B8200 homemade FEL questions

[frdf250]

I bought this a few months ago from a guy in the area. I didn't realize until I got it home and started tinkering that it was a custom job. This was my first Kubota or tractor for that matter so I didn't know what to look for when I was buying it. It looks like someone made a few mounts, built a channel for the FEL to slide onto and made it work. I bought a plow to mount to the bucket for the snow.(whole reason for getting the tractor) Thats when I realized the brackets were hacked, poorly welded, and the entire FEL unit was held on with (4) of the OEM metric bolts that mount to the frame and (2) 1/4-20's that held it to the front.

To modify it and make it safer/stronger I did the following -

Back - I built bigger brackets and tacked two nuts on the frame with newly tapped 9/16 holes which gives me (5) - 9/16" Grade 8 bolts on each side of the back on to hold it on to the frame.

Front - Welded tube steel to the front of the channel and welded a plate to connect that to the frame with (2) 1/2" grade 8 bolts on each side.

My Concerns - Should i weld a plate to go over the top of the hood/infront of the grill that helps keep the channels and the fel from wanting to push out? I dont want it to bend over time or if i pick something heavy up have it push outwards.

Old Setup/Channel

New Bracket with (5) 9/16 Bolts

New Front Bracket and Welded Channel

Front View of FEL getting Slid Off

FEL On

 

[Tooljunkie]

I think you have done a fine job beefing it up. My only question is the center section of the front bracket where it mounts to frame. Bracket looks heavy enough, how well is it mounted at frame and is frame heavy enough?

 

[Tooljunkie]

Looked closer, its a tank. You would need to be in a real destructive mood to hurt that. Like ramming cement walls. Dig on!

 

[frdf250]

I think you have done a fine job beefing it up. My only question is the center section of the front bracket where it mounts to frame. Bracket looks heavy enough, how well is it mounted at frame and is frame heavy enough?

Thanks, it was a ton of work. On the front you have the (2) bolts connecting it on each side to the actual frame. Then the 3/8" plate of steel connecting both sides together and then also to the frame with the (6) 7/16" bolts. I am worried about the frame. I was trying to figure out how to strictly have down force instead of down and out.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Let me see if I can explain in simple words whats going to happen when you load that loader too heavy... Naw a picture would be better.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Kubota's weak point is the clutch housing as the frame does not extend past that point.
Most, 99.99% of loaders on a Kubota will be attached at the bell housing and there will be supports to the front and support to the rear axle dividing the weight across the entire tractor and stiffening it.
That design has 90% of the weight sitting directly over the front axle, and no weight transferred to the rear.

Look very closely at the clutch housing, and transmission for any stress cracks, broken bolts, or any other damage.

Have you tried to pick anything up?
Kubota's are extremely rear light and now you have a seesaw!

I would hate for you to find out the hard way why the design that you have is an extremely bad design!

I'm not knocking you reinforcing it, but it's not doing anything to really to make it work better on the tractor!

 

[D2Cat]

Is that a modified Kubota loader or home made? Is/was there a number on the loader arms?

The loaders for the B8200 had a bar going across the loader towers at the very top. They were actually two bars that became the brackets that went into the side of the bucket to stabilize the loader when unattached to tractor. The factory loader had a 1/2" dia pin sticking up on each loader tower. The brackets had a hole and set on the pins. They kept the loader towers stable, and was the bucket stabilizer.

You're frame looks heavy, but I would highly suggest welding an axle bar on each side of the tractor. They need to be welded to your fabed (painted gray) iron located down under where your hood latch is and go to the rear axle. Have a plate with holes so they can be bolted at the rear with a couple of bolts. I've used 1 1/2" square heavy wall tubing, but I think flat stock is usually used, 1/2" x 3", something that won't twist.

Don't push hard with the subframe you have without the bars going to the back or the picture North Idaho Wolfman posted could be your demise.

 

[torch]

As the others have said. Something like so:

 

[frdf250]

So I just need to tie it into the rear? Should I go to the rear or to the 3pt hitch?
Can someone post a picture of their stock setup so I can copy it. I'll go get steel in the fusion tonight lol!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I can get you pictures in the morning of mine.

But it looks like the attachment bolts in red would be a great place to tie into.
My axle bars are 2" x 1/2 steel, on that a 1 1/2" C channel should help tremendously, and tie the 2 bars together somewhere upfront to cut down on side flex of the bars.

 

[frdf250]

I can get you pictures in the morning of mine.

But it looks like the attachment bolts in red would be a great place to tie into.
My axle bars are 2" x 1/2 steel, on that a 1 1/2" C channel should help tremendously, and tie the 2 bars together somewhere upfront to cut down on side flex of the bars.

Could I also tie into the mid section right below the back of the step? I circled it in a few pictures. Let me try to understand this better, I am not trying to counteract the torsion from the loader on the big grey beefed up brackets. I am simply trying to help the tractor not split apart when the front has something heavy on it and lifts the back up? Seeing a stock one would help if you could when you get a chance.

 

[torch]

You are trying to reinforce the joint outlined in green (below), so you need to tie in behind it. Don't go to the 3ph, but if you meant the drawbar that would probably be OK. I think those are the bolts Wolfman circled. Most Kubota subframes seem to go to the axle, so I would also consider the bolts circled in red:

 

[Lil Foot]

This is the B219 FEL subframe for a B7100. Side plates are 1/2" x 4" if I remember correctly; also note the "X" bracing,

 

[frdf250]

This is the B219 FEL subframe for a B7100. Side plates are 1/2" x 4" if I remember correctly; also note the "X" bracing,

Thats perfect, im sure ill need to make those bolts longer?

 

[D2Cat]

When working on a loader with metric bolts, Fastenal becomes a frequent stop!

 

[frdf250]

I worked at Fastenal for 5 years. That place is unreal for finding anything you need. I loved it!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You are trying to reinforce the joint outlined in green (below), so you need to tie in behind it. Don't go to the 3ph, but if you meant the drawbar that would probably be OK. I think those are the bolts Wolfman circled. Most Kubota subframes seem to go to the axle, so I would also consider the bolts circled in red:

Sorry need to correct you slightly.
The bolts that you point out in red are the brake cover bolts, not a good choice for the bars, you meant lower and farther back which is the axle housing bolt holes, same ones you used on yours.

And the joint you pointed out is not the week one, that joint is the clutch housing (AKA transmission) to rear end joint, the weak one is farther forward in front of the pedals, it's the bell housing to clutch housing joint.

 

[frdf250]

Sorry need to correct you slightly.
The bolts that you point out in red are the brake cover bolts, not a good choice for the bars, you meant lower and farther back which is the axle housing bolt holes, same ones you used on yours.

And the joint you pointed out is not the week one, that joint is the clutch housing (AKA transmission) to rear end joint, the weak one is farther forward in front of the pedals, it's the bell housing to clutch housing joint.

I got some steel today and plan to fab tonight. Anyone have any luck with pictures of their sub frame?

 

[torch]

Sorry need to correct you slightly.
The bolts that you point out in red are the brake cover bolts, not a good choice for the bars, you meant lower and farther back which is the axle housing bolt holes, same ones you used on yours.

Looking at the parts diagram for the B8200 on Kubota's website, I see what you mean. The brake cover is a separate cover in front of the axle. In the picture it looked to me like one casting.

And the joint you pointed out is not the week one, that joint is the clutch housing (AKA transmission) to rear end joint, the weak one is farther forward in front of the pedals, it's the bell housing to clutch housing joint.

I thought the idea was to protect all 3 (differential to transmission, transmission to clutch, and clutch to engine) joints by providing a continuous reinforcement from the front bumper to the rear axle? Or is the B8200 different from the B7100 in that regard?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I thought the idea was to protect all 3 (differential to transmission, transmission to clutch, and clutch to engine) joints by providing a continuous reinforcement from the front bumper to the rear axle? Or is the B8200 different from the B7100 in that regard?

Nope both model tractors, if not most models over all, the weak point is the clutch housing, but of course it does help all of them.
The one other real advantage is it transfers the weight to the rear end as you lift.