BX2380 Hydraulics Testing

[organictoon]

Howdy from Texas everyone!!!

This will be my first post to the forum and look forward to learning from others and educating others in the future as I add to my limited wisdom on tractors.

So my question is around the hydraulics testing:

1. I am interested in is testing the hydraulic pressure. My BX2380 seems to be slightly different but I get the general idea of what I need just not the exact tools.


I have a 3rd function installed on the tractor for the grapple and I intend on going through this as a testing port. The part number/description of that coupler is SH21-14P SH20 1/4" 9/16-18 Female ORB. Which sticks out of the machine as a male nipple not a female, I believe the 9/16 female is referring to the threaded aspect.

So I understand I need a Gauge, a hose, and a coupler to get this started but I am having a hard time finding locally at hardware stores. Another thing is that I am not competent enough to find the parts online. Can anyone maybe point me to the items I need or what they should be called or the items in general?

 

[Tractor Dell]

Hi there! I have BX23S, which is basically the same as yours, and I built my own tester. Here is what I got:

Flat face connector: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XBBF57C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 You get both male and female, but the price was about the same as getting just one from other sources.
Pressure guage: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0087UYQQY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hose: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GZJKOPQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Adapter to connect gauge to hose: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BINR9P2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am doing this from work, so I think that is all I needed to test the pressure. I did buy some shims from my local Kubota dealer to make adjustments to the pressure, and they are very cheap.

Oh, I tested at both the FEL connection, and the power beyond connection. It is easy to remove the FEL, do the testing and then put it back on after making any needed adjustments. The reading was the same at both places.

Hope this helps!

 

[85Hokie]

Tractor Dell did a great job getting the parts.....
I cheated and bought the kit! Knowing what I know now....I would have built it.

When you get your first reading, with machine running about 2.5 K rpm's - test PSI and write down. IF you allow it to get "warm" - expect the PSI to drop a bit.

I am gonna guess that you will be around 1750-1800 PSI......cold
a little shim will get you 20 or so, in multiples you can get close to 100 PSI. I would not break 2000 PSI however.

I added about 100 psi - I DID NOTICE a difference. The kit cost me about $80 back when, been well worth it!

 

[organictoon]

WOW!!

Thanks for the prompt response guys!!

Is that kit specifically for hooking up to the 3rd function or will it go to the quick coupler as well?

I just spoke with BXpanded and they are coming out with the BX80 series test/shim kit very shortly..

Anyways, I am actually trying to start here as a troubleshooting measure to see where my pressure is sitting at because I have blown one o-ring on the Third Function Kit up front that I replaced and I also just noticed that two ports on my quick coupler are now leaking under any load with the loader. So either I

a. Have terrible o-ring luck

b. Have "too" much pressure

c. Something is jacked up with the relief system?


I have the shop manual so I am trying to figure it all out by myself. The tractor is under warranty (it is only 3 months old) BUT I have no trailer and I would like to keep this a while and want to learn how to work on it. The dealer has already sent me parts for me to replace and I have done well so far.

I broke the loader stand because the right leg did not collapse (binded up) and I barely had pressure on it and that cheap aluminum weld on the loader stand release broke.

Also when this tractor got delivered to me the loader valve was over tightened and so it was sticking and when I tried to reconnect for the first time the loader literally came over and hit the tractor.... Dealer took ownership due to the valve being over tightened...

Sorry for the other useless information.... I am just a first time tractor owner and finding that it ain't all just ride it hard and put it away wet... You REALLY have to take care of these fellas (or ladies)...

 

[85Hokie]

What does the manual say is the relief pressure valve set to?

And if under warranty - be careful as to increasing the PSI......they might see that as a NO-NO!

 

[Dave_eng]

Howdy from Texas everyone!!!

This will be my first post to the forum and look forward to learning from others and educating others in the future as I add to my limited wisdom on tractors.

So my question is around the hydraulics testing:

1. I am interested in is testing the hydraulic pressure. My BX2380 seems to be slightly different but I get the general idea of what I need just not the exact tools.


I have a 3rd function installed on the tractor for the grapple and I intend on going through this as a testing port. The part number/description of that coupler is SH21-14P SH20 1/4" 9/16-18 Female ORB. Which sticks out of the machine as a male nipple not a female, I believe the 9/16 female is referring to the threaded aspect.

So I understand I need a Gauge, a hose, and a coupler to get this started but I am having a hard time finding locally at hardware stores. Another thing is that I am not competent enough to find the parts online. Can anyone maybe point me to the items I need or what they should be called or the items in general?

You have a tractor under warranty, don't mess with it thinking you know how to get more out of it than the designers at Kubota.

The WSM is not a "how to," book but rather a reference for someone who has a strong knowledge base and needs detailed info on a specific system

The hydraulic systems are much more complicated than a wood splitter setup.

For example, and perhaps not on your tractor, the main hydraulic pump supplies the FEL valve which then, through a power beyond port supplies the 3 pt and remotes.

What this means is that in effect there are two relief valves. One in the FEL valve and another for the 3 pt and rear remotes. However, the FEL relief valve affects what pressure the rear 3 pt and remotes have to work with.

Some tractors with power steering have a priority flow control valve which takes fluid from the main hydraulic pump and sends enough to the power steering to satisfy it first.

My point is not to confuse you but rather show you how much there is to learn.

To quote you: "with my limited wisdom on tractors" I suggest you don't start jumping in on one of the most complicated systems on your machine.

Spend some extra money and have the dealer send a mechanic to your place to service your tractor. Give him a $20 tip before he starts and ask him to show you about your machine. It will be money well spent.

With electrical systems, connect a jumper cable backwards and your alternator and flyback diodes may be history in an instant.

With the hydraulic system, dead end a line by mistake or lack of knowledge and you may hear the crack as a valve casting splits. All very expensive.

Remember you have purchased a small tractor not a D-10 Cat dozer. Treat your machine well and it will serve you for the rest of your life.

Look forward to reading other posts from you.

Dave

 

[Tractor Dell]

What does the manual say is the relief pressure valve set to?

And if under warranty - be careful as to increasing the PSI......they might see that as a NO-NO!

According to my owners manual, the pressure should be 1790 to 1850 PSI. When I checked mine initially, it was at 1800 at idle and 1850 at 2200 RPM. After adjusting it, it is now 1900 at idle and 1950 PSI at 2200 RPM, which is about my normal operating RPM.

I definitely noticed the difference when I bumped it up. There are a lot of posts (and youtube videos) about adjusting it on a BX. It is very simple to do, and as long as you stay under 2000 PSI, no one (that I could find) has reported any problems.

Oh, my 3rd function has larger connectors (3/8 inch) on it than the other connectors. They are all 1/4 inch, so I built it to use on the FEL connector, or the power beyond connector.

 

[organictoon]

Thank you for all of the help and advice.

My goal here is ultimately just to check the pressure because I would like to know if that is what is blowing seals. My tractor does plenty and I don’t intend on turning it up. I was an aircraft Engine mechanic in The Navy for five years so I’m trying to do is get my feet wet with hydraulics no pun intended. I amnot making any adjustments just trying to understand the system better and replace o-rings when they blow and do basic tractor maintenance.

 

[lugbolt]

The BX has a hard enough time without cranking the pressures up. It's a tiny tractor, aka overgrown lawn mower. Remember this.

Also remember what happens to hydraulic oil as you increase it's pressure. It heats up. And remember that the BX does not have any sort of oil cooler. It has fins on the HST and a tiny plastic fan in front of it and that is ALL that cools the hydraulic fluid. Even a "slight" 100 psi increase in pressure can cause excessive heating. And that's with a working fan which is plastic and known to break in certain usage conditions. Where the fan is at, you may never even know it's broken until the HST dies a horrible death and then you get to spend lots of money.

If you need the extra digging pressure, shoulda got a real tractor, IMO.

Also worth mentioning is how the engine's operated. It should run full throttle, 3500 RPM. It sounds like you're going to tear it up but it won't. It's designed to run full throttle all the time. That little HST cooling fan is attached to the drive shaft which is directly connected to the engine, so the faster it turns, the more air it pumps over the HST to cool it. And the more air is pumped through the (hopefully clean) engine radiator, therefore cooling the engine. Lugging them is not good in any way shape or form. Also need to look at the HST fan once in a while to make sure it's still there.....

I thought they needed a dedicated hydrualic oil cooler but apparently Kubota omitted it with the thought that if the tractor is used as designed and maintained at least per the manual, that it will live a reasonably long time.

 

[Tractor Dell]

Just a few thoughts about the new 80 series. There is a new tach on the tractors that give a good indication of what RPMs are needed to do certain tasks. As mentioned, you can run it wide open and you will be fine. However, depending on what you are doing, you don't really need to do that. I have attached a screenshot of the tach. 2 to 3k is good for FEL and backhoe work. The PTO needs about 3200 for the correct PTO speed.

As for the fan, yes.. that is a major issue. One the first things I purchased was the BXpanded under armor. http://bxpanded.com/BX-under-armor Definitely look into that, or something similar. It will save you a lot of headaches down the road.

Just wanted to note that I do not claim to be an expert in any sense of the word when it comes to tractors. However, I did spend over a year researching the BX series and read more posts, and watched more videos than I want to admit. I knew what I wanted to get done, what tractor (I wouldn't call it an "overgrown lawn mower") would get the work accomplished, and what accessories I wanted to get before I even ordered it. I had the wheel spacers and under armor at my house before the BX even showed up. Youtube, this forum and TractorbyNet.com can be very helpful. If you have a question, most likely someone has already asked it, or the people will be very helpful in answering. You got a great little tractor. Most people are more than pleased with their selection, and I am sure you will be too.

 

[D2Cat]

Tractor Dell, you make a very good point, " Youtube, this forum and TractorbyNet,com can be very helpful. If you have a question, most likely someone has already asked it, or the people will be very helpful in answering."

I am amazed at some of the questions asked on this forum that could be answered for them by doing a search....and they'd find the answer quicker then it took them to post the thread in this forum, much less wait for someone to answer.

The concept of due diligence is rare these days. You did your homework and end up with exactly what you want/need. That sure is a good way to not have buyer's remorse, or to come to a forum and ask if you got a good deal after the purchase!!

 

[85Hokie]

to add to what Lugbolt said "That little HST cooling fan is attached to the drive shaft which is directly connected to the engine, so the faster it turns, the more air it pumps over the HST to cool it"

You guys(girls) that have a BX series ......take a look at that fan, I mean, not to check the blades for breakage - do that too, but look at all the gunk and crap that is on the fins of the HST and the gunk on the fan!!!!

As Lug said - that little ol $13 fan is ALL the cooling that the machine has! If (and it is going to be) dirty and gunked up, there is not a lot of cooling going on.

I had to change the fuel filters the other day - jacked the machine up, took off the shield and took a flashlight and looked up..........holy bat shye batman.....there was enough stuff there to make a small garden! It took me another 30 minutes to clean each blades and blow all that crap off the fins. THAT in itself ought to be part of the 50/100 hour service plans.

We all worry about the chaff in the radiator, and overheating the coolant - but very few worry about the hydraulics overheating - and we should

 

[organictoon]

Definitely,

I am a research nut as well and researched for at least 6 Months about thess tractors and I am INCREDIBLY happy with my purchase. I have already bought and used the under armour, pirahna tooth bar, grapple, box blade, mid mount mower, and ratchet rake. I feel like I am running out of work so fast lol.... this tractor is a beast. My neighbour has a 40HP deere that he lets me use if mine cant do it, but honestly I have not ran into that yet. In plus I only have 4 acres, he has 1.5 of usable acreage so I think my tractor is appropriately sized to my land and his is just overkill. I just need to get these minor bugs worked out and learn my equipment better.

Thanks again, I also ordered that same set up from amazon that you suggested and will check back in on this thread with the results of my tests.

 

[Tractor Dell]

Yea, let us know what you find. Kind of interested why you are having those issues.

As for my research, I was looking at the 70 series, and went to the dealer to get the numbers. When I got back home, I was going to do one "last" little check, as I usually don't make snap decisions. While I was doing that, the Canadian Kubota website popped up with news of the new 80 series, so I had to do more research into that! Ugh.... Haha

 

[Dave_eng]

Yea, let us know what you find. Kind of interested why you are having those issues.

As for my research, I was looking at the 70 series, and went to the dealer to get the numbers. When I got back home, I was going to do one "last" little check, as I usually don't make snap decisions. While I was doing that, the Canadian Kubota website popped up with news of the new 80 series, so I had to do more research into that! Ugh.... Haha

In Canada, a tractor with 60 + pto horsepower is deemed farm equipment and is non taxable even if you are not a farmer. That is how I saved 13% on my M7040

Dave