1984 L345DT Refurbishment

[Russell King]

Which of the two Kubota orange colors are you using?

 

[DSDispatch]

Which of the two Kubota orange colors are you using?

Using the "old" Kubota paint. It's the top one on this Messicks color code chart: https://www.messicks.com/Kubota-Paint-Chart

Here you can see all "three" colors. I quote because one of them is patina!

Here it is mounted:

 

[DSDispatch]

There was a whole habitat behind the dash - included a few mud-dobber houses, a mouse condo, and other unidentified mud-balls. Yuck.

As part of removing the extra solenoid and cleaning up the electrical system, I purchased a new key switch.

Out with the old...

In with the new:

I switched the leads one at a time to keep them on the right posts. A 7mm socket was the ticket to easily remove each bolt and I scruffed each contact with 220 grit sand paper to remove any corrosion.

 

[DSDispatch]

The wiring at the fuse box and main 40a fuse were corroded and caked in 41 years of dirt. I still couldn't get the engine to turn over from the driver's seat, so I set to replacing the fuse box and 40a fuse.

Original box

Those fuses look good, but are they really?

Old 40a fuse and replacement:

It's made for marine applications, so should be fine for tractoring

 

[DSDispatch]

Turning the key to the on position yielded some promising lights! A quick flip of the start switch and the engine turned over - good. Now on to other connections and clean-up.

Red Wolf 4-fuse block - Amazon.com: RED WOLF 4 Way Blade Fuse Block Box Holder w/Standard Circuit 10V-32V DC for Automotive Truck Boat Marine RV Van Vehicle Power Distribution Panel Damp-Proof Cover : Automotive

Red Wolf 40A fuse - Amazon.com: RED WOLF 40 AMP Car Circuit Breaker w/Manual Reset Switch Inline Fuse Holder Inverter for Motor Trolling Vehicles Audio Radio Solar System Protection 12V-48V DC with Wire Lugs Copper Washer Screws : Automotive

 

[DSDispatch]

Pulled the rear mud-dobber houses and converted them back to stock reflectors this morning.

Yuck!

Cleaned and ready for paint and new reflectors.

 

[DSDispatch]

Tell me, what goes here by the heel of each foot? Was there an additional mud-guard on some models? There doesn't seem to be anything referenced in the parts diagram, but there are nuts for something.

 

[DSDispatch]

The left fender looks a bit worse than the right. They appear to be 12ga.

Has anyone had luck refurbishing this kind of damage by cutting out a rectangle, welding in a new piece of stock, and using a flap-disk to smooth and paint? That'd be my plan, but thought I'd ask for tips before diving in.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

The left fender looks a bit worse than the right. They appear to be 12ga.

Has anyone had luck refurbishing this kind of damage by cutting out a rectangle, welding in a new piece of stock, and using a flap-disk to smooth and paint? That'd be my plan, but thought I'd ask for tips before diving in.

Just for your consideration,

I was talking to an acquaintance of mine recently, and he said that "a lot” of body shops are switching to a 2-part epoxy instead of welding to prevent warping on sheet metal parts.

Not sure how true it is, but I did watch a video of a guy using epoxy to “splice in” part of a fender on his truck.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Just for you consideration,

I was talking to an acquaintance of mine recently, and he said that "a lot” of body shops are switching to a 2-part epoxy instead of welding to prevent warping on sheet metal parts.

Not sure how true it is, but I did watch a video of a guy using epoxy to “splice in” part of a fender on his truck.

More like "every" body shop. Panel bonding epoxy has been in widespread use for at least a decade now and is an OEM approved process.

Dan

 

[DSDispatch]

Can anyone tell me the correct yellow for these pedals?

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Can anyone tell me the correct yellow for these pedals?

Are you sure that's original? My quick search didn't find a picture of the pedals on an L345, but a picture of an L295 shows them the same blue/gray as the frame. You may want to look harder than I did. If yellow, I'd use Safety Yellow, by no means John Deere yellow, we'll kick you off this board .

EDIT I never get tired of being wrong. More searching found a sales brochure of an L295 with yellow pedals and a picture of an L345 with yellow. So at least some apparently came from the factory yellow. Maybe there was a production change? Maybe an expert like @North Idaho Wolfman can chime in

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Can anyone tell me the correct yellow for these pedals?

Kubota Yellow

Sorry couldn't resist.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Look what the dog dug up

Which Yellow Paint (grey market)

Does anyone know what "yellow" to use to be correct when painting the brake and clutch pedals on a grey market tractor? Do not see any listed in Vic's paint article or the Kubota website (no surprise there).

www.orangetractortalks.com

 

[Russell King]

It is interesting that the yellow color is NOT listed in the chart linked above.

I would use OSHA safety yellow just because it is easy to get.

 

[DSDispatch]

Couple of progress pics:

Spot painting of the left rear:

 

[DSDispatch]

The keen eye will see the pipe insulation covering the hydraulic hoses that form a loop to a block-off plate on top off the accessory hydraulic port. The story I got upon purchase was the previous owner had the loader removed at the time of original delivery and never reattached it, hence the hose loop.

I would like to set this up to have a rear accessory remote, but don't know where to start. The parts diagram shows an original lever and valve for such things. Perhaps I should look for a salvage unit with these parts? I'd like to be able to run a hydraulic top-link or other versatile use...or perhaps the collective wisdom of the forum has other recommendations?

 

[KubotaHawg]

Just came across this thread, man am I envious. Neighbor had a L275 with 1100 hours he had picked up for $3000, it was in beautiful shape. He didn’t know what he had, not a tractor guy. Sold it before I could take it off his hands, only see him every now and then. Still kicking myself on that one.

 

[Russell King]

The keen eye will see the pipe insulation covering the hydraulic hoses that form a loop to a block-off plate on top off the accessory hydraulic port. The story I got upon purchase was the previous owner had the loader removed at the time of original delivery and never reattached it, hence the hose loop.

I would like to set this up to have a rear accessory remote, but don't know where to start. The parts diagram shows an original lever and valve for such things. Perhaps I should look for a salvage unit with these parts? I'd like to be able to run a hydraulic top-link or other versatile use...or perhaps the collective wisdom of the forum has other recommendations?

You will need to decide how many valves you want, probably two minimum and possibly three or more. You will need to figure out how to mount the valve, probably on the ROPS if you have one. I would not pursue an old valve.

Then you will need to get the cylinders to fit your tractor. For these I recommend you get Fit Rite Hydraulics to make them. In fact, that is who I brought the whole system from (valve, mount and cylinders)

Fit Rite Hydraulics - fitritehydraulics.com

Manufacturers of tractor 3 point hitch top and tilt hydraulic kits, hydraulic top links and hydraulic side links.

www.fitritehydraulics.com

Then you will need a few new hoses probably.

 

[DSDispatch]

Just came across this thread, man am I envious. Neighbor had a L275 with 1100 hours he had picked up for $3000, it was in beautiful shape. He didn’t know what he had, not a tractor guy. Sold it before I could take it off his hands, only see him every now and then. Still kicking myself on that one.

Thank you for the kind reply - yes, this project is a ton of fun. I giggle every time I start it.