Possible clutch adjustment needed?

D2Cat

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Lifetime Member

Equipment
L305DT, B7100HST, TG1860, TG1860D, L4240
Mar 27, 2014
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40 miles south of Kansas City
On that model it's just the spin on filter no screens.
One alternative to Kubota UDT that I've used for many years is Mystik JT-5.
(CAUTION OPINION) I FEEL it's better than UDT and almost as good as SUDT.
I have a GST (glide shift with a hydraulic clutch pack) and they are very picky on fluid and I have had great success with it!
Just saw Mystik JT-5, $90 for 5gal bucket.
 

L5450 Fan

New member

Equipment
1993 L5450
May 23, 2023
16
2
3
Farmington
On that model it's just the spin on filter no screens.
One alternative to Kubota UDT that I've used for many years is Mystik JT-5.
(CAUTION OPINION) I FEEL it's better than UDT and almost as good as SUDT.
I have a GST (glide shift with a hydraulic clutch pack) and they are very picky on fluid and I have had great success with it!
Hello, I’ve been away taking care of life but I’m home again and trying to progress down this path. Looking further at the hydraulic circuits or oil… when I park the tractor with an implement hooked to the the 3 point and leave it in the raised position.(off the ground completely) it will leak down quickly. If I’m “bypassing” or something for lack of better word maybe the fluid isn’t getting to where it needs to be for the clutches or similar thought process?? I’m worried that if both clutches won’t react to linkage adjustments I might be headed for a in-depth repair being both costly and time consuming thus requiring me to juggle my other tractors into using them differently than I do now.. if so, it is what it is, I’d just like to exhaust as many troubleshooting options as practical. Thank you again for your time
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Jun 9, 2013
28,286
4,852
113
Sandpoint, ID
Hello, I’ve been away taking care of life but I’m home again and trying to progress down this path. Looking further at the hydraulic circuits or oil… when I park the tractor with an implement hooked to the the 3 point and leave it in the raised position.(off the ground completely) it will leak down quickly. If I’m “bypassing” or something for lack of better word maybe the fluid isn’t getting to where it needs to be for the clutches or similar thought process?? I’m worried that if both clutches won’t react to linkage adjustments I might be headed for a in-depth repair being both costly and time consuming thus requiring me to juggle my other tractors into using them differently than I do now.. if so, it is what it is, I’d just like to exhaust as many troubleshooting options as practical. Thank you again for your time
There is no correlation to the three point cylinder leaking down and the hydraulic travel clutch.
One does not have any effect on the other.

The PTO is not hydraulic it's mechanical, so if linkage adjustment is not working to fix the grinding then you will need to get into it and replace it.

The hydraulic clutches very very rarely need worked on, and if they do, have a thick wallet handy!
Now the clutch valve or the shuttle valve do relate to the hydraulic travel clutch, you will have to get into reading the WSM to figure out how to test and repair whatever it is that is making the clutch hang, most likely leaking seals in the travel clutch valve.
This is not a repair for the faint at heart, it requires the valve to be precisely rebuild to get it to function properly.
 

L5450 Fan

New member

Equipment
1993 L5450
May 23, 2023
16
2
3
Farmington
There is no correlation to the three point cylinder leaking down and the hydraulic travel clutch.
One does not have any effect on the other.

The PTO is not hydraulic it's mechanical, so if linkage adjustment is not working to fix the grinding then you will need to get into it and replace it.

The hydraulic clutches very very rarely need worked on, and if they do, have a thick wallet handy!
Now the clutch valve or the shuttle valve do relate to the hydraulic travel clutch, you will have to get into reading the WSM to figure out how to test and repair whatever it is that is making the clutch hang, most likely leaking seals in the travel clutch valve.
This is not a repair for the faint at heart, it requires the valve to be precisely rebuild to get it to function properly.
I’ll have more time in the coming days to observe and fiddle based on your advice. I’ll follow up after if explored some things, I’ve got a few thoughts from your info and advice. Thanks, I’ll be back
 

L5450 Fan

New member

Equipment
1993 L5450
May 23, 2023
16
2
3
Farmington
I’ll have more time in the coming days to observe and fiddle based on your advice. I’ll follow up after if explored some things, I’ve got a few thoughts from your info and advice. Thanks, I’ll be back
Ok, so I’ve got the PTO just about fixed/adjusted to where it almost doesn’t grind at all, and if you go pretty slow when engaging it , it doesn’t grind. Very happy about that. Acting on the information in these posts I had a much better idea of what was supposed to be happening and wasn’t. As far as the PTO clutch the linkage which I had previously adjusted (unsuccessfully ) wasn’t as much the issue as the lever it connected to that goes into the side of the transmission mid area. That arm was very sloppy where the 2 linkage’s connected. This tractor is very “used” and probably had a million adjustments over time by plenty of people. Someone had tried to fix a sloppy connection point with a plastic piece.. it looks like a milk jug cap(?) which might have worked along the way but not sure and certainly wasn’t long term or right. I made a brass “bushing” to fit and it’s much more solid now with basically no sloppy movement. I could, and may, keep adjusting it but it works much better now.
The travel clutch is still a little “short on linkage travel” but I discovered that if I put the gear shift into a rearward gear, 1 or 3, then moved it into 2 or 4 it hardly grinds. I know it’s not fixed, but until I do more it’ll be better than not doing anything different.
I was able to finish my mowing for a few months so I’ve got a little time to do a few things. I’m going to clean, pressure wash etc the whole thing and dive into more adjustments. I just did the fuel injection pump on my John Deere 5500 and it runs much better so I’m going to do this one as well. I’m probably going to do the hydraulic fluid as previously mentioned as it seems like it’s time. I’m attaching a pic if someone can tell me if there is only one point to put hydraulic oil into this tractor.
I've marked the pic with 3 arrows, is the red arrow the only spot to add the almost 12 gal hydraulic fluid? The yellow is my dipstick and is the blue one where a hydraulic line might go if you have a loader or backhoe?? Thanks again
4A2F4A6A-B364-4338-B1A7-BB21F85D20A6.jpeg