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Located in Grand Ledge, MI. Asking $3200 or best offer. Its about 1 year old, with MAYBE 1 hour of use. I purchased it to chip tree service wood that is too small to fiddle with processing. But I have a friend who wants all the branch wood for his fireplace. This is in brand new condition.

I got them from Dicks Sporting Goods. Any sporting goods store would likely sell them. They are probably 4" in diameter.... Give or take. IIRC, they just pop out. I cant remember if they are plastic rivets or just push pins.

Subtract tongue weight from the trailer weight. i.e. 400# on the ball and its within spec.

DO a search for 2650 rear remotes. Rkidd and myself both did it a la carte using aftermarket parts, for the most part.

My 4060 is a 20 or 21, I dont remember. I dont have to do anything in regards to a regen other than raise the throttle if it tells me to. I have buttons on the dash, but I dont touch them. I do have the meter on display on the dash and if Im getting close to 100%, I may alter what I'm doing so...

I cant help with your decision, I mean I could but it would be based on wishful ideas... I and another member here have nothing but good things to say about Aldermans in Lennon.

This is what I made, built around a QH Trailer mover...

Unless you're trying to pull out stumps or boulders, just about any box blade will work fine. If you can get one local, dont worry about it.

Check the hydraulic lockout next to your right knee. Ive bumped mine on occasion and didnt realize it till nothing worked.

The reason for laying the larger aggregate down first is for drainage. By giving water a place to quickly sieve through the finer aggregate, you are better set up to avoid pot holes. Youll have less heave when things freeze and larger aggregate is less likely to push into soft soils below it...

I would switch the size of the material around.. Larger as the base and finish with the finer aggregate. I tend to only use 4wd when needed. Ill go in when scooping to get a bucket full and then shift out of 4wd for travel. You should be OK leaving it in, just use common sense. Dont turn sharp.

In very cold temps, diesels will blow visible moisture just like gas engines.

I paid 34 OTD at the end of 2019 for 4060 rops, loader, bucket, pallet forks, r4 tires, 3 remote kit that I installed and a TnT that I also installed.

I did have chains, and the reason I was able to add spacers and still use the MMM was because I had R4 rims. That wasn't intentional, I simply opted to swap the R4 tires with turfs.

Looks like a place to put a wrench.....

Im going on 4 months for a Landscape Rake.

If youre feeding larger diameter stuff, cut the feed end at an angle so the feed roller can ride up a ramp rather than trying to immediately go over the full diameter.

Rotate the blade and pull it backwards. You can also shorten the top link in order to allow the cutting edge to better glide over the surface. I have a gravel drive and plow like this until it freezes, then I spin the blade back around and use it normally.

In this picture.... You see the front horizontal bar with round bar tacked on.. Thats the bar that goes to valve 1. Directly behind the vertical round linkage that mostly in focus, you can make out the vertical flat linkage that goes up to the handle. This linkage obviously isnt lined up...

Mine was a new kit, too. Good point on the valve, hadn't thought about that.