Bead keeps pinching the Tube

[knightgang]

Man, if not one thing it is another. First got my tractor, we picked up a piece of wire and damaged the tube. Me know knowing it was a tube destroyed it tryingt o repair the tire. So, get another tube, install it and all was well for several months, until the tire found barbed wire. Another puncher. Okay, I will patch the tube and I did. However, put the tire back together and it went flat again the next week.

Took it down again and found that the bead was pinched. So I patched that spot as well. Longer story short, I have put in new tube and already have repaired two pinch spots in it and I can;t seem to get the tire to hold air linger than a week.

I have checked the wheel and everything seems smooth, nothing sharp of snaggy that would seem to hang and damage the tube. I have run my hand along he bead of the tire and I can't find any obvious cause of the continued pinching.

I have used tons of liquid soap along the bead of the wheel and tire during inflation to give a smooth surface and I have also used liberal amounts of grease hoping that things will not pinch. Nothing so far has worked (although grease was on the last attempt and I have not yet broken it down to see exactly why it went flat the last time).

I have another good tube and I just might in stall it this week, but I need a god, full proof method to assembly and inflation that will not pinch the tube. I have thought about splitting one of the old tubes to wrap around the new tube inside the tire so that maybe it will prevent the tube from being pinched even if it gets pinched itself.

Any other ideas or suggestions? Breaking this tire down is getting old.

 

[boz1989]

More than likely the damage is coming from your tire iron during installation. What I found that works for me is to inflate the tube so it stays out of the way, not too hard or you will fight it. Lube helps, some tires are just stiff and a pain. Be careful not to put the bar in any further than necessary, and take your time. Always work towards the vavle stem. Writing this reminds me why I like tubeless tires... Good luck, Tim

 

[William1]

Yup, inflate the tube enough to give it shape. Talcum powder. Tire on, inflate slightly, deflate (take the tube valve core out) and squeeze the tire all around, ensure no tube is visible. Inflate slightly. Recheck/confirm no tube is visible, inflate fully. Some inflate and deflate several times to get the tube and tire to 'relax' with one another.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I would suggest that if your having a wire puncture the tire/tube so easily, you might need to look at getting new tires, sounds like they are soft and thin.
Also if your working in a lot of trash, have them boot the tire too, gives it a second layer of protection.

 

[knightgang]

More than likely the damage is coming from your tire iron during installation. What I found that works for me is to inflate the tube so it stays out of the way, not too hard or you will fight it. Lube helps, some tires are just stiff and a pain. Be careful not to put the bar in any further than necessary, and take your time. Always work towards the valve stem. Writing this reminds me why I like tubeless tires... Good luck, Tim

Pretty sure it is not the tire irons, I use the cup lip side when reinstalling, working towards the valve stem as you said. I barley even lip the iron into the wheel, only enough to wrap the tire over the wheel edge. Besides, this is an R4 tire and when the tube is deflated and the wheel on its side, I bet the tube is at least 8-10 inches away from the irons.

Yup, inflate the tube enough to give it shape. Talcum powder. Tire on, inflate slightly, deflate (take the tube valve core out) and squeeze the tire all around, ensure no tube is visible. Inflate slightly. Recheck/confirm no tube is visible, inflate fully. Some inflate and deflate several times to get the tube and tire to 'relax' with one another.

I have not tried the talcum powder, but did the soap and grease. I have not tried the inflate and relax cycle method while seating the bead. That just might be the ticket I have been missing. I will break it down again tonight or tomorrow and see where the issue lies this time. I almost hope that this time I find that a patch did not hold.

I would suggest that if your having a wire puncture the tire/tube so easily, you might need to look at getting new tires, sounds like they are soft and thin.
Also if your working in a lot of trash, have them boot the tire too, gives it a second layer of protection.

I am not working in a trash lot, I am working our raw wooded property in preparation for a house build. However we have uncovered some old barbed wire fence that was down and under the top layer of straw and leaves. A broken end or two has gotten us, but I think we have already found all that there is so we know where to be careful.

Yes, the tires are old and thin, I am contemplating replacement, but if I can get past this issue with another $100 worth of tubes vs $500-$1000 worth of new tractor tires, I will try that. I tol dme wife that if I can't solve this problem soon, the solution will be new tires and foam filled for weight and guaranteed no flats.

I am planning the inner tube boot on the next breakdown, that along with the talcum powder and the inflate relax cycle method and I hope to have this licked.

 

[knightgang]

Well, this most recent flat incident was not a bead pinch. I guess I finally figured out how to get it in without pinching.

But, it was a torn valve stem seat. It ruined that tube. So, I used that bad tube to wrap a boot around the next tube that went in. Used a ton of talcum powder around the tube and inside the tire. Took extra time and care to do my best to ensure that the valve stem was lined up correctly.

I also used the inflate/relax method while airing up and seating the bead. I probably did that cycle 4 times while getting the bead to seat then once I was pretty well seated I let the tube relax one last time and then filled to 12 psi.

I checked the tire this morning (back on the tractor) and it was still holding air and no sign of leaks. Cross your fingers for our next outing on Saturday that all goes well and it continues to hold air.

 

[D2Cat]

knightgang, if the tire stays up throughout the weekend sounds like you've earned your diploma. Where do we send it?

 

[knightgang]

Two days of work now, tire still holds air


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[tiredguy]

Here's my 2 cents for what it's worth installing tubes.

NEVER USE GREASE ON TIRES AND TUBES! Use Murphy's Oil Soap if you don't have regular tire mounting compound ( Murphy's brand is the most popular and contains no petroleum as oil-grease etc destroys rubber ) for lubing the beads so they slide over without cutting or tearing. If you don't happen to have the Murphy's use dish soap diluted with water so it's slippery and won't dry out to quickly before you get it done. To much lube is not good as it can cause the the rim to slip or spin in the tire which will rip the valve stem off the tube. Talcum powder the tube and inside of the tire it will allow the tube to move within it while airing up and lesson the chance of getting a wrinkle which will cause a pinch failure most of the time sooner or later.

With the first bead on rim valve hole up so you're looking at the hole the valve on the tube should be pointing up looking at you. Put a little air in so that you can be sure you're not twisting it ( it will suck the valve inside the tire if you do twist it ) and tuck the tube inside the tire put the valve through the rim and put a device such as a unattached clip on air chuck to hang onto it so it doesn't slip back out of the hole. Then a pair of Vise Grips on the rim to keep it as an anchor for the bead to keep it from popping back off. I always ( was taught this way many years ago ) start working the bead over the lip near the valve after having the tire bead down there working away from the valve as I go around so that you end up not being close to the valve stem when I'm done. Then I check to be sure the tube is completely inside the tire not pinched between the tire and rim, and start inflating while until the bead seats and NEVER EXCEED 35LBS of air pressure to seat the bead. Once the bead is seated let the air completely out and always have something attached to the valve stem so it doesn't get sucked into the tire ( to avoid having to break the bead down and possible taking that side back off the rim ) until all the air is out relaxing the tube then air up to operating pressure.

Safety Note:NEVER STAND IN FRONT OF THE TIRE WHILE AIRING IT UP TO SEAT THE BEAD!!!!! REPEAT-NEVER STAND IN FRONT OF THE TIRE WHILE SEATING THE BEAD!!! The reason you don't is because if the tire happens to have a broken bead while mounting ( number one cause of broken beads ) it
will blow off of the rim and the force is incredible and DEADLY. Stand facing the tread so you can see it at an angle and always as with any air tool of any type wear safety glasses to protect your most valuable asset your eyes.
Even the very best and most experienced tire changers have accidents and
unfortunately I knew a very nice young man that was killed while inflating a tire during this procedure and even now my eyes are watering remembering
that terrible horrible loss as I'm typing this up.
So safety first or take it to a tire shop to avoid yourself injury and unless one
is very experienced many times you'll save the cost of several tubes if they get pinched while mounting or rip the valve stem off. No tire is worth your life or loss of limbs or sight period. Same goes for jacking the tractor up and removing and installing a tire, adequate jack stands for safely blocking it or sturdy wood timbers ( never cement blocks! ) to keep it from tipping over and someone getting hurt. If you use the front end loader or backhoe to raise the tractor block it up for safety no matter what. Be safe be healthy so you can have fun not suffer with injuries.
Al

 

[knightgang]

input, however I have to ask if you have ever worked with the tractor tires and a TR218 valve stem?

To get these tractor tires on, once you start the bead back on the tire you have to drop it down to about the center of the rim to have the leeway to work the bead around. With TR218 stems. The base of the stem is threaded so that a threaded keeper ring will go on and keep the stem from falling through. This keeper ring is the reason that you need to work toward the stem, not away.

In my case, the pinched tube was a portion of the tube working its own way between the bead and the tire while it was being inflated and the tube would expand into the gap. This was corrected when a split a bad tube on the outer diameter and wrapped it around the good tube to give it two layers at the tire/rim meeting point and it worked.

This tire still has air in it and not lost a lb since it was last inflated.

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[tiredguy]

Yes I've worked on plenty of TR218A valves as that's what almost all larger
rear tractor tires have on them. My explanation works on all valve stems on
all tubes going inside a tire. 99% of the time a tube is pinched is cause by the
person putting it on, either gets the tire in and pinches the tube with it at the
rim or gets the tube caught between the rim and the tire.

Biggest thing is being careful and not trying to rush the job to fast because
that's when you get screwed up. I'd much rather take a few extra minutes
doing it right the first time than having to break it down and do it over as
you well know it's a pita and expensive too.
Al

 

[neorange]

Man, if not one thing it is another. First got my tractor, we picked up a piece of wire and damaged the tube. Me know knowing it was a tube destroyed it tryingt o repair the tire. So, get another tube, install it and all was well for several months, until the tire found barbed wire. Another puncher. Okay, I will patch the tube and I did. However, put the tire back together and it went flat again the next week.

Took it down again and found that the bead was pinched. So I patched that spot as well. Longer story short, I have put in new tube and already have repaired two pinch spots in it and I can;t seem to get the tire to hold air linger than a week.

I have checked the wheel and everything seems smooth, nothing sharp of snaggy that would seem to hang and damage the tube. I have run my hand along he bead of the tire and I can't find any obvious cause of the continued pinching.

I have used tons of liquid soap along the bead of the wheel and tire during inflation to give a smooth surface and I have also used liberal amounts of grease hoping that things will not pinch. Nothing so far has worked (although grease was on the last attempt and I have not yet broken it down to see exactly why it went flat the last time).

I have another good tube and I just might in stall it this week, but I need a god, full proof method to assembly and inflation that will not pinch the tube. I have thought about splitting one of the old tubes to wrap around the new tube inside the tire so that maybe it will prevent the tube from being pinched even if it gets pinched itself.

Any other ideas or suggestions? Breaking this tire down is getting old.

Sometimes the bead bundle can come undone in lawn and garden tires. meaning that the bead wires are a continuous circle of wire with a start and end, on occasion if you continue to have a hole in the bead toe angle area where the tube is at, when the tire is inflated the end of the bead wire will slightly stick out and just put a small hole in your tube. It is rare but when all fails most likely that could be your problem, when you pull the tube out and if its always in the same spot you will know that is the problem, and you would want to replace the tire. The only other option is during installation your spoon iron as your prying the bead over its sliding down to far and ever so slightly touching the tube and pinching it.