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Looks like a place to put a wrench.....

Im going on 4 months for a Landscape Rake.

If youre feeding larger diameter stuff, cut the feed end at an angle so the feed roller can ride up a ramp rather than trying to immediately go over the full diameter.

Rotate the blade and pull it backwards. You can also shorten the top link in order to allow the cutting edge to better glide over the surface. I have a gravel drive and plow like this until it freezes, then I spin the blade back around and use it normally.

In this picture.... You see the front horizontal bar with round bar tacked on.. Thats the bar that goes to valve 1. Directly behind the vertical round linkage that mostly in focus, you can make out the vertical flat linkage that goes up to the handle. This linkage obviously isnt lined up...

Mine was a new kit, too. Good point on the valve, hadn't thought about that.

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/l4060-remote-lever-routing.49494/#post-439668 Hard to explain, when I get out to the garage, Ill get you the part number for the updated linkage. I never actually installed it because my modified linkage has been working just fine.

Im trying to find my posts here.... Give me a sec.

If you're adding rear remotes to the 4060, you wont need to worry about PB. Just use the remotes. Also, make sure they are getting you the updated linkage if you're adding 3 remotes.

Sooo.... With the top hook on my QH left in the upper holes, I backed up to my counter weight, moved the pin to the upper hole and it was a no go. Which means moving the top pin on the rest of my implements would also be a no go. I replaced the bolts for the top hook with pins and will move...

I estimate the one I made is right around 1000 pounds.

So it showed up today. Daughter and I were right in the middle of brakes on the wife's car, so I didn't get started until late. Its mostly assembled. Just need to fit the PTO shaft, add fluid and then give it a good once over. Its pretty stout, I have no doubts it will fulfill my needs. My...

You dont need a "level" spot. You just need to level it in relation to the tractor. Park the tractor where ever and check level across the front of the frame somewhere. Then match the bubble reading to the box blade.

Same here... Anything over 3" or so is firewood. I have a buddy that clears buckthorn for his city parks and having the wider opening will make processing that stuff down much easier. He normally piles and when the piles get large enough, rents a chipper. Now he can rent me.

Shipping notification today. That was quicker than the 7-10 days the guy told me when I called.

I do look forward to its arrival. Been down after knee surgery for a week and I'm getting very restless. Ive got a pile of apple branches waiting for it, as well as a pile of firewood castoffs....

I got on their wait list a few weeks back for a WM 8H. Ive been going back and forth between the Woodland Mills and the WoodMaxx for about a month or so. I like the features and build on the WoodMaxx more than the Woodland Mills so its on the way. In addition to being excited about not having...

You should be able to slide them together so they are touching. So whatever the width of the actual forks are. Just be careful if you do this with them centered, there is a notch in the lower portion that facilitates the forks removal.

Im running one float valve connected to my top link specifically to float either the land plane, box blade or rake with gauge wheels.

FF creeping properties would be ideal in this situation... If I still had the tractor...... The PB, and Im not advocating the PB being a long term solution, did free it up almost immediately. Had I kept the 2650, I would have drilled and tapped the offending linkage so it could be greased.