Pull type box Scraper

[bulldog_shotgun]

Decided we needed a pull type box scraper, to level the drive way.
Bought a 4.5' King Kutter brand BB for my B2150.
Brought it in the shop and started Welding up a tongue for it.
The tongue will be detachable and the wheels won't be, but they will raise up enough not to be in the way to continue to use it as a BB

 

[lsmurphy]

Why?............

 

[skeets]

Ahh,,,not to sound to stupid,, but what are you going to drag this with?? You have a tractor with a 3 pt,yes?

 

[bulldog_shotgun]

Yes but a 3pt BB just moves the dips and high spots. the long tongue will allow the tractor to go over bumps and through dips without changing the grading height of the blade. i have used an 18ft pull type behind a large JD for grading in the past. it is amazing how level they can get a piece of ground in one pass. i built a 3pt 2" reciever awhile back and will actually pull it with that. so i can adjust tongue height as well for finer control.

 

[lsmurphy]

I tilt my box back to let the rear blade 'run-out' and the front blade to cut the high spots.

 

[lsmurphy]

Ideal-

 

[DanDan]

Good looking welds.
I never thought about offsetting the blade behind like you are doing; that's clever.
I always thought the perfect road leveling device would be a mid-mount blade.

 

[MagKarl]

How does the tongue frame fit over the lower pins on the box blade? I can't tell from the pics.

 

[bosshogg]

Good looking welds.
I never thought about offsetting the blade behind like you are doing; that's clever.
I always thought the perfect road leveling device would be a mid-mount blade.

If you have an extremely long wheelbase as found on road graders you would be correct. Road graders also have the advantage of slight leveling adjustments on the move.

 

[gpreuss]

This looks to be a great idea to me. You'll probably be adding weight to the blade?

 

[TripleR]

Looks really nice, we use one of these though not a LP, in addition to our HR3584 as my fabrication skills are somewhat lacking; works great.

http://www.landpride.com/products/77/bb45-series-drag-scrapers

 

[Eric McCarthy]

If you have an extremely long wheelbase as found on road graders you would be correct. Road graders also have the advantage of slight leveling adjustments on the move.

Not true. Grouser Products makes them for medium size tractors to larger ones. And with a quick search on Google you can see some blade put on lawn mowers.

http://www.grouser.com/belly_blades.php

 

[bulldog_shotgun]

Good looking welds.
I never thought about offsetting the blade behind like you are doing; that's clever.
I always thought the perfect road leveling device would be a mid-mount blade.

Thanks, there not perfect, but there better than the welds on this BB. i think drunk Ivan musta welded it on his first day on the job, heres a couple comparison pics. I passed a 2F GMAW test for a job interview a few years ago. my welds would look better with better prep since i'm welding galvanized here, but i was being lazy.

How does the tongue frame fit over the lower pins on the box blade? I can't tell from the pics.

I attached a pic, there is a 3/4 plate with a 7/8"'s notch cut in it. Then there are 1/4" plates with a notch cut in them swivel up and pin on.

This looks to be a great idea to me. You'll probably be adding weight to the blade?

Thinking about welding a bracket to hang 75lb IH suitcase weights on the back. may also weld a box up in the tongue to throw big rocks it digs up into.

Not true. Grouser Products makes them for medium size tractors to larger ones. And with a quick search on Google you can see some blade put on lawn mowers.

http://www.grouser.com/belly_blades.php

always had it in my mind to build a MM blade. my father had one for his JD 317 mower when was a kid. it was amazing how well it cut through a crust. i may get around to it some day.

 

[skeets]

Well when you get it finished I sure would like to see some before and after pics of what ever your trying to level

 

[Eric McCarthy]

I'd hate to burst ya bubble but this idea just hit me like a ton of bricks! You could have saved alot of time, money and hassle by not hooking up the top link of the 3pt and letting the box flex and bend up and down with the contour of the ground. I do believe you'd get the same results.

 

[maj_primate]

Seems to me, that without that fixed point on top, the box would be bouncimg all over the place, the front of the box would just pivot down and you would lose control over the attack angle of the blade.

 

[gpreuss]

I still love the idea! Pictures!! I was trying to do the same thing with my rear blade gauge wheel. I might revisit it with your long tongue arrangement. It should work minor miracles!

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8889

 

[bulldog_shotgun]

I got some more work done tonight. finished the hitch, and started on the wheels.

there will be one cylinder to raise and lower both wheels together, and a seperate cylinder to just raise and lower the left wheel an additional 3" each way, for making a crown etc.

waiting on my spindles and wheels now.

 

[Lil Foot]

Nice work, nice welds. Looking forward to seeing it finished & in action.

 

[hodge]

I got some more work done tonight. finished the hitch, and started on the wheels.

there will be one cylinder to raise and lower both wheels together, and a seperate cylinder to just raise and lower the left wheel an additional 3" each way, for making a crown etc.

waiting on my spindles and wheels now.

I agree withLil Foot- nice looking work!