I'm working on sourcing the ROPS. Can you share any information on the type of valve I'll need? I don't think sourcing hoses will be a problem - I have a lot of oilfield and equipment vendors nearby in ETX as well as my local dealer.
1984 L345DT Refurbishment
- Thread starter DSDispatch
- Start date
Went by my local dealer today to pick up another can of "old" orange. They have a restored 80's vintage tractor in their showroom and I snapped a photo of the yellow pedals.
I've got to say, I don't like the yellow on the throttle lever and foot actuator. Has anyone else seen this on other similar vintage tractors or is this just something they decided to do?
The guys at the parts counter were stumped when I asked them about the "kubota yellow". After talking to the guys in the shop they suggested using safety yellow from tractor supply, but I'm not sure it will be mustard enough. So grateful to have first world problems!
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
See this valve that is something like you would need. You need the power beyond sleeve also. There is a good diagram lower in the post showing the general arrangement for the hydraulic circuit.
Monoblock Hydraulic Directional Control Valve, 2 Spool, 11 GPM
Monoblock Hydraulic Directional Control Valve, 2 Spool, 11 GPM
summit-hydraulics.com
Am trying to remove the left side brake pedal. Both are on the right side.
Specifically, i need help understanding what tool and procedure I should use to remove the pin that goes through the rod.
My .pdf service manual is truncated after the wiring diagram and so doesn't include the section on brake pedal removal.
Any help? Thanks!
Close up of pin.
Specifically, i need help understanding what tool and procedure I should use to remove the pin that goes through the rod.
My .pdf service manual is truncated after the wiring diagram and so doesn't include the section on brake pedal removal.
Any help? Thanks!
Close up of pin.
Looks like a roll or spring pin. Need a hammer and punch just small enough to go in the hole and drive it out. I like to back up the back side with anvil, pipe, etc.Am trying to remove the left side brake pedal. Both are on the right side.
Specifically, i need help understanding what tool and procedure I should use to remove the pin that goes through the rod.
My .pdf service manual is truncated after the wiring diagram and so doesn't include the section on brake pedal removal.
Any help? Thanks!
Close up of pin.
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
I agree that is a roll pin or spring pin as Kubota calls it.
They make tools to push them out and you can probably make one yourself. They also sell sets of punches that are specifically designed to remove roll pins. Search internet for “roll pin removal tool” for examples of the tools.
You should try to get it soaking in your favorite penetrating oil for as long as you can before trying to remove it. They are prone to rusting into the parts and being hard to remove.
You may want to remove that whole pedal assembly that carries the clutch pedal and brake pedals. There are some clamp looking parts on the bottom of the tractor holding it on. It should be pretty easy to get off except for the linkage removal which might be a little tedious.
Good luck with it!
They make tools to push them out and you can probably make one yourself. They also sell sets of punches that are specifically designed to remove roll pins. Search internet for “roll pin removal tool” for examples of the tools.
You should try to get it soaking in your favorite penetrating oil for as long as you can before trying to remove it. They are prone to rusting into the parts and being hard to remove.
You may want to remove that whole pedal assembly that carries the clutch pedal and brake pedals. There are some clamp looking parts on the bottom of the tractor holding it on. It should be pretty easy to get off except for the linkage removal which might be a little tedious.
Good luck with it!
Things are coming along...
Before:
After:
I ended up using the Yellow Implement spray-paint from Tractor Supply. I'm not sure it's "mustard" enough, but I'm happy with the result.
Before:
After:
I ended up using the Yellow Implement spray-paint from Tractor Supply. I'm not sure it's "mustard" enough, but I'm happy with the result.
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The right rear fender required only minor touch-ups for my standard of repair. Isn't perfect, but came out looking good.
This little tool met its maker after attempting to remove the front of the drag-link.
Fortunately, Amazon delivered this handy set a few days later and the link was swiftly removed.
Link to kit:
Orion Moto Tech 5-1 Ball Joint Separator
Fortunately, Amazon delivered this handy set a few days later and the link was swiftly removed.
Link to kit:
Orion Moto Tech 5-1 Ball Joint Separator
My L345 came without a hood pin. This part is discontinued. Anyone have a source or ideas on how to build a latch to keep the hood from flopping around when I put this thing to use?
Hole where pin secures hood...
Hole where pin secures hood...
Get a picture of one and get "Runs With Scissors" to make one. He likes weird challenges.My L345 came without a hood pin. This part is discontinued. Anyone have a source or ideas on how to build a latch to keep the hood from flopping around when I put this thing to use?
Hole where pin secures hood...
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Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
That part fit 18 models so you might have a good chance of finding one.
There are used parts available for L series at this place in California
There are used parts available for L series at this place in California