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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #21
torch
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Default Re: Fabricating Loader Sub Frame for B7100 HST

It appears to me that the bucket ended up about a foot forward of the ideal position -- make sure you have a healthy counterweight hanging from the 3PH to avoid overloading the front axle.

Run a 1/2" pipe tap through your return T to open up the threads so the cap will sit properly.

I would be leery of removing that top brace between the columns. It probably would not be required if the columns were made of larger steel, but presumably somebody engineered that set up and determined that the bracing was needed.

That said, I think the brace could be re-worked -- either arched to provide clearance, or (as it appears to be held by a single bolt at either end) simply hinged with a bolt and lock-nut on one end while secured with a clevis pin on the other. The tiny bit of play would still keep the columns well short of deformation.
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #22
Lil Foot

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Default Re: Fabricating Loader Sub Frame for B7100 HST

I agree with everything torch said.

If it were me, I would be engineering a hinge/quick disconnect setup already. Or, alternately, I would fabricate a brace that moves the crossbar back over the dash, so the hood would open without having to disconnect anything.

This next point is personal preference, but every 2 stick FEL I have ever seen has the lift stick inboard, and the curl stick outboard. Not a big deal, unless an experienced operator is going to use it, or you are worried about learning "muscle memory" opposite of everyone else.
Or maybe you folks from down under do it opposite from us?

Finally, a word of caution about using it to back drag with the edge of the bucket.
Your loader has a single curl cylinder instead of a pair of cylinders. That means all the impact load is on one ram instead of split between two rams. Impacts, like hitting a stump or rock when back dragging with the bucket edge down, can break or pull the threads off the end of the curl ram. (a relatively common problem with inexperienced operators and single curl ram FELs)
If you keep the bucket angle shallow (not vertical) and use common sense on speed, you should never have a problem.
Great job on your fabrication & installation! Keep us updated as you fine tune the setup.
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'79 B7100DT, B219FEL, B670 Backhoe with 10" & (2) 14" Buckets, 60" Curtis front blade, GC Forks, 42" Gannon box blade, 60" 920lb roller, 4'x4' rock skid, 272lbs wheel weights, Hodge Stabilizers, small dump trailer, 2nd B670 Backhoe for parts, Piranha Toothbar
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Old 1 Week Ago   #23
taranakiguy
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Equipment: B7100-D HST
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Default Re: Fabricating Loader Sub Frame for B7100 HST

Quote:
Originally Posted by torch View Post
It appears to me that the bucket ended up about a foot forward of the ideal position -- make sure you have a healthy counterweight hanging from the 3PH to avoid overloading the front axle.

Run a 1/2" pipe tap through your return T to open up the threads so the cap will sit properly.

I would be leery of removing that top brace between the columns. It probably would not be required if the columns were made of larger steel, but presumably somebody engineered that set up and determined that the bracing was needed.

That said, I think the brace could be re-worked -- either arched to provide clearance, or (as it appears to be held by a single bolt at either end) simply hinged with a bolt and lock-nut on one end while secured with a clevis pin on the other. The tiny bit of play would still keep the columns well short of deformation.
Thanks for your advice Torch, I did some rudimentary measurements from a couple of Pics I got online to try and make sure that the bucket was in about the right position... I'd be curious if anyone had a measurement perhaps from the centre of the front hub to the tip of the bucket at ground level... Probably too late for me to do too much about it now... but at least a measurement could help me ascertain how "out" I am and what the risk is.

I haven't managed to find the right sized Tap to sort out the Oil Fill cap not seating properly, but will keep my eyes open for one... or for someone that might have one.

Have gone with the "hinged at one end option" exactly as you have suggested for that cross brace, so not too much of an issue when having to refuel.

I have rear wheel weights and a flail mower that I can attach to the tractor as a counter balance... and after my initial testing... I am definitely going to need them... spent more time lifting one of the rear wheels off the ground than lifting the bucket (Mind you I was trying to dig out a fairly large clump of Pampas Grass that was desperate to stay in the ground!)
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Old 1 Week Ago   #24
taranakiguy
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Default Re: Fabricating Loader Sub Frame for B7100 HST

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lil Foot View Post
I agree with everything torch said.

If it were me, I would be engineering a hinge/quick disconnect setup already. Or, alternately, I would fabricate a brace that moves the crossbar back over the dash, so the hood would open without having to disconnect anything.

This next point is personal preference, but every 2 stick FEL I have ever seen has the lift stick inboard, and the curl stick outboard. Not a big deal, unless an experienced operator is going to use it, or you are worried about learning "muscle memory" opposite of everyone else.
Or maybe you folks from down under do it opposite from us?

Finally, a word of caution about using it to back drag with the edge of the bucket.
Your loader has a single curl cylinder instead of a pair of cylinders. That means all the impact load is on one ram instead of split between two rams. Impacts, like hitting a stump or rock when back dragging with the bucket edge down, can break or pull the threads off the end of the curl ram. (a relatively common problem with inexperienced operators and single curl ram FELs)
If you keep the bucket angle shallow (not vertical) and use common sense on speed, you should never have a problem.
Great job on your fabrication & installation! Keep us updated as you fine tune the setup.
Thanks heaps for your advice Lil Foot, Given I have Zero experience with driving loaders... I would not have known that the Valves are reverse to normal... Our water may spiral down the plughole in the reverse direction to yours and we might drive on the opposite side of the road, but I'm guessing that loader valve position is probably universal... quite an easy fix, I can simply swap them over. Mind you, I did find that the they are currently positioned I can be raising or lowering the arms of the loader with the pad/palm of my hand while operating the tip of the bucket with my fingers... will be interesting to see how dexterous i can be with them the other way around!

Given you advice about back dragging... I have questing about the operation of the ram that drives the bucket... I found in the short period of time I was testing it out When I did try to backdrag, when the bucket cam under too much pressure (but less than I expected) the bucket rotated forward... would that indicate that there is a leak in the bucket ram?

Its interesting, because in trying to dig out the pampas grass... I was able to get the bucket slightly under the roots and put enough pressure on using the bucket that it would lift the rear wheels off the ground, so seemed that there was ample hydraulic pressure there?
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Old 1 Week Ago   #25
taranakiguy
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Default Re: Fabricating Loader Sub Frame for B7100 HST

Well It works... got a lot to learn... but fundamentally looks like it does what it should.
Now just need to figure out why I have Hydraulic Oil Leaking out of the transmission!!! not sure if it is to do with my previous episode of splitting the tractor to replace some of the PTO gears (I did replace all of the gaskets with new ones!) But wondering if I haven't torqued the Transmission back onto the rear axle housing correctly...
Or I did (Unknowingly) over fill the Transmission with hydraulic fluid when I installed the Loader... Could have this done any damage? Burst a gasket? or is there a "weep hole" somewhere to allow too much hydraulic fluid to seep out?
Any advice much appreciated.
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Old 1 Week Ago   #26
taranakiguy
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Default Re: Fabricating Loader Sub Frame for B7100 HST

Encouraged by the "Give it a go" advice that I got earlier in the thread... I decided to fabricate "Legs" for the loader so that it would stand by itself when removed from the tractor...
Just need a couple of coats of paint and should be good to go!
Please don't look too close at the welding
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Old 1 Week Ago   #27
Lil Foot

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Default Re: Fabricating Loader Sub Frame for B7100 HST

Quote:
when the bucket cam under too much pressure (but less than I expected) the bucket rotated forward... would that indicate that there is a leak in the bucket ram?
It's possible for the seals to leak in one direction and not the other, but it's highly unlikely. Probably just a geometry related thing, with the loader's geometry just having more leverage in one direction.
Quote:
that it would lift the rear wheels off the ground,
That highlights the need for a counterweight on the rear, such as a box blade, rear blade, or weight box.
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'79 B7100DT, B219FEL, B670 Backhoe with 10" & (2) 14" Buckets, 60" Curtis front blade, GC Forks, 42" Gannon box blade, 60" 920lb roller, 4'x4' rock skid, 272lbs wheel weights, Hodge Stabilizers, small dump trailer, 2nd B670 Backhoe for parts, Piranha Toothbar
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Old 1 Week Ago   #28
D2Cat

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Default Re: Fabricating Loader Sub Frame for B7100 HST

If you're going to be digging into bushes for removal, you might check out some kind of a tooth bar. The teeth help distribute the pressure of the loader at the points of the bar and makes for easier work in hard soils, etc.

You can probably build one. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YkQTxgbVft4
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Old 1 Week Ago   #29
dlsmith

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Default Re: Fabricating Loader Sub Frame for B7100 HST

Looks to me like you did a fine job building the subframe and getting it all to fit together.
Good job guy!
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Old 1 Week Ago   #30
torch
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Default Re: Fabricating Loader Sub Frame for B7100 HST

Quote:
Originally Posted by taranakiguy View Post
I'd be curious if anyone had a measurement perhaps from the centre of the front hub to the tip of the bucket at ground level... Probably too late for me to do too much about it now... but at least a measurement could help me ascertain how "out" I am and what the risk is.
When I built my loader, one design "rule of thumb" I came across was that the bucket on the ground should be approximately 1 front tire diameter in front of the tractor. EG: if the front tire is 20" in diameter, then the back of the bucket should be approximately 20" in front of the tractor.

Further out, and it's too easy to lift the rear wheels off the ground (as you discovered), plus it puts excessive weight on the front axle. Closer in and the bucket dumps it's load on the hood at full lift.

Quote:
I haven't managed to find the right sized Tap to sort out the Oil Fill cap not seating properly, but will keep my eyes open for one... or for someone that might have one.
Ask a plumber or pipefitter. 1/2" NPT is a common size for those trades.
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