B7100-D 3 Point Hitch Sway Bar Adjustment with Backhoe ???

[Dan_R_42]

Hi Guys, I need your input. I need to know how to properly adjust the turnbuckle sway bars on my 3 point hitch for use with

my backhoe application. The B7100-D has a ARPS 70 Backhoe on it. It is a very heavy, beefy, unit that uses a rigid 3 point mounting system. The current adjustment is very sloppy and does not seem correct.

Does anyone else have a similar setup that has had to adjust them?

Thanks, Dan

 

[Dan_R_42]

Guys, I'm sorry about the photos splitting my text. I do not know what happened. I added the two photos after all the text was posted, but somehow they seem to split the text up.

Sorry, Dan

 

[torch]

Ok, first of all

DO NOT INSTALL THAT BACKHOE UNTIL/UNLESS YOU HAVE INSTALLED THE OPTIONAL HEAVY DUTY TOP LINK BRACKET (70050-93214). (You also need some sort of sub-frame, such as the one that should come with a front-end loader. It appears you have the loader, I assume it came with a subframe.)

Even then, that backhoe may be too big and heavy. How much does it weigh? How long is the reach? Kubota listed the B4672 for that tractor. It weighs 851lbs with a 6' digging depth and connects the top link to the tractor with TWO pins, not just one. The slightly larger B4690 was not approved for use on the B7100 and it weighs 912 lbs with a 7-1/2" digging depth.

Now on to your question:
"Rigid" is a bit of a misnomer when used in the same sentence as "3 point hitch". Nothing is solidly bolted to the frame, there is slop in all the pins and joints. I suspect "solid" simply means the top link is fixed rigidly to the backhoe assembly itself, but still connects to the tractor with a pin or two. With over 800 lbs hanging on the back of the tractor, it is bound to shift around some. Do not attempt to raise the 3ph with the backhoe installed. Tighten up the links as much as possible and learn to live with it.

Alternatively, buy a set of adjustable stabilizer links from Hodge and appreciate the convenience. It will still move around a bit though.

 

[Dan_R_42]

Ok, first of all

DO NOT INSTALL THAT BACKHOE UNTIL/UNLESS YOU HAVE INSTALLED THE OPTIONAL HEAVY DUTY TOP LINK BRACKET (70050-93214). (You also need some sort of sub-frame, such as the one that should come with a front-end loader. It appears you have the loader, I assume it came with a subframe.)

Even then, that backhoe may be too big and heavy. How much does it weigh? How long is the reach? Kubota listed the B4672 for that tractor. It weighs 851lbs with a 6' digging depth and connects the top link to the tractor with TWO pins, not just one. The slightly larger B4690 was not approved for use on the B7100 and it weighs 912 lbs with a 7-1/2" digging depth.

Now on to your question:
"Rigid" is a bit of a misnomer when used in the same sentence as "3 point hitch". Nothing is solidly bolted to the frame, there is slop in all the pins and joints. I suspect "solid" simply means the top link is fixed rigidly to the backhoe assembly itself, but still connects to the tractor with a pin or two. With over 800 lbs hanging on the back of the tractor, it is bound to shift around some. Do not attempt to raise the 3ph with the backhoe installed. Tighten up the links as much as possible and learn to live with it.

Alternatively, buy a set of adjustable stabilizer links from Hodge and appreciate the convenience. It will still move around a bit though.

Ok, I hear you. Please forgive me for not posting that this is not a new install. Sorry I was not providing more details. The B7100-D was built in 1980. I purchased it in 1985. In 1986 I purchased this backhoe and had it installed by a local Kubota Dealer. At that time the only choices of backhoes for the B7100 available were a Woods backhoe or this ARPS 70 backhoe. The Woods had chain setup for the backhoe side to side pivot, the ARPS had 2 pistons for pivot. So I chose the ARPS.

The reason for my question now is due to a currect issue I just noticed after some 36 years of use. While doing the annual after snow season service, I noticed that the sway bars one is very loose the other is tight. The backhoe seems to be moving from side to side somewhat. Should the 3 point catagory 1 pins on the bars have some spacers or shims to take up some of the slack and movement or do the anti sway adjustments need to be snugged up a bit. Yes the loader is a Kubota B219 with a sub-frame. Not with the backhoe which has I believe a 6Ft 6In reach for 2 foot bottom. The 3 point hitch is in the lowest position and there is no way to raise it. The lift handle is locked in the lowest position so it can not be accidently moved. Back in 1986 there was no such thing as a SubFrame. Only 3 point attachment from what I was told.

Sorry for any confusion. I appreciate any and all help. I hope the additional info helps to clear up my current issue.



Sincerely, Dan

 

[hodge]

Ok, first of all

DO NOT INSTALL THAT BACKHOE UNTIL/UNLESS YOU HAVE INSTALLED THE OPTIONAL HEAVY DUTY TOP LINK BRACKET (70050-93214). (You also need some sort of sub-frame, such as the one that should come with a front-end loader. It appears you have the loader, I assume it came with a subframe.)

Even then, that backhoe may be too big and heavy. How much does it weigh? How long is the reach? Kubota listed the B4672 for that tractor. It weighs 851lbs with a 6' digging depth and connects the top link to the tractor with TWO pins, not just one. The slightly larger B4690 was not approved for use on the B7100 and it weighs 912 lbs with a 7-1/2" digging depth.

Now on to your question:
"Rigid" is a bit of a misnomer when used in the same sentence as "3 point hitch". Nothing is solidly bolted to the frame, there is slop in all the pins and joints. I suspect "solid" simply means the top link is fixed rigidly to the backhoe assembly itself, but still connects to the tractor with a pin or two. With over 800 lbs hanging on the back of the tractor, it is bound to shift around some. Do not attempt to raise the 3ph with the backhoe installed. Tighten up the links as much as possible and learn to live with it.

Alternatively, buy a set of adjustable stabilizer links from Hodge and appreciate the convenience. It will still move around a bit though.

I can build them, but I DO NOT WARRANTY them when used with a 3 point hitch mounted backhoe. There is too much side force imposed through usage.

 

[Dan_R_42]

Torch, Thank you so much, for the info on the toplink bracket. I did check it out. Very interesting. When we got the tractor back from the Kubota dealer back in 1986 (who is no longer in business since the early 1990's) we noticed that the top link was a very weak point in the setup.

We immediately removed it and welded gussets to the sides of the bracket to beef it up significantly. So far it has held up well for the last 36 years, so far.

I appreciate your tip on that bracket. That is the one point that we check regularly just to insure it is holding up well. That is a key point.

Dan

 

[Lil Foot]

Can't help with the backhoe question, mine is a subframe mount, not a 3pt mount.

But I think I can help with the photos splitting the text.
When you upload the photos, they go immediately after the cursor, wherever that may be.
If you are like me, after typing, I proof read what I just typed, and then make corrections or deletions as necessary. This usually leaves the cursor somewhere in the middle of the typing.
Then when you upload photos, that is where they go.
If you always remember to put the cursor after the end of the typing, no problem.
If you forgot and have already screwed it up, the only recourse is to go into edit, delete the photos. put the cursor after the end of the text, and reload the photos.
Or live with the split text, no biggie, really.

 

[Lil Foot]

Nice looking B7100.

 

[torch]

The reason for my question now is due to a currect issue I just noticed after some 36 years of use. While doing the annual after snow season service, I noticed that the sway bars one is very loose the other is tight. The backhoe seems to be moving from side to side somewhat. Should the 3 point catagory 1 pins on the bars have some spacers or shims to take up some of the slack and movement or do the anti sway adjustments need to be snugged up a bit.

Ok, I get it now. You have long experience with this professionally installed set up and are now noticing something different is going on. Did you remove and reinstall it or leave it on for the snow season? If one is suddenly loose, I wonder if it was subjected to excessive strain and stretched?

 

[torch]

I can build them, but I DO NOT WARRANTY them when used with a 3 point hitch mounted backhoe. There is too much side force imposed through usage.

Oh.

Well I guess I voided the warranty then. Bought my backhoe 2 seasons ago and used your stabilizers each year. Never thought twice about it.

You'll be happy to know they have stood the test of time -- so far? ;-)

 

[torch]

I appreciate your tip on that bracket. That is the one point that we check regularly just to insure it is holding up well. That is a key point.

Your response is so much like my response to Hodge that it's scary. <lol>

The thing with the HD bracket is not only is the material heavier, it has more attachment points to the expensive casting. I took lots of pictures when I made mine. Documented in this thread.

 

[Dan_R_42]

Lil Foot, Thank you so much. That may have been my issue as I always find something that needs correction or to be added. Now that I know the process I will be more careful. Also thank you for the complement. I have enjoyed having this rig for the last 37 years. My needs have changed and I now need to replace the B7100-D with something that can Quick Attach attachments and implements. I'm looking at the B2601 and the LX2610. If I can get one these units the B7100 will be for sale. There is still a lot of life left in this unit. I'm hoping to find it a good home.


Torch, I guess we think a lot alike. LOL... No, this backhoe has never been removed from the tractor. In addition to loader and backhoe work around the yard I plow snow with it. The extra weight has kept me from getting hung up. I will re-inspect the sway bar to see if it has been stretched.

There is so much space (play) in the 3 point hitch Category 1 pins I wonder if I should place a few spacer shims on each side to help take up some of that play. Maybe place a couple grade 8 washers on the outside of the pins on each side? The washers would rest against the lynch pins. That would lessen the amount of travel on the pins. Any thoughts on this?

 

[torch]

There is so much space (play) in the 3 point hitch Category 1 pins I wonder if I should place a few spacer shims on each side to help take up some of that play. Maybe place a couple grade 8 washers on the outside of the pins on each side? The washers would rest against the lynch pins. That would lessen the amount of travel on the pins. Any thoughts on this?

I don't think the washers can hurt anything.

If the turnbuckle link(s) stretched, then I would replace it.

 

[Russell King]

You may want to see if the pins are worn also and allowing more movement

 

[Dan_R_42]

Thanks Russell, Yeah they seem fine. Minimal wear on the pins visible. They have a nice snug fit but allow movement along the length of the pin. Also sway bars, turnbuckles and connecting points do not appear stretched or deformed in any way. I'm going to try to find some 1" ID HD washers to use as shims to take up some of the play between the lower Link arms and the lynch pin.