1.33 acres, heavily wooded and overgrown... Need advice on a tractor purchase!

[B737]

yes, the B2601 was 21k OTD with dual rear valves, 3rd function, 250 hours, and it was in new cosmetic and mechanical condition. Possibly geographic reasons? Who knows, but sold it at about a 20% loss, "but there are no loaders", "but there is no inventory", didnt matter, the value of something is what someone is willing to pay for it at that time. 5 dealers offered $11,000 on trade, they really didn't want it, and most of the private offers were within 20%-35% of its purchase price. Plus losses from having to sell and upsize attachments.

Just like with used cars, there are plenty of internet stories of magnificent triumphs, but what goes on in the real world is often different.

My point to Jay was its terrible advice to tell someone to "just do something you can always sell and recoup all your money", not always the case.

 

[D2Cat]

The folks who call small tractors toys are entertaining. My guess is they open a newly received package from Prime with a machete. They sure are not going to use a box knife!

 

[useraccessdenied]

I suppose you contacted Burke Equipment? When I bought, Messicks had nothing and said that they couldn't give me a date but would put me on a waiting list. I called Burke and they had two in stock, so I bought there. I don't recommend Burke for several reasons, but sometimes you do what you gotta do.

Burke Equipment and Burke Tractors are two different companies.

Yup, Burke Equipment in Delmar is who is providing me quotes and scheduling estimates.
They have been great to work with, but they can't help supply issues.

 

[Matt Ellerbee]

The folks who call small tractors toys are entertaining. My guess is they open a newly received package from Prime with a machete. They sure are not going to use a box knife!

I would absolutely love a BX to complement the MX. After seeing @JeremyBX2200 pictures and what he does, I could totally use a glorified shovel! Those little things straight work.

 

[lynnmor]

Yup, Burke Equipment in Delmar is who is providing me quotes and scheduling estimates.
They have been great to work with, but they can't help supply issues.

I used the Newark location, the service is pathetic.

 

[useraccessdenied]

I used the Newark location, the service is pathetic.

Thanks a bummer to hear. Not a lot of options here on the shore, otherwise it's Selbyville Tractor if you want to go with New Holland. Or Atlantic Tractor if you want John Deere...

 

[Fordtech86]

I would absolutely love a BX to complement the MX. After seeing @JeremyBX2200 pictures and what he does, I could totally use a glorified shovel! Those little things straight work.

Ive been thinking this as well for the past few years.

 

[minthral]

I bought my L47 from Burke Equipment in tax-free Delaware. No one else had it available... it sold before or as it got on the lot everywhere else. Prior to buying, I got put on a 'first in line' L47 waitlist in all kubota dealers near me (4 total)... those guys still haven't received one and still haven't called me 4 months later (to be fair, they estimated they would see another unit till fall or winter). I saved 5k+ in taxes and delivery fee was 900 (PM me for contact, as everyone else was charging 1500). Of course I paid MSRP (just like other dealers wanted), but end of the day price was lower due to no taxes and for whatever reason 'construction equipment' insurance was cheaper in Delaware. Prices went up again since then and I saved about 2-3k buying months ago. I'm still waiting 3-4 months for my remote valve kit that's backordered and they couldn't get, but everything else they acquired, installed, and delivered on. I asked to ensure no hydraulic leaks (kinda of a conundrum) and they delivered on that (mostly). From this experience, I'm not quite sure why NOT buy from Delaware (Burke Equipment being largest kubota dealer in that area) as opposed to local dealer, where I would have to pay 'lost forever' tax and the overall price for the equipment + insurance was higher.

 

[lynnmor]

I bought my L47 from Burke Equipment in tax-free Delaware. No one else had it available... it sold before or as it got on the lot everywhere else. Prior to buying, I got put on a 'first in line' L47 waitlist in all kubota dealers near me (4 total)... those guys still haven't received one and still haven't called me 4 months later

The equipment Burke is selling belongs to them, they pay Kubota as they go, other dealers order and Kubota is paid after the equipment is sold. Apparently Kubota builds for the hard orders first.

It is too bad that Burke has such a minimal service department staffed with few mechanics that cannot even use a tape measure to identify a faulty part that the customer is pointing to.

 

[PaulL]

It is too bad that Burke has such a minimal service department staffed with few mechanics that cannot even use a tape measure to identify a faulty part that the customer is pointing to.

I always figure your local dealer doesn't know where you bought a tractor. By the time I have mine in for work I might have bought it second hand low hours, I might have just moved to the region. Service departments are a profit centre, not a cost centre, they aren't gonna say "you didn't buy that here I don't want to service it." You might not get the priority someone who bought new from them and has an issue gets....but in my area they give priority to people who make money from their machines, residential/small block owners go to back of the queue. Which is probably as it should be.

 

[minthral]

The service dept in any car, tractor, or machinery dealer hates warranty work. They lose money on it versus paying customers because warranty has low labor rates that don't include many things they still have to do. This is even worse if you're complaining about something not broken, but 'i hear a noise' and etc. This is another reason to not buy extended warranty and instead just pay a dealer for work done. As soon as service dept knows you're a paying customer (not just wanting a freebie), they'll love you.

If you bought the tractor at that dealer, they'll feel more obligated on your warranty work due to pressure from the sales guy who sold it. Likewise, if you bought your tractor from some other dealer and bring it into your local dealer for warranty work, while they are obligated to do it, they don't want to.

That said, so far I haven't a had a significant problem with my Kubota's to require bringing into a dealer. They just work...any defects should be discovered before you accept delivery IMO, otherwise you'll be in a sticky situation. There are electronics, but tractors are mostly mechanical components which are reliable. A tractor with a blown transmission or engine is a very rare thing. In my area you see John Deere tractors lined up at dealer service depts (it's weeks before they can have a chance to work on my mower when I acquired), but kubota dealers don't have much...they're more busy putting together new tractors than fixing old ones. You're more likely to break something due to operator error or unpredictable accident than the thing just breaking by itself.

I do the maintenance myself. Unless you're an older person and/or with disabilities, you are capable of it as these tractors are designed to be easy maintenance. This will save you lots of money too...for example, my L47 would cost ~$850 to do the 50 hr service at a dealer...I bought the parts for ~$250 (at the local dealer, where they are much cheaper than online). I already have the tools, but that can be expensive if you don't, but still ~$600 saved goes a long way. By the time you load up the tractor on a trailer (assuming you got one), drop off, wait, pick, and unload etc you could have just done it yourself. To be fair on how much the dealer charges, it did take me a good 4-5 hours to do everything (an all day event for me since I started mid day), though that will go quicker the next time around because there will be less to do per service and I've done it before.

 

[useraccessdenied]

The service dept in any car, tractor, or machinery dealer hates warranty work. They lose money on it versus paying customers because warranty has low labor rates that don't include many things they still have to do. This is even worse if you're complaining about something not broken, but 'i hear a noise' and etc. This is another reason to not buy extended warranty and instead just pay a dealer for work done. As soon as service dept knows you're a paying customer (not just wanting a freebie), they'll love you.

If you bought the tractor at that dealer, they'll feel more obligated on your warranty work due to pressure from the sales guy who sold it. Likewise, if you bought your tractor from some other dealer and bring it into your local dealer for warranty work, while they are obligated to do it, they don't want to.

That said, so far I haven't a had a significant problem with my Kubota's to require bringing into a dealer. They just work...any defects should be discovered before you accept delivery IMO, otherwise you'll be in a sticky situation. There are electronics, but tractors are mostly mechanical components which are reliable. A tractor with a blown transmission or engine is a very rare thing. In my area you see John Deere tractors lined up at dealer service depts (it's weeks before they can have a chance to work on my mower when I acquired), but kubota dealers don't have much...they're more busy putting together new tractors than fixing old ones. You're more likely to break something due to operator error or unpredictable accident than the thing just breaking by itself.

I do the maintenance myself. Unless you're an older person and/or with disabilities, you are capable of it as these tractors are designed to be easy maintenance. This will save you lots of money too...for example, my L47 would cost ~$850 to do the 50 hr service at a dealer...I bought the parts for ~$250 (at the local dealer, where they are much cheaper than online). I already have the tools, but that can be expensive if you don't, but still ~$600 saved goes a long way. By the time you load up the tractor on a trailer (assuming you got one), drop off, wait, pick, and unload etc you could have just done it yourself. To be fair on how much the dealer charges, it did take me a good 4-5 hours to do everything (an all day event for me since I started mid day), though that will go quicker the next time around because there will be less to do per service and I've done it before.

Wow, seriously $850 for the 50hr service?!
Maybe I'm woefully underestimating the true cost of this tractor lol

I was told "50 hrs is just fluids and tightening bolts", but I never asked them how much it would cost.

I don't have a trailer or a truck that could pull the trailer + tractor. So I would be paying for tow service, plus tractor maintenance, over time.

 

[Elliott in GA]

I think my 50 hr service was about $150; purchasing the consumables would be about $80. I got free transportation due to a recall for the loader pin inspection - mine did not need replacement.

 

[Shekkie]

I think my 50 hr service was about $150; purchasing the consumables would be about $80. I got free transportation due to a recall for the loader pin inspection - mine did not need replacement.

That must be just the oil change and for the hydro just filters and fluid top off. That’s fine since it’s what the manual calls for but a full hydro fluid change would be quite a bit more.

 

[useraccessdenied]

I think my 50 hr service was about $150; purchasing the consumables would be about $80. I got free transportation due to a recall for the loader pin inspection - mine did not need replacement.

That isn't too bad.
I was gonna say, a 50hr service shouldn't cost that much. But, an L47 is also twice the price of a B01...

 

[minthral]

A B tractor wont be as expensive as mine. Dealer would do it for about $400 I think. I'm guessing you're saving about 250-300 doing it yourself or 100-150 in parts.

50 hour service is not just check fluids and tighten bolts... though you need to check wheel nut torque, you mainly need to change all filters + change engine oil. On a B tractor you change the oil, hst, and hydraulic filter (just like everything else).

Maintenance; Service Intervals - Kubota B2650 Operator's Manual [Page 79]

Kubota B2650 Manual Online: maintenance, Service Intervals. Service Intervals No. Items Engine Oil 1 Change Engine Oil 2 Replace Filter Transmission 3 Replace Oil Filters [Hst] Hydraulic Oil 4 Filter Replace Transmission 5 Fluid Change Front Axle 6 Change Case Oil Front Axle 7 Adjust...

www.manualslib.com

You also are supposed to do lots of checks and adjustments (brakes, belts, toe in wheels and more).

Kubota hydraulic fluid (super udt2) is expensive at $65 in 2.5 gallon jugs, but a 5 gallon bucket is $120. That tractor takes 4 gallons. Mine takes 12 gallons...that's $300+ in just fluid. However you don't need to change it often... I changed it on my last tractor (l3301) at 50 hours thinking I was doing good, but the fluid mostly looked like new and it felt like a waste of time/money (plus it didn't make the HST less whiney... probably more so). The hydraulic filters have magnets that catches metal shavings (which they were there and considered normal) and debris...even with new fluid, cylinders will eventually catch stuff and mainly the key is the filter isn't clogged. You only need to change fluid at 400 hours for most machines, so that is something many wont have to worry about for a while. Problem is when you need to change the filters at 50hrs and keep the fluid, but you can use a shopvac to prevent it from pouring out while you change the hydraulic filter (HST uses same fluid, but it is force fed from the filter removing filter doesn't gush out all your fluid). You still need to have some fluid on hand to top when changing filters because you do loose some, though the acceptable range is large so you might be okay with it a little lower (if the tractor starts with a higher level).

 

[Old_Paint]

About poison ivy...

To kill it, I use a pole saw to cut the vine about 6-8 feet from the bottom. It's preferable to leave some bottom leaves and cut it high enough where no one will accidently bump into it while walking at the tree or riding equipment. I make sure the chainsaw clippings shoot away from me as the vine has just as much if not more oil and will cause a rash. You don't want to 'shake' the tree or vine too much as that will drop oil on you as you're standing under it. Put some round up on the remaining bottom vine and leaves.

After a few weeks the leaves going up the tree will dry out and die. They will eventually fall...and yes those dead leaves will also give you a rash. I'll use my backhoe to pry remaining bottom of the vine off the tree and try to pull it out with the roots. Basically position the vine between the bucket teeth and swing boom sideways, then once it's on the ground, grab it with thumb or grapple to move it somewhere far away (preferably a burn pile).

After a few years, what will remain is a vine stuck to a tree without leaves or branches. It will stay like this for a very long time (as in 10+ years) till eventually a storm will knock it down (or pieces of it).

I've used my backhoe to reach up try grab and pull down the whole vine. Sometimes they are as large as 6 inch wide at the bottom. Trying to pull the whole vine off the tree doesn't work well because the vine shakes, spreads it's oil (even after 10 years it will still give you a rash), and possibly falls on you. The vines are some thick hardwood that doesn't seem to rot, but the fuzzy part on the outside eventually rots so the vine doesn't hold too firmly to the tree, but still the vine snakes going up the tree so it acts like a rope. Basically after messing with it, I always conclude I'm just wasting time and it's best to just leave it and let nature do it's thing.

The best way to avoid getting poison ivy rash is to take some disposable tows, get them damp, and then rub your skin. This will 'soak up' and 'friction remove' most of the oil (think of it as tractor zerk grease). The way it works is if you let the oil sit on your skin for a few days, that's when you get the rash. If the oil sits on your skin for a few (or 6 hours) and then you remove it, you don't get (much) of a rash. You don't want to 'take a quick shower' and 'use the same bath sponge' after dealing with poison ivy or just in generally walking around the woods. You can wear pants and long sleeve shirt to avoid getting the oil on your skin, however the problem with that is that clothing will have the oil even after a heavy duty wash cycle...then when you handle it (aka put it on), you'll get the oil on your skin. I got some dedicated pants for this type of thing, but end up wearing shorts in the summer as it's hot and humid.

I recall some years back, I wore an old hoodie 'work sweatshirt' that I pulled out of storage... I was doing some work not related to being the woods at all, but the new few days got poison ivy rash on my ears and other parts. I didn't know why and continued to use the same sweatshirt for a few days getting more rash, till it clicked that I must have used the sweatshirt at one point in the woods. Even though it was washed and I'm guessing sitting in storage for years, it STILL had the oil on it and caused a reaction.

Hate poison ivy and I wish there was some vaccine against it. I notice that over the years, I get less of a reaction to it as it keep getting exposed. What also helps is if you put some oily lotion or spray (sunscreen or bug) on your skin. It acts like a slight barrier to prevent the oil from sticking.

I can pull it up by the roots with my bare hands. No rash. It's never bothered me. The only time I get a little rash is if I get a scratch or cut and it gets on me. Even then, it's gone in a couple days. All my kids are the same way, no itching. My missus and her kids though are a different story. Her youngest would get a little rash, but not too much. If she just says "poison ivy" she gets a rash. Not good at all for her, considering the effects of diabetes on healing. So, I cut everything I find with leaflets three.

Persistence is the key. Cut it to kill it up in the trees and just keep whacking the down-low stuff with the string trimmer. Don't let it climb. It has to reproduce from seed and green growth, or it will assuredly die. I strip the bark off any I find that the trimmer won't cut, or just machete the vine in a couple places then pull the chunk out. It probably won't come out of the tree anyway, so no point in trying. Give it a few years, you'll find it on the ground at the bottom of the tree after the sucker roots die off and the tree sheds enough layers of bark. I've used a lotta different herbicides and wonder sprays, and nothing works as well as just old-fashioned elbow grease. Not being allergic is a bonus.

 

[Old_Paint]

Whether it's poison ivy or automotive grease, the most effective way to get rid of it is by starting with NO water. Use dish soap (Dawn works great) or waterless hand cleaner, like GoJo or a similar product. Use that with no water until the grease is well worked into the cleaner, then start adding a bit of water at a time.


You'll find the grease comes off much more thoroughly and easily than if you start with any water.

Back when I used to do a lot of mechanical work on my vehicles, I would use Vaseline Intensive Care lotion on them before I started work. Or something with a lot of collagen. That makes the dirty stuff come off a lot easier. Owning a VW Beetle (cut down to a Baja) for the better part of 35 years will make you find ways to get rid of greasy smudges. If you drive a Baja, you're gonna be fixing it, sooner than later.

 

[JeremyBX2200]

I would absolutely love a BX to complement the MX. After seeing @JeremyBX2200 pictures and what he does, I could totally use a glorified shovel! Those little things straight work.

My BX has worked well for my needs and can accomplish a lot with some creative thinking. It is true that I have done some jobs with it that I could have done quicker with a bigger tractor or by renting a purpose built machine (mini-excavator), but I enjoy the tractor work and even though it took a little longer the BX still saved my back compared to doing it a different way.

Prior to the BX I hade a riding lawn mower. I used the crap out of it for all kinds of things, but it was always way under powered, too light and less durable. I bent the crap out of it on multiple occasions doing things that my BX does with ease.

I have 5 acres. About 2.5 is lawn, the other 3 are just field that I maintain some paths through.

I would categorize it as more than a toy but less than a commercial machine.

 

[jkrubi12]

@JeremyBX2200, I am super-impressed with the tremendous work you have accomplished with your machine....Love to see someone that does 'more with less', not that your machine is any less capable than others here...You've certainly proved that! Thanks for posting!