago that it works great for road tar removal on vehicles.
 
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NCL4701

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L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572 box scrape, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
Apr 27, 2020
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Central Piedmont, NC
Just read through this thread. Wow! Didn’t know R/I lug nuts could generate this much discussion or illicit such impassioned discourse. Impressive…

Makes me a bit tempted to start a thread on how to properly add fuel to a tractor with the fuel cap in the center rear of the hood just to see the extent of the resulting scrum.
 
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OrangeKrush

Well-known member

Equipment
BX2680, LA344 with Piranha tooth bar, LP PF 1242, LP Rear Blade, KK 60" BB
Nov 15, 2020
1,047
514
113
Indy
Just read through this thread. Wow! Didn’t know R/I lug nuts could generate this much discussion or illicit such impassioned discourse. Impressive…

Makes me a bit tempted to start a thread on how to properly add fuel to a tractor with the fuel cap in the center rear of the hood just to see the extent of the resulting scrum.
Don't get em started..😳
 

GreensvilleJay

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BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Apr 2, 2019
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Greensville,Ontario,Canada
re: how to properly add fuel to a tractor with the fuel cap in the center rear of the hood

SIMPLE !!! Have the 'engineer' who designed it , SHOW you how it's done !;)
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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Sandpoint, ID
Just read through this thread. Wow! Didn’t know R/I lug nuts could generate this much discussion or illicit such impassioned discourse. Impressive…

Makes me a bit tempted to start a thread on how to properly add fuel to a tractor with the fuel cap in the center rear of the hood just to see the extent of the resulting scrum.
Oh we've been down that road a time or two:



 

NCL4701

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L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572 box scrape, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
Apr 27, 2020
2,489
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Central Piedmont, NC
re: how to properly add fuel to a tractor with the fuel cap in the center rear of the hood

SIMPLE !!! Have the 'engineer' who designed it , SHOW you how it's done !;)
If the first engineer who came up with that design lived to be 100 he still would have died at least 30 years ago. He can’t show me so I have to rely on y’all to make sure I’m doing it right.

Being this is a Kubota forum I’ll skip the goofiness required to use a 5 gallon can to fuel the H with trip bucket loader and 3 point hitch. If I ever need to kill an OSHA inspector I’m pretty sure an otherwise healthy one would have a stroke just watching that process.

The Kubota is much easier. Start with a 6 gallon can of diesel in left hand. Left foot on step, set can on left knee, right hand on left fender grab handle. Step/pull up to operator platform swinging can forward past steering wheel as it comes off left knee. Wipe off fuel cap and surrounding area to keep junk out of fuel tank. Remove fuel cap and set upside down on hood. Uncap diesel can. Plug spout with left index finger. Set front edge of butt of can (it’s plastic) on top of dash wedged against front of steering wheel. Tilt can down with right hand while forcing spout into fuel tank. Remove finger from end of spout immediately before inserting in tank. Wipe diesel off finger on left thigh/butt cheek of pants. Remove air vent cap from can (it’s an old pre-CARB can). Can is now resting on hood. Hang around to make sure it doesn’t fall off but otherwise no need to even keep touching it. When can empty, pick up can. Recap air vent, spout, and fuel tank. Wipe up any minor spills on hood. Put can in back of pickup to be refilled next time in town.

My brother has a fuel cube and a pump for his tractors. I have no idea why. He said something about our various rebuilt leg joints and not having to monkey climb equipment with 5 gallon cans but it didn’t make much sense to me.
 

NCL4701

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L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572 box scrape, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
Apr 27, 2020
2,489
3,508
113
Central Piedmont, NC
Oh we've been down that road a time or two:



I haven’t seen one lately and I have the memory of a goldfish. 😉
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
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I haven’t seen one lately and I have the memory of a goldfish. 😉
I've given you 3 to look at.
If you need more you can go to the Magnifying glass on the upper right of the page and type in fuel, you'll find more threads /posts than one should ever read!
 
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