Auxiliary fuse block for L3800 L3200

J

JasonW

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Jan 29, 2015
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Has anyone installed an auxiliary fuse block on a L3800/L3200?
I'm looking to add extra lighting among other things. I already know about the "work light" slot in the factory fuse block, so don't mention that. I'm mainly looking for a good location to mount one, there doesn't look like a lot of room under the dash but I haven't taken body panels off yet. Looking to install a 6-slot fuse block.
 
85Hokie

85Hokie

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JasonW said:
Has anyone installed an auxiliary fuse block on a L3800/L3200?
I'm looking to add extra lighting among other things. I already know about the "work light" slot in the factory fuse block, so don't mention that. I'm mainly looking for a good location to mount one, there doesn't look like a lot of room under the dash but I haven't taken body panels off yet. Looking to install a 6-slot fuse block.
Click to expand...
You can mount the new "fuse block" almost anywhere, just run a good hunking cable to the battery for hot and ground. Then I would still use a relay for you lights or separate each set of lights per breaker. Fuse panel and wire will not cost you 20 bucks - and if anything goes amiss - it is a separate circuit altogether!:) Any place near the "firewall" or other firm place?
 
Tooljunkie

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Yup, adding a ignition controlled relay to feed fusebox would be my preference. A main/master fuse to supply junction box would be safer as well.
 
North Idaho Wolfman

North Idaho Wolfman

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If you are going to pull enough power to ever use a 6 place fuse block your going to need to up the alternator to keep up. ;)
 
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JasonW

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85Hokie said:
You can mount the new "fuse block" almost anywhere, just run a good hunking cable to the battery for hot and ground. Then I would still use a relay for you lights or separate each set of lights per breaker. Fuse panel and wire will not cost you 20 bucks - and if anything goes amiss - it is a separate circuit altogether!:) Any place near the "firewall" or other firm place?
Click to expand...
Yeah this is definitely not my first wiring job, just looking to see if anyone has went through this before on this particular model tractor. There is very little room up near the firewall.
 
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JasonW

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Tooljunkie said:
Yup, adding a ignition controlled relay to feed fusebox would be my preference. A main/master fuse to supply junction box would be safer as well.
Click to expand...
Definitely using a master fuse for the power supply, I may do a ignition control relay depending what I add.
 
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JasonW

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North Idaho Wolfman said:
If you are going to pull enough power to ever use a 6 place fuse block your going to need to up the alternator to keep up. ;)
Click to expand...
Alternator is rated for 45A so I should be good there. I wouldn't be using everything at one time either. I could wire everything in one or two circuits but just personal preference I guess to have everything separate, plus I like the ability to add things later in time. Thanks for the responses
 
85Hokie

85Hokie

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this is the key to the whole story "

"I wouldn't be using everything at one time either"

much like a breaker box at a home 200 amp service, all the breakers add WAY above 200 amps, but rarely if ever is ONE breaker maxed out, much less several of them. Having 6 separate fuses say that you can have MULTIPLE circuits and use them when needed and none of them are pulling too many amps per circuit. Hell, you might get the 6 circuit in the tight spot and then only use two of the fuses, saving the other 4 for something later!:D:)
 
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GaltsGulch

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Got to looking at the dash of my L3800 when I was installing the winch and looking for a key switched power line for the switches and you are correct there is not a lot of room up there. I didn't feel like cutting into any of the looms so I just ran a line to the battery. I have 3 LED lights I am planning to add to the ROPS. There is an additional wire in the back loom for "work lights" but I to would like an additional fuse block. If you get to it soon post up and let us know where you ended up putting the fuse block.
 
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yamatitan

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You can get fuse boxes with the ignition relay built in already. The one I have on my truck has 6 spots controlled by the relay and 6 with direct power.
 
85Hokie

85Hokie

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seanbarr

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As a 20+ year veteran of upfitting emergency vehicles from ATV's upwards to LAFD's fleet of 8 behemoths 18 wheeler search & rescue rigs, I can add my 12v expertise safely. (It's what I do for a living & pays for a 6K sq ft house on 10 treed acres, 35hp tractor in a 36 x 48 shop with some man tools)

Before I could suggest anything, I'd like to know precisely what you'd need to supply power to. It's entirely possible to keep it simple with just two in-line fuse holders but nothing wrong with wanting a fuse block either. 3 would be well sufficient. It's not uncommon to combine several circuits on one fuse. Too often, people over-engineer their designs by having only one circuit for each fuse.

Use the K.I.S.S. method. Let me know what you've got planned.


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skeets

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Me, being the frugal sumbeauch that I am ......
LMFAO<<<<<<< sorry>>>>>>still chuckling,,, comon you cheap just like me,,,LLO:D
 
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RedTailHawk

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seanbarr said:
Before I could suggest anything, I'd like to know precisely what you'd need to supply power to. It's entirely possible to keep it simple with just two in-line fuse holders but nothing wrong with wanting a fuse block either. 3 would be well sufficient. It's not uncommon to combine several circuits on one fuse. Too often, people over-engineer their designs by having only one circuit for each fuse.

Use the K.I.S.S. method. Let me know what you've got planned.
Click to expand...
For me, I'm wiring in 4 LED cube lights, and a combo Voltmeter-USB port-Power socket (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WLFU7QY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00)

My main interest in a separate fuse block is that I don't see how wiring into the rear accessory plug on Kubota (which appears to be 20 gauge wiring) can support 14 gauge wiring for 4 different lights. (The lights will be paired (2 front facing, 2 rear facing) on harnesses for each pair. So I was thinking about adding the fuse block in the rear and then run one line to the battery/ignition.
Is that overkill? Otherwise, any suggestions on how to connect 4 lights to this one rear accessory port? (little green plug in attached picture)

IMG_0487.jpg
 
85Hokie

85Hokie

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RedTailHawk said:
It doesn't specify the amps on the product page (http://www.ebay.com/itm/301636592258?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT), but each light is 18W, and operating 9-32V. So I believe the amp draw is anywhere from .5 - 2 amps. Does that sound correct?

Actually, I'm not sure if that is per light or for a set of 2.
Click to expand...
18w should be for EACH - amp draw will be something like 1.28 to 1.5, that is if the 18watts is accurate. But it does give the specs @ each LED is 3w - and there is six of them!:)
 
seanbarr

seanbarr

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(head scratching)

You sure that the wires for the lights are 14g? Some wire types can look deceiving. Read on.

Each light can get by literally with 20g but typically the minimum is 18g. As for the plug, it's possibly to hook up the 4 lights to it. Here's why. Typically, the factory rear tractor lamp (some are optional) are 60 watts, which pulls approximately 5 amps. The 4 LEDs pull 6 amps.

I'm willing to wager that you'll find either a 7.5 amp fuse or at best, 10 amps but nothing higher. I also doubt that the wiring is 20g, which is unheard of. There's 6 different types of automotive wiring and likely you have the variety that has thin insulation possibly GXL (thin insulation). The "14g" may be the type that is a thick walled HDT PVC type, which have thick walled insulation. Find the fuse for the plug. If it's 7.5 or bigger, I'd use it. If it's a 10, even better. Then all you'll need to do is install a simple waterproof inline fuse holder for the combo thing.

Of course, you can shoot for the moon but I'm just letting you know of your options you may not have considered.




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