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It depends on the type of wood and moisture content. Those bags are designed to hold a loose thrown face cord. The wood I have is a mix of oak, hickory, cherry and ash. Weight of a facecord of oak can vary between 1100 and 1700 pounds, per google. The wood in the bag from my original post was...

I have a 4060, traded up specifically because I wanted to be able to lift face cords in bags. Here is where I tried it out the first time. Since then, Im fairly certain my hydraulic system is set a bit on the low side... But I can still pick up a standard tote frame filled with hardwoods no issue.

I installed the Kubota kit on my 4060. Pretty straight forward.

Heres the 260 when I found it. https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/compact-running-gear.38708/#post-326511

They are EZ trail wagons. The 248 is a 2 ton, 48" wide gear and the 260 is a 2 ton, 60" wide gear. Similar to the one in your first post. https://www.e-ztrail.com/products/compact_wagons.php

I have 2 of smaller running gears. A 260 and 248. I found the 260 on marketplace for a steal and bought the 248 new. I wouldn't be without either one. The 248 is a perfect utility wagon around the yard and can easily be pulled using the Polaris 570 and the 260 for larger tasks like loading wood...

Located in Grand Ledge, MI. Asking $3200 or best offer. Its about 1 year old, with MAYBE 1 hour of use. I purchased it to chip tree service wood that is too small to fiddle with processing. But I have a friend who wants all the branch wood for his fireplace. This is in brand new condition.

I got them from Dicks Sporting Goods. Any sporting goods store would likely sell them. They are probably 4" in diameter.... Give or take. IIRC, they just pop out. I cant remember if they are plastic rivets or just push pins.

Subtract tongue weight from the trailer weight. i.e. 400# on the ball and its within spec.

DO a search for 2650 rear remotes. Rkidd and myself both did it a la carte using aftermarket parts, for the most part.

My 4060 is a 20 or 21, I dont remember. I dont have to do anything in regards to a regen other than raise the throttle if it tells me to. I have buttons on the dash, but I dont touch them. I do have the meter on display on the dash and if Im getting close to 100%, I may alter what I'm doing so...

I cant help with your decision, I mean I could but it would be based on wishful ideas... I and another member here have nothing but good things to say about Aldermans in Lennon.

This is what I made, built around a QH Trailer mover...

Unless you're trying to pull out stumps or boulders, just about any box blade will work fine. If you can get one local, dont worry about it.

Check the hydraulic lockout next to your right knee. Ive bumped mine on occasion and didnt realize it till nothing worked.

The reason for laying the larger aggregate down first is for drainage. By giving water a place to quickly sieve through the finer aggregate, you are better set up to avoid pot holes. Youll have less heave when things freeze and larger aggregate is less likely to push into soft soils below it...

I would switch the size of the material around.. Larger as the base and finish with the finer aggregate. I tend to only use 4wd when needed. Ill go in when scooping to get a bucket full and then shift out of 4wd for travel. You should be OK leaving it in, just use common sense. Dont turn sharp.

In very cold temps, diesels will blow visible moisture just like gas engines.

I paid 34 OTD at the end of 2019 for 4060 rops, loader, bucket, pallet forks, r4 tires, 3 remote kit that I installed and a TnT that I also installed.

I did have chains, and the reason I was able to add spacers and still use the MMM was because I had R4 rims. That wasn't intentional, I simply opted to swap the R4 tires with turfs.