B7100/B6100 tire and rim exchange.

[southernpiper1]

Hi All, I feel like the problem child in class. Okay, I have a b 6100, engine has problems. Otherwise nice tractor. It has Ag tires on it, new!
I've found a B7100 hst with great hours. But...it has turf tires. I'm going to use this little tractor to get firewood to my house from my woods and I live in Kentucky. That means hills. Unless someone tells me turf tires are great for up and down hills, I'm going to want to exchange the tires.
Will I be able to find rims with 4 lugs for the 7100? Is the front and rear ratio the same for a gear 6100 to a HST 7100? Are there adapter plates for the front rims 4 to 6 lug? This little 7100 looks great with minimal hours and a fair price. I don't want to pass it up. How do I get around this? Help is appreciated!

 

[85Hokie]

IF that's REALLY all you want to do......move firewood
save your headache ................
get some chains on those turfs - and you'll have brand new tires
You'll spend less and have plenty of grip

 

[torch]

It is surprising how much traction the turf tires have. Yes, the tread is far less aggressive than the ag tires, but the contact patch is so much bigger on the turfs.

 

[southernpiper1]

It is surprising how much traction the turf tires have. Yes, the tread is far less aggressive than the ag tires, but the contact patch is so much bigger on the turfs.

I have a line on chains. All I have to do is drive from Kentucky to Virginia! Kidding. My sister lives there and I'm going for Thanksgiving.
My problem is not going but stopping. With the quad, it's like a controlled crash each time. The wood certainly runs the show. Can I put chains on the front tires? Anybody ever do that? On cars 70 percent of the braking is on the front tires. And I harvest the wood mostly in winter.
Thanks everyone for your answers.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

B7100's have differnt size tires than the B6100's, so a straight swap is out anyways.
You'll have to look at your setup, but normally on these there is not enough room for chains on the front with turfs.

 

[southernpiper1]

B7100's have differnt size tires than the B6100's, so a straight swap is out anyways.
You'll have to look at your setup, but normally on these there is not enough room for chains on the front with turfs.

Well, poop... That's not good. But thank you for the help.

 

[85Hokie]

Get cha those chains - use the 4x4 drive up and down the hills - use the 4wd for grip going up and the braking of the 4wd going down - that HST is great for braking due to all wheels have "brakes" in 4wd - and the chains will work well along with the differential lock when needed.

IF pulling a small wagon of wood - DO NOT use the 3 point to attach the trailer - get a draw bar instead.
A wagon full of wood going uphill with a 3 point will end in disaster!

 

[southernpiper1]

Get cha those chains - use the 4x4 drive up and down the hills - use the 4wd for grip going up and the braking of the 4wd going down - that HST is great for braking due to all wheels have "brakes" in 4wd - and the chains will work well along with the differential lock when needed.

IF pulling a small wagon of wood - DO NOT use the 3 point to attach the trailer - get a draw bar instead.
A wagon full of wood going uphill with a 3 point will end in disaster!

 

[southernpiper1]

That is good advice because I already bought a three point hitch for the trailer. I have a ford 1520 sao I'm familiar with the 4 wheel drive braking. Also not to carry a heavy load in the bucket in 2 wheel drive. I'm glad I thought to dump the bucket.
I was looking for ag front tires. Specs call for 20.5x8-10. Ag tires seem to only come in 20x8-10. My understanding is you want to lead the front which I assumed they ment you wanted a bigger tire on the front. Not a smaller tire. Is that right? And thanks again. I'll work out a draw bar. Should I keep the ball near the axle?

 

[southernpiper1]

That is good advice because I already bought a three point hitch for the trailer. I have a ford 1520 sao I'm familiar with the 4 wheel drive braking. Also not to carry a heavy load in the bucket in 2 wheel drive. I'm glad I thought to dump the bucket.
I was looking for ag front tires. Specs call for 20.5x8-10. Ag tires seem to only come in 20x8-10. My understanding is you want to lead the front which I assumed they ment you wanted a bigger tire on the front. Not a smaller tire. Is that right? And thanks again. I'll work out a draw bar. Should I keep the ball near the axle?

Actually I built a wood carrier which means it's capable of carrying too much wood probably.

 

[SDT]

Well, poop... That's not good. But thank you for the help.

I use F and R tire chains on my B1750HST each winter.

B1750 has both front turf tires and Bi-Speed turn. No clearance issues.

SDT

 

[southernpiper1]

I use F and R tire chains on my B1750HST each winter.

B1750 has both front turf tires and Bi-Speed turn. No clearance issues.

SDT

Not sure what bi-speed turn is. Chains have to be cheaper than ag tires. I'll measure and see if I can get away with that.

 

[85Hokie]

That is good advice because I already bought a three point hitch for the trailer. I have a ford 1520 sao I'm familiar with the 4 wheel drive braking. Also not to carry a heavy load in the bucket in 2 wheel drive. I'm glad I thought to dump the bucket.
I was looking for ag front tires. Specs call for 20.5x8-10. Ag tires seem to only come in 20x8-10. My understanding is you want to lead the front which I assumed they ment you wanted a bigger tire on the front. Not a smaller tire. Is that right? And thanks again. I'll work out a draw bar. Should I keep the ball near the axle?

Typically when the engineers do the math on ratios ....... the 1 to 1 ratio is more tilted towards the front, creating the lead effect. The front end pulls a little more and slips a little more.

IF you change the rolling circumference and increase those ratios - bad things will happen, so you dont want a bigger or smaller tire up front - you want a tire that has the same RC as the old ones.

OR you have to change the front and the rear tires to the original ratio specs.

AS for the draw bar - that should be below the centerline of the axle, thus the pull is always lower than the center of gravity of the tractor itself.

 

[southernpiper1]

Typically when the engineers do the math on ratios ....... the 1 to 1 ratio is more tilted towards the front, creating the lead effect. The front end pulls a little more and slips a little more.

IF you change the rolling circumference and increase those ratios - bad things will happen, so you dont want a bigger or smaller tire up front - you want a tire that has the same RC as the old ones.

OR you have to change the front and the rear tires to the original ratio specs.

AS for the draw bar - that should be below the centerline of the axle, thus the pull is always lower than the center of gravity of the tractor itself.

I'll have to figure what the original ratio is but I may be able to use chains on the front.
As far as the draw bar goes, I understand. Thinking about the 3 point hitch, I could see where the link would be sharing the pull above the axle. Might be bad for when it's being pushed downhill also which is really my concern. All of this is to get things to slow down and get a ROPS around me. That wasn't happening on a quad. I need to find a seat belt. The b7100 didn't come with one. It has the ROPS but I guess they took the seat belt off. I need to widen the stance as much as possible also. Keep me from needing the ROPS! Do the turf tires have intertubes? I don't think putting calcium in a tubeless tire is a good idea. That is one of the most corrosive things I've run into. Rusted every tool I used on the ford. Ate the center hub/dish also. And the bolts, and the rim. Geez.

 

[SDT]

I'll have to figure what the original ratio is but I may be able to use chains on the front.
As far as the draw bar goes, I understand. Thinking about the 3 point hitch, I could see where the link would be sharing the pull above the axle. Might be bad for when it's being pushed downhill also which is really my concern. All of this is to get things to slow down and get a ROPS around me. That wasn't happening on a quad. I need to find a seat belt. The b7100 didn't come with one. It has the ROPS but I guess they took the seat belt off. I need to widen the stance as much as possible also. Keep me from needing the ROPS! Do the turf tires have intertubes? I don't think putting calcium in a tubeless tire is a good idea. That is one of the most corrosive things I've run into. Rusted every tool I used on the ford. Ate the center hub/dish also. And the bolts, and the rim. Geez.

DO NOT put CaCl in tubeless tires.

OEM equipment does not include tire tubes but such are sometimes added.

After about 10 years, the front tubeless tires on my B1750 would no longer hold air reliably so I added tubes. Don't believe I've added air since.

No such issues with the rear Z-Bar tires.

SDT

 

[southernpiper1]

Why do they use calcium? There's got to be something that's not so corrosive. Ethylene glycol, propylene glycol?. I mean they make food grade propylene glycol.

 

[85Hokie]

Why do they use calcium? There's got to be something that's not so corrosive. Ethylene glycol, propylene glycol?. I mean they make food grade propylene glycol.

CaCl2 has been used for ever as ballast - you can make the salt in different ratios to get close to 13-14 lbs per gallon of ballast!

And o boy will it rust a steel rim out! But it will take a good while to do it.

I have a B7100 that I filled the rears with windshield washer fluid..... I cannot remember the gallons off the top of my head - but it came out to about 7.5 / 8 lbs per gallon and it too 15 or so gallons.

I took the tire off a month ago and forgot how heavy that tire got to be!!!!

If you can afford the beat juice aka RIM GUARD - go for that! Weight of salt, never corrosive and if leaked will not hurt anything.

I will tell you this - even on a small tire, it will make a huge difference in the feel of the machine, especially on hillsides.

 

[SDT]

Why do they use calcium? There's got to be something that's not so corrosive. Ethylene glycol, propylene glycol?. I mean they make food grade propylene glycol.

CaCl/H2O has been used as liquid ballast pretty much since rubber tires were pioneered for use on AG tractors by Allis Chalmers in the 1930s.

It was used because it was inexpensive and the solution was both considerably heavier that H2O alone and not subject to freezing at temperatures to which farm tractors were commonly exposed. In the era, all tires had tubes and most rear tractor rims were galvanized.

These days, Rim Gard is a better, though more expensive option.

SDT

 

[southernpiper1]

CaCl2 has been used for ever as ballast - you can make the salt in different ratios to get close to 13-14 lbs per gallon of ballast!

And o boy will it rust a steel rim out! But it will take a good while to do it.

I have a B7100 that I filled the rears with windshield washer fluid..... I cannot remember the gallons off the top of my head - but it came out to about 7.5 / 8 lbs per gallon and it too 15 or so gallons.

I took the tire off a month ago and forgot how heavy that tire got to be!!!!

If you can afford the beat juice aka RIM GUARD - go for that! Weight of salt, never corrosive and if leaked will not hurt anything.

I will tell you this - even on a small tire, it will make a huge difference in the feel of the machine, especially on hillsides.

I'm spending a fair amount of money trying to be safe. Getting too old to be bouncing around under an upside-down tractor. Even a small one. The ford has 12.5-24s. When they came off I was lucky to get out of the way. They got changed where they fell.
Again, you all have been great! Unfortunately, I'll be back with more questions I'm sure.

 

[torch]

I have a B7100 that I filled the rears with windshield washer fluid..... I cannot remember the gallons off the top of my head - but it came out to about 7.5 / 8 lbs per gallon and it too 15 or so gallons.

On my B7100 with turf tires, 40 litres of WWF gave me a 50% fill in all 4.